DRIFT Starion info thread - Calling all DRIFT Starions

niss720 · Post by **niss720** » Fri Jun 01, 2012 7:20 pm

The Starion handbrake is a joke, none of mine do anything. Talk to Hugh about modding the brakes to get more leverage on the brake calipers to improve the braking strength. I have considered this option but like enthused I'm fitting a hydro with the standard lever. Again it's worth the small price why do everythng twice just do it right the first time. Cost me 150 for everything just have to install it. I will post up when I get around to it.

As I mentioned earlier I also tried the 2 diff method but its about an hour job and its a pain swapping the diff on jack stands. I was going to put my open center in since the last prac but the torque tube spline is too worn and i don't want to ruin my good diff, so maybe get a torque tube too.

Ohh and remember you will probably have to swap the oil every time too take out and install the diff so add that to your cost list.

enthuzed · Post by **enthuzed** » Sat Jun 02, 2012 12:08 am

Yes you will have to swap your oil, LSD oil for the slippery is different to a standard diff. I wouldn't use the oil from one unit in another either.

enthuzed · Post by **enthuzed** » Sat Jun 02, 2012 12:13 am

Niss720, fitting the hydraulic handbrake is so worth it. One tip for you, get enough line to run down to the T-block that sits on the underside of the rear seat, run a new line from there up to the handbrake then the other line back to the block. If you ever have trouble with the hydraulic setup you can just refit the original line back into the block and just rebleed the rear brakes.

Hope that makes sense, if not I'll draw you a picture.

niss720 · Post by **niss720** » Sat Jun 02, 2012 12:52 am

How did you connect it enthused? I was thinking about running a new line from the hydro to the rear splitter block and either using standard line to feed the hydro or cutting it and joining it so I can easily re connect it.

Don't suppose you have any photos of the lever set up

enthuzed · Post by **enthuzed** » Sun Jun 03, 2012 2:36 am

Yeah, I'll get some photos for you.

MitsuMadness · Post by **MitsuMadness** » Sun Jun 03, 2012 2:38 pm

Yeh the Starion handbrake is only good if you have BOTH cables working properly and free of any binding up. Most Starions now have at least one seized or stuffed cable, in which case it's almost useless for drift. But I can confirm (from my Widey) that if both cables are good, it works REALLY nice, I can comfortably do a 180 handbrake turn in that in a one lane one way street!

And as niss720 mentioned, I also sometimes weld reinforcement and an upward angled longer extension onto the handbrake lever. Gives you more leverage, and makes it faster to get to near the gear lever, like those rally handbrakes. But yes again requires the rare situation of BOTH cables being totally free, and some good (but not too hard) rear rake pads.

enthuzed · Post by **enthuzed** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 2:33 am

Alright, pics!

The complete assembly including the lines fit under the standard centre console. It is mounted towards the drivers side so I could still use some of the space under the armrest. I actually cut down the black cardboard box to fit as well.

Also, don't get confused by the fuel/boot release, I moved it there because the car has a rollcage and there was nowhere better to mount it.
Yes, it's on the outside of the console but I possibly could have mounted that inside instead.

Aerial view:

Another view, note notch for the wiring plug:

Closeup with clevis pin out, you can see the lug I welded to the handbrake shaft. The cylinder's pushrod sits level when the handbrake is down and the whatsamacallit sits almost on the handbrake shaft and rises up when rotated. Not much movement is required for it to work because I've adjusted it so by the time the first rachet of the cable is reached the rear wheels are locking up:

I didn't take a pic with the centre console in place, yell out if you want a couple...

enthuzed · Post by **enthuzed** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 2:44 am

Some other points:
The pushrod doesn't move much from the horizontal (which you don't want because you are wasting movement in the vertical plane instead).
Whilst I could have cut down the pushrod, I didn't want to so if I ever needed to replace the slave cylinder and pushrod unit, I could buy it off-the-shelf and fit it without mods.
I also used the original handbrake mounting bolts as the unit uses 3mm steel from a section of RHS, but I have reinforced the back of it (or did I only do that to the assembly in my JB??)

enthuzed · Post by **enthuzed** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 3:03 am

One more pic, the setup under the car:

The thinking behind this was to make it easy to remove and reinstate to original if required. So by adding a joiner right at the T-block, the original line goes into the new joiner, then run your new line up to the cylinder. The return line from the cylinder then goes back into the T-block. All you've done in essence is intercept the rear line and added the cylinder in the middle.

The new 3/16" lines are best run up the trans tunnel with the other lines, and can then be cable/zip tied to those other lines.

Get the brake place to do a couple of the flares for you, saves you doing half of the flares. And get a double flare adapter for 3/16 line because no doubt you'll need at least one double flare somewhere in the system.
If they're not done properly you'll have weeping or leaking setup which will annoy you/won't work very well or both.

thrash · Post by **thrash** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 10:56 am

looks like you should be selling a kit Frank ;)

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 9:17 pm

brilliant setup frank :beer

niss720 · Post by **niss720** » Mon Jun 04, 2012 11:51 pm

Thanks for the pics, it looks very similar to what I had in my head but keeping the standard line sounds like a good idea seeing as mine will see the street and the boys in blue don't like anything that looks at all modified, but I haven't had much trouble yet (touch wood )

Does anyone know if there is a way to make hydros legal? Ie if we keep the standard cables, or is the ability to lock the rear wheels completely outrageous in the eyes of the law
Also have you had any trouble with the car 'running away' I may have to have a detatchable pushrod so I can still use the cable brakes as I've heard hydros can lose pressure over time and the car roll into objects. I usually leave it in gear any way so this shouldn't be an issue

enthuzed · Post by **enthuzed** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 1:29 am

Some of these cars run away with the standard cable handbrakes, believe me I had my white car roll away about 6 times in 8 years, it had minor altercations with two cars, another time it bounced a gutter and touched a tree. Another time it rolled and sat perched on a crossover, stopping metres short of a massive brick letterbox. Each time the situation could have been much much worse. It used to creep and creak away, I had to pull the handbrake on supertight. And that was with the hydraulic system in place too.
Maybe it was just this car, I don't know.

My thoughts are that two braking systems will hold the car better than one. Think about this, if you have your foot jammed on the brake with the engine off, does the car go anywhere? Well, it's sort of like that with the handbrake on as well...sort of...

OLD FART · Post by **OLD FART** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 5:37 am

Frank you need to turn the front wheels in towards the kerb so it can't roll too far.

MitsuMadness · Post by **MitsuMadness** » Tue Jun 05, 2012 8:44 am

Also, in case anyone didn't notice in the photos, Frank's original cable handbrake is still connected, so it works as well as the hydraulic unit. That does get around the issue of the hydraulics losing pressure.

Austarion

DRIFT Starion info thread - Calling all DRIFT Starions

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