About the switch to MPI
About the switch to MPI
Hey guys, I've been pretty busy getting things together for a couple of starion restoration projects fun fun fun :D , so anyway I had managed to get pics till recently and Ill make a topic about my little starion collection over tonight/ tommorow night.
But I recently purchased yet another JA (that makes JA no#4 :) )
and well seems I fluked a great conditioned starion (mechanically) with only a little rust and a few other little things ill need to work on before I take it for blue slip + rego.
Anyhow I was searching for a little info on switching to MPI, with not alot of luck i tryed the forums search feature...well it found a good 1400 topics to pic from.
I was wondering if theres any wisdom anyone wishes to share or perhaps a link to a good guide on wats needed for the 2litre mpi switch and whats entailed in doing so, as I have a source for a hyundai MPI system at a fairly cheap price :D .
So any info or advice anyone would like to give me would be great (and yes I wont be doing the MPI till AFTER blue slip + rego, the car will remain stock.....until then )
Cheers a bunch.... and sorry I'm sure this has probably been asked about a million times.
(A sticky on this matter would probably save it from happening too many more times :x, who knows maybe Ill make a topic about this when i get around to doing it even)
But I recently purchased yet another JA (that makes JA no#4 :) )
and well seems I fluked a great conditioned starion (mechanically) with only a little rust and a few other little things ill need to work on before I take it for blue slip + rego.
Anyhow I was searching for a little info on switching to MPI, with not alot of luck i tryed the forums search feature...well it found a good 1400 topics to pic from.
I was wondering if theres any wisdom anyone wishes to share or perhaps a link to a good guide on wats needed for the 2litre mpi switch and whats entailed in doing so, as I have a source for a hyundai MPI system at a fairly cheap price :D .
So any info or advice anyone would like to give me would be great (and yes I wont be doing the MPI till AFTER blue slip + rego, the car will remain stock.....until then )
Cheers a bunch.... and sorry I'm sure this has probably been asked about a million times.
(A sticky on this matter would probably save it from happening too many more times :x, who knows maybe Ill make a topic about this when i get around to doing it even)
Damo may I suggest that you do the following
Reverse the TB (recomend Falcon tb bigger ,flows more )
Electronic dissy
Haltec 1000 lets you ditch the KV airflow meter and go to MAP sensor to control fuel supply
550cc injectors
FMIC
Recirculating BOV
3inch exhaust
Tune
You may want to clean the tank and check the in tank filter as it may be blocked
Reverse the TB (recomend Falcon tb bigger ,flows more )
Electronic dissy
Haltec 1000 lets you ditch the KV airflow meter and go to MAP sensor to control fuel supply
550cc injectors
FMIC
Recirculating BOV
3inch exhaust
Tune
You may want to clean the tank and check the in tank filter as it may be blocked
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
Ok thanks for the advice old fart, haha yes indeed it was blocked, had to buy a new fuel pump yesterday and put a fresh tank on which i had sitting in the shed luckily, the original tank off of this starion when i dropped it was full of rust, someone was using an emergency fuel cap so Im guess it let moisture get into the tank, but shes running good now....
Almost good enough to register :D , just gotta get dad to take the brakes to work n clean them up abit get new pads and its basically ready besides the rust repairs ill need to do anyway.
thanks again for the help if anyone else has further information that would also be greatly apreciated :)
Almost good enough to register :D , just gotta get dad to take the brakes to work n clean them up abit get new pads and its basically ready besides the rust repairs ill need to do anyway.
thanks again for the help if anyone else has further information that would also be greatly apreciated :)
Pretty much what Oldy said, you will have a choice of 2 inlet manifolds - L300 (pretty much a bolt on deal) or Sonata which require a cut and shut to reverse the flow direction. Sonata is a neater fit but needs a little more (but not a lot of) work to set up.
Never argue with an idiot, it brings you down to their level and they beat you with experience.
Oh and as Oldy also said I would back up his comment on the Haltech ECU. Its an A grade bit of kit and great value for money. That said even an E6 version will be more than ample for what you want to do but the 1000 series is current state of the art.
You can continue to run the existing ignition/distributor system but going to an L300 optical is a lot nicer and allows multi coil setups.
You can continue to run the existing ignition/distributor system but going to an L300 optical is a lot nicer and allows multi coil setups.
Never argue with an idiot, it brings you down to their level and they beat you with experience.
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a haltech sprint 500 is HEAPS for a starion... no need to go for a 1000 unless u want to set records..
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
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Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
what's the point of doing anything if you aren't going after records???
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
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- Location: sunshine coast qld
- Contact:
High impedance injectors aren't a problem anymore since u can get siemens 600's for $100each...
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
and everybody loves semen squirters rofl
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
When I was talking to Mick from Micks Motorsport about my motor the other night, he told me to go the Platinum 1000 over my EMS.avandull wrote:I really like the platinum 1000, and just about every other haltech. The e6 is getting a bit old now.
thrash wrote:and everybody loves semen squirters
I would actually say Bosch or Sard 1000's as a minimum, esp with E85 around now. The new bosch units have improved the spray pattern compared to the old.redzone wrote:siemens 600's
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Yep! The EV14's ones are the way to go... I've heard.1320ft wrote:...The new bosch units have improved the spray pattern compared to the old.
Yep, Injector Dynamics units are just a flow matched Bosch EV14's with extensions on them.fugazi wrote:Yep! The EV14's ones are the way to go... I've heard.1320ft wrote:...The new bosch units have improved the spray pattern compared to the old.
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IRS OUTLAW, 2.3L VR4 Powered X235 Drag Car
Here to run out of your life & take all your money!
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IRS OUTLAW, 2.3L VR4 Powered X235 Drag Car
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When I referred to a Haltech "E6 version", I was referring to the option of that series as in E6K or E6X etc - not the original E6!
The features available in the '6' series is more than ample to drive a simple MPI setup, which is what Redzone was saying in a similar way. Most of the 'advanced' features in high end ECU's really only come into their own when using datalogging and/or in motorsport applications (anti-lag, individual cylinder trimming etc). All you need/want to control in a street driven Starion is fuel/ignition/boost and maybe aircon and fan control.
The features available in the '6' series is more than ample to drive a simple MPI setup, which is what Redzone was saying in a similar way. Most of the 'advanced' features in high end ECU's really only come into their own when using datalogging and/or in motorsport applications (anti-lag, individual cylinder trimming etc). All you need/want to control in a street driven Starion is fuel/ignition/boost and maybe aircon and fan control.
Never argue with an idiot, it brings you down to their level and they beat you with experience.
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