Wheel Alignment Settings
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- my mangina paid for my staz
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Wheel Alignment Settings
I going in for a wheel alignment soon and I would like to know what settings you are running. In particular what camber, caster and toe at the front and what toe at the rear as I only have the factory adjustment.
-1.5 camber
1mm overall toe out (0.5mm each side)
whatever stock castor is
That's on a GJ Scorpion at stock height with spun strut tops, once I drop it 4" or so I expect it'll be at ~-3deg camber :P
1mm overall toe out (0.5mm each side)
whatever stock castor is
That's on a GJ Scorpion at stock height with spun strut tops, once I drop it 4" or so I expect it'll be at ~-3deg camber :P
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Camber front= -4 Degrees
Camber rear= -1.5 degrees
Caster front= Maximum possible Positive caster, without the wheel hitting the front of the wheel arch.
Front Toe = 2mm toe in
These settings could be considered a little extreme for a road car. So these are the factory settings.
Camber front =0
Camber rear =0
Caster front =5 1/3 degrees Positive
Front Toe= 2mm toe in
Rear Toe= 0
Camber rear= -1.5 degrees
Caster front= Maximum possible Positive caster, without the wheel hitting the front of the wheel arch.
Front Toe = 2mm toe in
These settings could be considered a little extreme for a road car. So these are the factory settings.
Camber front =0
Camber rear =0
Caster front =5 1/3 degrees Positive
Front Toe= 2mm toe in
Rear Toe= 0
Agatha the ugly Starion
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- nearly postwhore
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do they really have toe IN at the front from factory? From what I understand it should have toe OUT on the front, and perhaps toe IN on the rear, if any. My car was setup by a race car driver who owns a shop and he did extra toe OUT on the front which made it corner like a dream around the track.
E39A Galant VR-4 Evolution | A164A Eterna GSR | 6G72 RWD Conversion Forum
toe in at the front enourages understeer.. so it'd make sense that it'd be toe in from factory. Also, toe in at stand still often results in no toe angle during forward motion.
toe out sacrifices straight line stability for more eager turnability - this would explain why you felt your car handled better with toe out: I assume this was on a twisty track?
toe out can also introduce or increase tramlining.
toe out sacrifices straight line stability for more eager turnability - this would explain why you felt your car handled better with toe out: I assume this was on a twisty track?
toe out can also introduce or increase tramlining.
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
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- nearly postwhore
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- Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2005 7:27 pm
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I have 2 degrees toe out on the front and I don't think it's sacrificed straight line stability, though having said that I haven't gone over 170km/h in it.
E39A Galant VR-4 Evolution | A164A Eterna GSR | 6G72 RWD Conversion Forum
I think the toe setting would very much depend on driver preference and track -
- do you hate your car being twitchy on the straights? If yes, don't set too much toe out. It's a compromise between twitchiness and better turn in i guess? Your confidence in your knowledge of the car's handling is perhaps more important than the actual setting as well. If you have the optimal setting, but aren't confident with it, you won't be able to capitalise on it.
- remember that any toe while in motion = more rolling resistance, so depending on the track, you'd wanna choose your settings based on whether you need to be faster in the straights or on the turns. Perhaps seek advice from people like wantsom and mrb1, who have frequented eastern creek before?
- do you hate your car being twitchy on the straights? If yes, don't set too much toe out. It's a compromise between twitchiness and better turn in i guess? Your confidence in your knowledge of the car's handling is perhaps more important than the actual setting as well. If you have the optimal setting, but aren't confident with it, you won't be able to capitalise on it.
- remember that any toe while in motion = more rolling resistance, so depending on the track, you'd wanna choose your settings based on whether you need to be faster in the straights or on the turns. Perhaps seek advice from people like wantsom and mrb1, who have frequented eastern creek before?
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
Will be taking my JB to be checked and set up more for track work now that it is trailered to events.The owner of Fulcrum Suspension Graham Smith will be advising his staff on what the new settings will be.
Happy to pass them on when I have the data :)
Happy to pass them on when I have the data :)
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
Tell Graham I said hello and see him in sydney soon :)OLD FART wrote:Will be taking my JB to be checked and set up more for track work now that it is trailered to events.The owner of Fulcrum Suspension Graham Smith will be advising his staff on what the new settings will be.
Happy to pass them on when I have the data :)
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