Making Boost but slowing down ?????
- Cookiemonster
- Mother Goose
- Posts: 3177
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 4:33 pm
- Location: Sydney
Remember, these cars are 20 years old. Things wear out.
Injectors leak, thottle position sensors wear out, distributors wear out which puts ignition timing out. Map sensors fail, air flow meter's read incorrectly. Temperature sensors fail. Then on top of all this you have a seperate ECU and ignition control model designed in the late 70's - early 80's trying to figure out how much fuel to put in and what ignition advance to run.
You really need to seriously consider upgrading to modern ECU's. It will eliminate most if not all weird problems like this.
You'll notice that the people running aftermarket ECU's, even on stock engines, don't seem to have these annoying problems.
Injectors leak, thottle position sensors wear out, distributors wear out which puts ignition timing out. Map sensors fail, air flow meter's read incorrectly. Temperature sensors fail. Then on top of all this you have a seperate ECU and ignition control model designed in the late 70's - early 80's trying to figure out how much fuel to put in and what ignition advance to run.
You really need to seriously consider upgrading to modern ECU's. It will eliminate most if not all weird problems like this.
You'll notice that the people running aftermarket ECU's, even on stock engines, don't seem to have these annoying problems.
That's absolutely right Cookie. :beer
I have had a Haltech on my car for over 13 years and never had any problems with strange stuff happening.
Engine bay electronics get heat soak day after day it would be one of the hardest places to put any sort of electronics.
Put an aftermarket ECU (whatever your budget can stand) and you won't have any problems. The factory stuff is just getting too old now.
There is no reason at all why it should not drive like a current vehicle.
I have had a Haltech on my car for over 13 years and never had any problems with strange stuff happening.
Engine bay electronics get heat soak day after day it would be one of the hardest places to put any sort of electronics.
Put an aftermarket ECU (whatever your budget can stand) and you won't have any problems. The factory stuff is just getting too old now.
There is no reason at all why it should not drive like a current vehicle.
problem solved.
I went to my local mistu dealer and he gave me the microfiche that show where all the vacuum lines are supposed to go. amazing how much difference some new rubber hose can make.
I'm surprised how well it actually goes. I got a blue slip(road worthy) yesterday running factory everything and will be rego'ed this week. I've started removing all the fun bits from my old one and will have most of them on by this arvo. well that's the plan anyway.
I have one quick question, does anyone know what the thermo valve does ?
it's located on the underside of the inlet manifold, it has 2 vacuum lines running to it. One of them does to waste gate actuator and the other is a vacuum line to the throttle body.
I went to my local mistu dealer and he gave me the microfiche that show where all the vacuum lines are supposed to go. amazing how much difference some new rubber hose can make.
I'm surprised how well it actually goes. I got a blue slip(road worthy) yesterday running factory everything and will be rego'ed this week. I've started removing all the fun bits from my old one and will have most of them on by this arvo. well that's the plan anyway.
I have one quick question, does anyone know what the thermo valve does ?
it's located on the underside of the inlet manifold, it has 2 vacuum lines running to it. One of them does to waste gate actuator and the other is a vacuum line to the throttle body.
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- almost postwhore
- Posts: 1015
- Joined: Sat Jan 10, 2004 12:02 pm
- Location: Ballarat, Victoria, Australia
- Contact:
remove the dissy cap, unplug the vaccum hose going to it at the Throttle Body end.Shannon wrote:thanks, the ingnition timing is spot on 5deg at idle. the car actually slows down as the revs drop while under boost this will continue until i lift my foot.
Is there anyway checking the boost retard ? and fixing it if there is a problem ?
The boost gauge is working fine.
Suck and watch the little arm moving inside (retract) the dissy assembly , blow hard and it should move the opposite way, (extend) check for a puncture diaphragm (not retaining vac)
if it's not working, you are getting full mechanical advance under boost, it may be causing the ECU to retard the timing too much (8 deg), it's worth a try...
Kiss my st AZZ -
Starions rule the sports car world
GTI-R's are best in the wet..
Who needs Rock & Roll when there's JAZZ, Honda RULEZ
Starions rule the sports car world
GTI-R's are best in the wet..
Who needs Rock & Roll when there's JAZZ, Honda RULEZ
please please Cookie one thing at a time..... :(Cookiemonster wrote:Remember, these cars are 20 years old. Things wear out.
Injectors leak, thottle position sensors wear out, distributors wear out which puts ignition timing out. Map sensors fail, air flow meter's read incorrectly. Temperature sensors fail. Then on top of all this you have a seperate ECU and ignition control model designed in the late 70's - early 80's trying to figure out how much fuel to put in and what ignition advance to run.
Kiss my st AZZ -
Starions rule the sports car world
GTI-R's are best in the wet..
Who needs Rock & Roll when there's JAZZ, Honda RULEZ
Starions rule the sports car world
GTI-R's are best in the wet..
Who needs Rock & Roll when there's JAZZ, Honda RULEZ
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