Timing mark question.
Timing mark question.
Well in the search for the cause of my under powered 4G63, I've just checked my timing.
Everything looks fine but i have noticed that if I put a straight edge across the factory cam wheels the timing marks don't all line up. Im talking about all 4 marks. The two in the middle line up but the two on the outside don't when I put the straight edge across them. Surely they should all line up??
Help!!
Everything looks fine but i have noticed that if I put a straight edge across the factory cam wheels the timing marks don't all line up. Im talking about all 4 marks. The two in the middle line up but the two on the outside don't when I put the straight edge across them. Surely they should all line up??
Help!!
Last edited by JAS on Sat May 14, 2011 1:01 pm, edited 2 times in total.
1984 Sigma Super, Turbo Wagon
1990 GSR-VR 50,000ks
1984 GSR II 4G63 302kw atw at 24psi
http://www.facebook.com/marvinmartiannz
1990 GSR-VR 50,000ks
1984 GSR II 4G63 302kw atw at 24psi
http://www.facebook.com/marvinmartiannz
You could get a degree wheel on the crank and put a dial indicator on the cam lobes, find the centreline of the lobe and check that it is dialled in to the cam card spec.
If you don't have a degree wheel a 360 deg timing tape might be ok.
I'd lend you my stuff, but its a pit of a drive/swim.
If you don't have a degree wheel a 360 deg timing tape might be ok.
I'd lend you my stuff, but its a pit of a drive/swim.
1985 JB Starion #157
thanks for the offer mate. But yes. Its getting to cold for that kind of swim now lolTOMSUN wrote:You could get a degree wheel on the crank and put a dial indicator on the cam lobes, find the centreline of the lobe and check that it is dialled in to the cam card spec.
If you don't have a degree wheel a 360 deg timing tape might be ok.
I'd lend you my stuff, but its a pit of a drive/swim.
Im only using the standard cams, so shouldnt need to go to the extream of degreeing them up.
I remember doing a cambelt on one of my old starions and getting it out by one tooth and it drove similar to the way my twincam one does now. Its slow to boost up and not making as much power as it should.
And after around 5700rpm the torque drops off very fast.
1984 Sigma Super, Turbo Wagon
1990 GSR-VR 50,000ks
1984 GSR II 4G63 302kw atw at 24psi
http://www.facebook.com/marvinmartiannz
1990 GSR-VR 50,000ks
1984 GSR II 4G63 302kw atw at 24psi
http://www.facebook.com/marvinmartiannz
-
- racking my brains
- Posts: 5900
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:46 pm
- Location: sunshine coast qld
- Contact:
Yeah it's only the centre two that need to line up :) they use the same gear for intake & exhaust hence the 2 marks on each pulley
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Thanks!!
I might just strip the front off the engine and double check everything anyway.
I might just strip the front off the engine and double check everything anyway.
1984 Sigma Super, Turbo Wagon
1990 GSR-VR 50,000ks
1984 GSR II 4G63 302kw atw at 24psi
http://www.facebook.com/marvinmartiannz
1990 GSR-VR 50,000ks
1984 GSR II 4G63 302kw atw at 24psi
http://www.facebook.com/marvinmartiannz
lol Thanks for your help mike!!! :beer
1984 Sigma Super, Turbo Wagon
1990 GSR-VR 50,000ks
1984 GSR II 4G63 302kw atw at 24psi
http://www.facebook.com/marvinmartiannz
1990 GSR-VR 50,000ks
1984 GSR II 4G63 302kw atw at 24psi
http://www.facebook.com/marvinmartiannz
Looks out to me.
1984 Sigma Super, Turbo Wagon
1990 GSR-VR 50,000ks
1984 GSR II 4G63 302kw atw at 24psi
http://www.facebook.com/marvinmartiannz
1990 GSR-VR 50,000ks
1984 GSR II 4G63 302kw atw at 24psi
http://www.facebook.com/marvinmartiannz
Ive used a screw driver in the #1 cylinder to get TDC because the plate with the timing mark is a starion one. Which doesnt line up.
I can get the cam gear marks to line up if I rotate the crank but then the crank is not at TDC.
I can get the cam gear marks to line up if I rotate the crank but then the crank is not at TDC.
1984 Sigma Super, Turbo Wagon
1990 GSR-VR 50,000ks
1984 GSR II 4G63 302kw atw at 24psi
http://www.facebook.com/marvinmartiannz
1990 GSR-VR 50,000ks
1984 GSR II 4G63 302kw atw at 24psi
http://www.facebook.com/marvinmartiannz
I have just took the top timing cover off and got a few shots. I have the VR4 harmonic balancer and timing cover, so it is easier for me to find TDC. I tried the screw driver technique to compare with the mark on the harmonic balancer, but I found it very difficult to get accurate.
I found a very slight error in my allignment marks. The first shot is where the harmonic balancer ends up when I line up the marks on the cams
The second is where the cams end up when I line up the mark on the harmonic balancer.
I believe my Starion is timed correctly, and the small error is due to stretch in the belt.
I found a very slight error in my allignment marks. The first shot is where the harmonic balancer ends up when I line up the marks on the cams
The second is where the cams end up when I line up the mark on the harmonic balancer.
I believe my Starion is timed correctly, and the small error is due to stretch in the belt.
Agatha the ugly Starion
-
- I like starions
- Posts: 108
- Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2010 9:36 pm
- Location: Camden
Jas
Rotate the crank around till both of the timing marks line, make a note how many degrees after TDC that the marks line up, this is how much the cam will be retarded, have you had the block decked and the head machined, what was the thickness of the head gasket compared to the standard gasket. Any time you machine a head, the natural thing on an OHC engine is the can gets retarded, it is more noticeable on a TC, having the cam retarded, you will notice a loss of power down low, but gain power in the top end, if it only a few degrees i would not worry about adjustable cam gears, it looks like yours could be 5+ degrees out
Rotate the crank around till both of the timing marks line, make a note how many degrees after TDC that the marks line up, this is how much the cam will be retarded, have you had the block decked and the head machined, what was the thickness of the head gasket compared to the standard gasket. Any time you machine a head, the natural thing on an OHC engine is the can gets retarded, it is more noticeable on a TC, having the cam retarded, you will notice a loss of power down low, but gain power in the top end, if it only a few degrees i would not worry about adjustable cam gears, it looks like yours could be 5+ degrees out
JB Starion Black, owned since 1988
JB Starion Black, track car build
I just had another look at your photos, it is out of alignment quite a bit.
I also think it is important to be able to set up the factory cams, before you should even consider getting a set of adjustable cams.
You should not cover up in-correct timing setup with adjustable cam gears.
I also think it is important to be able to set up the factory cams, before you should even consider getting a set of adjustable cams.
You should not cover up in-correct timing setup with adjustable cam gears.
Agatha the ugly Starion
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 1 guest