Bonnet Strut install
Bonnet Strut install
Well, I bought a set of bonnet struts, figured I'd have a crack at putting them on.
Tools required :-
Tape measure and ruler
Drill, 4mm and 8mm bits
Punch (I used a press punch)
13 and 14mm spanners
6mm allen key
The kit with all the bits and pieces.
Read the instructions....I measured 222mm (8.75") as per instructions. You will need to take off the nut on the strut top to give your drill a bit more clearance.
Measure and punch a spot on the inner guard. Make the punch mark about 11mm down, this allows the nut to fit properly
First drill 3 or 4mm hole. Note: put some tape along the join between the guard and strut top, this stops the swarf from falling in the crack.
Then drill 8mm hole.
Attach bottom mount. RTFM...put both washers on the strut side, nothing on the square nut side. Use 13mm on strut side, 14mm on square nut (this stops the nut spinning and possibly digging a hole if it moves around)
Undo the bonnet bolts, I undid one at a time so I didn't have to hold up the bonnet
Attach bracket using the new allen key head bolts and spring washer
Bottom mount done
Do up the top mount using 13mm spanner. You will need to support the bonnet with your head or shoulder (depending how tall you are) as you do to maneuvre it into place. RTFM...fit both spring washers.
Top mount done
Adjust the bonnet to ensure it doesn't catch and aligns as it should.
Finished...no more need for the stick.
OK...things I noticed. There is no adjustment in the brackets so if you move the bonnet around to fit it, the bracket will move too. I found my bonnet needed to be pulled fully up, this makes the strut bottom out slightly when closing the bonnet . I'm going to elongate the mount hole in the guard to hopefully fix this. Another solution would be when drilling the holes, only measure say 218mm from point shown in the instructions. Check where your bonnet is mounted on the hinges, if it is right up, move the hole, if right down, leave it. Even if you move the mount hole back, the only difference it will make is the bonnet will not sit as high as with the stick. The bonnet sits slightly lower with the struts anyway.
The bonnet is fairly easy to lower and pops up pretty easily when you open it.
All in all, good product, great idea and I'm pretty happy.
Tools required :-
Tape measure and ruler
Drill, 4mm and 8mm bits
Punch (I used a press punch)
13 and 14mm spanners
6mm allen key
The kit with all the bits and pieces.
Read the instructions....I measured 222mm (8.75") as per instructions. You will need to take off the nut on the strut top to give your drill a bit more clearance.
Measure and punch a spot on the inner guard. Make the punch mark about 11mm down, this allows the nut to fit properly
First drill 3 or 4mm hole. Note: put some tape along the join between the guard and strut top, this stops the swarf from falling in the crack.
Then drill 8mm hole.
Attach bottom mount. RTFM...put both washers on the strut side, nothing on the square nut side. Use 13mm on strut side, 14mm on square nut (this stops the nut spinning and possibly digging a hole if it moves around)
Undo the bonnet bolts, I undid one at a time so I didn't have to hold up the bonnet
Attach bracket using the new allen key head bolts and spring washer
Bottom mount done
Do up the top mount using 13mm spanner. You will need to support the bonnet with your head or shoulder (depending how tall you are) as you do to maneuvre it into place. RTFM...fit both spring washers.
Top mount done
Adjust the bonnet to ensure it doesn't catch and aligns as it should.
Finished...no more need for the stick.
OK...things I noticed. There is no adjustment in the brackets so if you move the bonnet around to fit it, the bracket will move too. I found my bonnet needed to be pulled fully up, this makes the strut bottom out slightly when closing the bonnet . I'm going to elongate the mount hole in the guard to hopefully fix this. Another solution would be when drilling the holes, only measure say 218mm from point shown in the instructions. Check where your bonnet is mounted on the hinges, if it is right up, move the hole, if right down, leave it. Even if you move the mount hole back, the only difference it will make is the bonnet will not sit as high as with the stick. The bonnet sits slightly lower with the struts anyway.
The bonnet is fairly easy to lower and pops up pretty easily when you open it.
All in all, good product, great idea and I'm pretty happy.
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- Woodwide
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- perrinsohc
- Mine is bigger than yours
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- I like starions
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Nice write up Alan!!
We just completed Rev2 of our hoodstrut brackets and they're ready to ship:
Thanks,
Tim
We just completed Rev2 of our hoodstrut brackets and they're ready to ship:
Thanks,
Tim
Tim
http://www.themotocam.com/products/starquest
HoodStrut Kits, Smoked Foglight Covers, LED Tail Light Kit, Radio Bezel, Air Diversion Panel, Chin Spoilers
http://www.themotocam.com/products/starquest
HoodStrut Kits, Smoked Foglight Covers, LED Tail Light Kit, Radio Bezel, Air Diversion Panel, Chin Spoilers
-
- I like starions
- Posts: 109
- Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2012 8:35 pm
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- Contact:
Oval mounting holes you say??
Tim
http://www.themotocam.com/products/starquest
HoodStrut Kits, Smoked Foglight Covers, LED Tail Light Kit, Radio Bezel, Air Diversion Panel, Chin Spoilers
http://www.themotocam.com/products/starquest
HoodStrut Kits, Smoked Foglight Covers, LED Tail Light Kit, Radio Bezel, Air Diversion Panel, Chin Spoilers
-
- Woodwide
- Posts: 3133
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 6:24 pm
- Location: Gold Coast
- Contact:
- perrinsohc
- Mine is bigger than yours
- Posts: 315
- Joined: Sat Mar 20, 2010 4:53 pm
- Location: Sydney/Christchurch
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