help with water system
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- I like starions more
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 11:12 pm
- Location: auckland, NZ
help with water system
hi guys, just a few questions if you dont mind.
i've got my evo head on, but i didnt drill the two extra coolant holes in the block at the front... now im not planning on running huge power, am i going to have to rip the head off and drill them or can i get away without?
i asked redzone and he said "its a good idea if youre running a rear water outlet"
i dont quite understand this, what other outlet is there to use? and why am i seeing pictures of people welding spouts onto the water pump, facing towards the firewall? is that just another option for a bypass pipe or what? help!
i've got my evo head on, but i didnt drill the two extra coolant holes in the block at the front... now im not planning on running huge power, am i going to have to rip the head off and drill them or can i get away without?
i asked redzone and he said "its a good idea if youre running a rear water outlet"
i dont quite understand this, what other outlet is there to use? and why am i seeing pictures of people welding spouts onto the water pump, facing towards the firewall? is that just another option for a bypass pipe or what? help!
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- Woodwide
- Posts: 3133
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- Location: Gold Coast
- Contact:
Hey.
There are two options to run.
1) is via the rear (normal) thermostat housing. You don't NEED to drill those two holes but it does help flow.
See image here (I am not embedding it as its quite big)
http://projectzerog.com/images/4g37waterNeck.jpg
2) Is via the front where you close off the rear, and weld on a new pipe from the front water hole. You NEED the front holes drilled for this method.
See image here
http://projectzerog.com/images/cleanEng ... Corner.jpg
Hope that helps.
There are two options to run.
1) is via the rear (normal) thermostat housing. You don't NEED to drill those two holes but it does help flow.
See image here (I am not embedding it as its quite big)
http://projectzerog.com/images/4g37waterNeck.jpg
2) Is via the front where you close off the rear, and weld on a new pipe from the front water hole. You NEED the front holes drilled for this method.
See image here
http://projectzerog.com/images/cleanEng ... Corner.jpg
Hope that helps.
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- I like starions more
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 11:12 pm
- Location: auckland, NZ
With the evo head did you enlarge the clearance for the oil feed to the head given the increase in head bolt size? If you didn't do this the head will have to come off and you can correct the coolant flow direction at the same time.
With the Starion head the coolant path is such that the dominate flow is from the rear of the head to the front while with the dohc head the dominate flow is from the front to the rear. The flow direction is controlled by the size of the holes or lack of holes in the block, head and the head gasket.
With the Starion head the coolant path is such that the dominate flow is from the rear of the head to the front while with the dohc head the dominate flow is from the front to the rear. The flow direction is controlled by the size of the holes or lack of holes in the block, head and the head gasket.
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- I like starions more
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 11:12 pm
- Location: auckland, NZ
no i didnt, please explain whats required here. first i've heard of it. obviously the bolt holes have been enlarged to 12mm for the head bolts, but thats the extent of it.dwlee wrote:With the evo head did you enlarge the clearance for the oil feed to the head given the increase in head bolt size? If you didn't do this the head will have to come off and you can correct the coolant flow direction at the same time.
Using the larger head bolts with an evo head can restrict oil flow into the head due to the reduction in the clearance between the rear exhaust side head bolt. The oil flows around the head bolt into an oil gallery part way up the hole. If the correct clearance is not maintained you run the risk of not getting enough oil to the head.
See
http://www.orldsm.com/archive/index.php/t-14025.html
and
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinde ... 4g63t.html
Edit: changed inlet to exhaust
See
http://www.orldsm.com/archive/index.php/t-14025.html
and
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinde ... 4g63t.html
Edit: changed inlet to exhaust
Last edited by dwlee on Sat May 07, 2011 12:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- I like starions more
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 11:12 pm
- Location: auckland, NZ
ok so i'm running a 1/2" bit up as far as the oil gallery on the bolt hole closest to the CAS. i'm using an ARP stud set too so going by the same logic that allows for a 35 thou clearance. should be heaps
any preferable size for the water holes in the block? same size as the gasket holes i guess.... how deep is the steel in the block there?
any preferable size for the water holes in the block? same size as the gasket holes i guess.... how deep is the steel in the block there?
Sounds right. I just drilled them the same size as the gasket.dwlee wrote:The holes in a dohc block I have in the shed are 6mm. Also, note the oil inlet is on the exhaust side.
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
I did not drill out the head stud hole that carries the oil supply.
However my turbo oil feed is coming from the back of the oil filter housing, not the head. So this might explain why I have not had any problems.
The cam shafts have no signs of wear and I have been using the same head and cams since 2009
However my turbo oil feed is coming from the back of the oil filter housing, not the head. So this might explain why I have not had any problems.
The cam shafts have no signs of wear and I have been using the same head and cams since 2009
Agatha the ugly Starion
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- I like starions more
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- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 11:12 pm
- Location: auckland, NZ
are you using an evo or galant head?avandull wrote:I did not drill out the head stud hole that carries the oil supply.
However my turbo oil feed is coming from the back of the oil filter housing, not the head. So this might explain why I have not had any problems.
The cam shafts have no signs of wear and I have been using the same head and cams since 2009
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