FCD Grafted onto Starion ECU

[GormzZ]

yeah what bruzman said ^ i am very keen on a "how to" on this.. as the relevant information i've researched i get a bit confused with different peoples method of doing it and explaining. Really just want that airbox completely gone and that plastic intake for some shiny bits and a more productive pod filter which will give me a bit more noise and hopefully a power increase, can also create up a heat shield later on or something to hold it in place so its not defectable.. but for meantime just want a less restrictive sensor to be installed so when i do the swap for better gear my car will run alot better. :).

[Bruzman]

I'll be selling my starion soon by the way.

I doubt I'd have any money to buy your Starion, but I am still interested in hearing about it!

Since I am following some of your ideas and teachings;
What kind of power is has your Starion got?
What boost are you running to get that power?
I already know you run 12.8:1 air-to-fuel ratio :P

And also, what are you hoping to get for your Starion? :beer

[thrash]

I'll be selling my starion soon by the way.

why?!?!?

[vr4gone]

I chose the 3" MAF cause it's easier to adapt to your IC piping. I also run it after the turbo so there is no restriction to the turbo inlet accept for the K&N pod




Running a translator and a LS1 AFM is very common with DSM 1G tuners in USA. I adapted the idea from running one on my vr4. The difference between the starion and the vr4 is that it's plug & play with the vr4. With the starion I hard wired the AFM loom with the translator loom. You get a full instruction when you buy the translator. You can download a pdf of the manual. Just google 1G MAF translator instruction manual.

How to wire in!
** Use your BRAIN when doing this!!**

* Cut the male plug off the starion AFM leaving enough loom
to splice onto your translator loom.
* Throw the old starion AFM over your neighbors fence
* Get your LS1 MAF and put it either infront of your turbo
or in between your throttle body and intercooler
(I have mine on the outlet side of my IC)
* Cut the plug off your MAF loom. (not the 3 wire plug that
connects to your LS1 MAF!!)
* run your loom how you want through the fire wall.
* Take 4 pieces of H/S and slide them onto your wires
* Solder wires together in this order
RED - RED
BLACK - GREEN/BLACK
BLUE - GREEN/RED
BROWN - GREEN/WHITE
* Slide H/S over soldered joins and shrink them
* Wrap loom in electrical conduit or insulation tape (Nitto is best tape)
* Plug it all together and you should be right to go.



There is a trouble shoot in your manual if you have problems.
You must run a wide band O2 when tuning with the controller other wise you're just guessing your fuel mixtures and you'll either over fuel your engine and glaze the bores or lean the engine out and smash a ring land with detonation.
I assume no responsibility for any damage you may do to your car through this modification .DO it at your own risk. It's very easy to kill your engine by F%#$&*G around with your fuel mixtures.


I've got the car running how I like it now and the next plan was to paint it but I don't have the time any more. I'd like to get $2500 for it.

[GormzZ]

regarding that ls1 mas you were talking about sucka.. is it hard to setup with a aftermarket intake with pod filter? whats required, a new ecu or can it be wired up to the old ecu and act like the old one did.. just not as restrictive? pm the answer if you want.

Ill be starting this in the next couple of weeks so Ill do a how to thread if you like

You ready for that how to thread? My intake is splitting and i can't raise my boost due to the restrictive intake and i think my sensor is dead.. so i need to upgrade it asap.

[sucka]

regarding that ls1 mas you were talking about sucka.. is it hard to setup with a aftermarket intake with pod filter? whats required, a new ecu or can it be wired up to the old ecu and act like the old one did.. just not as restrictive? pm the answer if you want.

Ill be starting this in the next couple of weeks so Ill do a how to thread if you like

You ready for that how to thread? My intake is splitting and i can't raise my boost due to the restrictive intake and i think my sensor is dead.. so i need to upgrade it asap.

Lol okay yeah it sounds like Id better get onto that. I have the 3.5 maf in my car with the maf translator and it is working well. Wil see if I can get started later tonight

[enthuzed]

Digging this thread up again.

Did vr4gone have proper success with this?
Anyone else tried this and came up a winner?
We're talking essentially a standard car with the stock AFM, MAP and fuel pump with no pinging.

I'm hitting 9.5 pounds before boost cut which is stock except for opening up the stock airbox to three times the volume, an EVO 3 turbo and smallish intercooler with 2" piping.

I have a boost tap which I could just bleed off the excess pressure but I don't know whether as the boost increases there will be enough fuel to prevent lean conditions.

Hitting boost cut means cutting fuel, so that in itself would be causing the same conditions...unless it's cutting the spark as well.

I want to get this right by the weekend, and have to decide whether this Jaycar kit will do the job.

[ProZac]

Standard setup, but with a completely different AFM/MAF. The AFM you install when using one of these translators is GM one, which outputs a 0-5v signal, unlike our stock AFM's, which output a frequency. The GM ones are also very compact, and have a simple 3" diameter flange one either end, making install super easy. The translator takes the 0-5v signal from the GM AFM, and converts it to a frequency readable by the factory ECU. You get VERY coarse tuneability with the translators... I think they have adjustability for low, medium, and high air-flow rates. Still, any tuneability is better than the none we currently have.

I'd also be dubious as to how well the fuel pump would handle fuelling demands increased much over stock...

If you're going to have a play with one of these you simply MUST install a decent wide-band o2 sensor and warning gauge. You'll have no idea of how your changes are actually effecting things unless you can see the data. Get a nice innovate one (cheap these days, especially with the aussie dollar), and use the datalogging features.

As to disabling your over-boost cut, plenty of the US crowd have just installed a 4.7V zener diode between the MAP output and ground. This clamps the output to a maximum of 4.7V by shunting current directly to ground above this level. Personally, I'd pop in a 1k resistor too, for current limiting to protect the MAP sensor output side. I don't know what the IC on the jay-car kit does, might have some extra functionality for some reason. This is the route I'll be going shortly.

Go do it and report back, I want to hear how you get on :)