My Widey
So i haven't stopped driving this thing since it was rego'd :D I still have a exhaust leak around the turbo area, and i've had a injector issue causing my car to not start and fall on its ass above 3k. To top it all off my tps is crook :( and because of that my cruise control will not work at 110kmh, as it seems to sit where the dead spot is. The injector issue seems to be sorted now, but my mind is made up on a mpi conversion. So i'm not going to pull the car off the road just yet, but the research and parts collection shall begin.
On a side note last time i looked at my turbo we noticed the front cover had been polished on the inside. We just assumed it had been machined and a 14b wheel or something slightly larger had been fitted. Turns out after measuring it that it is still a 12a, however the front cover has been bellmouthed and polished :) Also the wastegate is cracking at 11psi and fully opened by 14psi, so my factory boost guage is telling fibs no wonder it feels way faster than Charlies and Mals cars :P
For anyone who doesn't know a jdm widey should have a tdo512a front with a 8cm rear housing, which would be a great upgrade for a aussie car, as our td05s are only 6cm.
So plans are Magna head and intake, upgrage my current turbo to a 16g or 20g depending on cost and wastegate mounting issues. up the bost to 18-20 psi and see what the tractor can pull.
On a side note last time i looked at my turbo we noticed the front cover had been polished on the inside. We just assumed it had been machined and a 14b wheel or something slightly larger had been fitted. Turns out after measuring it that it is still a 12a, however the front cover has been bellmouthed and polished :) Also the wastegate is cracking at 11psi and fully opened by 14psi, so my factory boost guage is telling fibs no wonder it feels way faster than Charlies and Mals cars :P
For anyone who doesn't know a jdm widey should have a tdo512a front with a 8cm rear housing, which would be a great upgrade for a aussie car, as our td05s are only 6cm.
So plans are Magna head and intake, upgrage my current turbo to a 16g or 20g depending on cost and wastegate mounting issues. up the bost to 18-20 psi and see what the tractor can pull.
I'm not sure yet Mal. I don't want to spend to much on the conversion as i still plan to do the twincam install. I have a magna head and i have a evo3 turbo with a 20g wheel installed, so i will most likely will steal parts from that. The ecu and fuel pump i have to install for the twincam anyway so thats not a drama. I just want to give the 2.6 a fair chance as the way it's going now i think there is some potential there. It is faster than my jb was and pulled like a train up bulli pass yesterday :D
i reckon you should leave the boat anchor in there.. if the yanks can pull out 300 or 400 hp with no dramas, why would you go to the expense of a twink for the same outcome?
i see axes flying at me...
i see axes flying at me...
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
The 2.6 boost guages are notourious for being wrong, according to what I read in the past the computer puts out a signal for what it thinks the boost pressure is based on the air going through the air flow meter. (They work differently to the 2L)www.18u wrote:so my factory boost guage is telling fibs
1988 Mitsubishi Starion EX Widebody
1987 Mitsubishi Starion EX
1991 Mitsubishi L200 Double Cab Sport
2010 Holden Colorado Ute
1987 Mitsubishi Starion EX
1991 Mitsubishi L200 Double Cab Sport
2010 Holden Colorado Ute
I'm with this guy, there's a factory GH Turbo with a forged 2.6/Powerglide in it about somewhere on youtube spinning the rollers to the tune of 509.4rwhpthrash wrote:i reckon you should leave the boat anchor in there.. if the yanks can pull out 300 or 400 hp with no dramas, why would you go to the expense of a twink for the same outcome?
i see axes flying at me...
Edit:
"Speed isn't everything; you gotta look cool on the touge too."- Keiichi Tsuchiya
gj2600.wordpress.com
gj2600.wordpress.com
Ok ok... My reasons.
1: I already have a forged twincam sitting in my garage with a bunch of goodies (hypertune intake ect) Had it now for about 4 years and never turned a key.
2: Weight distribution (this motor sits futher forward than the 63 and is a little heavier)
3: I was going to put this motor into something else later on, or sell it as a complete setup. This is why i'm not keen on putting my 3076 on it, or using my bigger injectors.
4: I wish to track my car and do some drift events and the old 2.6 is chain driven and they don't seem to like that much :(
If i didn't have the tc setup already, and after driving the car i can honestly say i would have just built a serious 2.6 and had a seen what happens if you throw big boost at it.
Now all it makes me wnt to do is get more cubes in my tc... might be time to build a stoker.
1: I already have a forged twincam sitting in my garage with a bunch of goodies (hypertune intake ect) Had it now for about 4 years and never turned a key.
2: Weight distribution (this motor sits futher forward than the 63 and is a little heavier)
3: I was going to put this motor into something else later on, or sell it as a complete setup. This is why i'm not keen on putting my 3076 on it, or using my bigger injectors.
4: I wish to track my car and do some drift events and the old 2.6 is chain driven and they don't seem to like that much :(
If i didn't have the tc setup already, and after driving the car i can honestly say i would have just built a serious 2.6 and had a seen what happens if you throw big boost at it.
Now all it makes me wnt to do is get more cubes in my tc... might be time to build a stoker.
There is no substitute for cubic inches!
Why not go really different, twincam 2.6l!
Why not go really different, twincam 2.6l!
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one thing i've found is that the 2.6's NEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEED a baffled sump if you're going to do ANY motorsport with it, i think the reason mine has had problems is due to the sump being stock. they dont cope well with g forces..
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
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Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Sure, if he can find one of the 9 twincam Astron heads in existence, then come up with money to cover the 5-figure price tag attached :P1320ft wrote:There is no substitute for cubic inches!
Why not go really different, twincam 2.6l!
"Speed isn't everything; you gotta look cool on the touge too."- Keiichi Tsuchiya
gj2600.wordpress.com
gj2600.wordpress.com
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Ok so time for another update, seeing as i don't get on here much anymore.
I've been rather frustrated by the fact i couldn't lower the car in the front, as my rims touched the locking collar on the coilovers even with a 8mm spacer.
After much discussion with John, Aaron, Brett and Mal, i booked the car in to get the suspension sorted once and for all.
Whilst i was there, i purchased the Willwood brake upgrade kit from the states. I chose the smaller kit, as i wanted to keep my 16's for track events and i couldn't justify spending more money on a new set of rims.
My clutch had also started slipping under load in 4th and 5th gear :(
So it was upgraded with a 6 puck unit off Superscan, at a price i couldn't refuse.
After much stuffing around to make them fit (no they don't just bolt up like he says!) they are finally on.
I can't thank John and Aaron enough for their help with this. The car wouldn't be back up and running without them helping out.
As a bonus of the brake upgrade i now have more positive offset, meaning i don't require spacers anymore to clear my strut :D
I picked the car up yesterday, and found my new clutch was slipping just like my old one :x So i got under it and found the slave has given up the ghost.
I had also noticed the old clutch had no real signs of wear, except that 2 springs were loose.
I'm still glad i replaced it, as i'm doing some upgrades pretty soon and now know it will handle the task anyway.
The car handles heaps better than before, and rides better than most new cars.
I'm just lowering it a bit at a time until i scrape, then raising back up a touch for spoiler safety
Getting ready for the March cruise now :D
I've been rather frustrated by the fact i couldn't lower the car in the front, as my rims touched the locking collar on the coilovers even with a 8mm spacer.
After much discussion with John, Aaron, Brett and Mal, i booked the car in to get the suspension sorted once and for all.
Whilst i was there, i purchased the Willwood brake upgrade kit from the states. I chose the smaller kit, as i wanted to keep my 16's for track events and i couldn't justify spending more money on a new set of rims.
My clutch had also started slipping under load in 4th and 5th gear :(
So it was upgraded with a 6 puck unit off Superscan, at a price i couldn't refuse.
After much stuffing around to make them fit (no they don't just bolt up like he says!) they are finally on.
I can't thank John and Aaron enough for their help with this. The car wouldn't be back up and running without them helping out.
As a bonus of the brake upgrade i now have more positive offset, meaning i don't require spacers anymore to clear my strut :D
I picked the car up yesterday, and found my new clutch was slipping just like my old one :x So i got under it and found the slave has given up the ghost.
I had also noticed the old clutch had no real signs of wear, except that 2 springs were loose.
I'm still glad i replaced it, as i'm doing some upgrades pretty soon and now know it will handle the task anyway.
The car handles heaps better than before, and rides better than most new cars.
I'm just lowering it a bit at a time until i scrape, then raising back up a touch for spoiler safety
Getting ready for the March cruise now :D
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