It's Alive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now with photo's

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WANTSOM
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Post by WANTSOM »

You've done a great job Jason. The cage is very well done and all in all the thinking and execution is spot on. :beer

I think 30 mins in the garage spinning that turbo housing around (very easy to do on the car) would be time well spent and remove a fair bit of pipework and make for a) more responsive boost and b) tidy up the engine bay considerably. When funds allow I would definitely vouch for the GT Pumps EVO 3 TD05 16G. I ran that turbo very successfully on the DASH motor and its brilliant. I am now running Marks (GT Pumps) 20G and its also a great turbo. He builds and sells quality packages well suited to the Mitsi's.

Will have to drop around one day soon and check out your heater setup as well for when I convert bacj to a road registered car.

Cheers
Greg
Never argue with an idiot, it brings you down to their level and they beat you with experience.
enthuzed
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Post by enthuzed »

The advice above is very sound. You've done all that other work.
Info you may have seen already, but pics and details will answer some/all of your questions. http://starion.mrbdesign.com.au/ Click the "EVO3 turbo install" tab on the LHS.
Maybe you want to mod the inlet mani as well to tidy up the other side and jamm more air in (More power!). Just a thought while it's all in bits.
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starionc
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Post by starionc »

Thanks Greg. So what is your 16G turbo doing now?

enthuzed The car runs now! In bits no longer and just needs a trip to the dyno. :D :D :D

The cooler pipe and L300 manifold were done years ago just after the cage was done. I got the L300 manifold very cheap :D :D So that's why I used it.
I found out about the 16G turbos from GT pumps well after the work was done :oops:
This car has had hundreds of hours spent on it and I didn't want to change the pipe work to fit a better turbo. (tight ass :wink:)

At the time I was undecided about the turbo motor or a high compression 2.4 twin cam non turbo motor........ I have not said much about that as I was waiting to see how the turbo set up goes in the forest first. Sadly its taken years longer then I planed. (Buying and running another lancer only robbed the starion of my time and funds)
Maybe someone can put up a photo of the turbo spun around, It's only 1 side of the pipe that needs to change! It would be nice to have the car tuned with the better turbo. I need to change the diff while I'm at it.

Cheers Jason.
How many Starions can one man drive!!

Check out my website: www.aboutstumpgrinding.com.au
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WANTSOM
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Post by WANTSOM »

That particular turbo went back to Mark and sorta got incorporated into the 20G.

Mate, I understand fully about what can be done with available funds. Its the limiting factor in most racers program LOL

Here is a pic of the 16G installed on the DASH motor. This was set this way when it was assembled but the way to do it on a TC turbo is to 'gently' rotate the comp housing around to the lower position. You may need to make up a bit of plate to mount your actuator off but its all pretty simple really. That said I recognise now its a case of wanting to get it tuned and go have some fun. But definitely set it up this way if you ever have the turbo off or change to a TD05. talk to Mark at GT Pumps when you're ready and I'm sure he will see you right with all good advice and the bits you need.

Cheers
Greg

Image
Never argue with an idiot, it brings you down to their level and they beat you with experience.
starionc
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Post by starionc »

That's a good looking set up! Where did you get the heat shields from? And what radiator is that?

The car needs suspension before it hits the forest, but a track day will be on the cards to get some time in the seat :D
Cheers Jason
How many Starions can one man drive!!

Check out my website: www.aboutstumpgrinding.com.au
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WANTSOM
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Post by WANTSOM »

Heat shields I had made using some cardboard templates I made up then just got a sheetmetal fabricator to bend/shape to the template.

The radiator saw much honourable service in a certain Group A car that was prepared from a workshop at Meadowbank here in Sydney. I got hold of when Ron went aluminium but its since met its demise and gone to the tip as it got badly damaged badly in a weird ass way one day when the power steering line came off and got caught up in it all. I ditched it when I did the TC in favour of one of Redzone alloy ones.
Never argue with an idiot, it brings you down to their level and they beat you with experience.
enthuzed
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Post by enthuzed »

Jason, love the fresh look of the door cards. What did you use and how did you mount them? Are they simply re-covered?
Reduce fuel costs by 15-20% & cut emissions by 1/3rd...
Increase engine performance & prolong engine life...
How?
Click the website button below & watch the 3 minute video.
starionc
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Post by starionc »

The door cards are made from coreflute. The stuff they use for realestate signs. I used the old one for a template. Then just screwed them to the door. You could cover them in cloth and tuck the edges under. But mine are to save weight so no cover just plastic. Cheers Jason
How many Starions can one man drive!!

Check out my website: www.aboutstumpgrinding.com.au
starionc
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Post by starionc »

The door cards are made from coreflute. The stuff they use for realestate signs. I used the old one for a template. Then just screwed them to the door. You could cover them in cloth and tuck the edges under. But mine are to save weight so no cover just plastic. Cheers Jason
How many Starions can one man drive!!

Check out my website: www.aboutstumpgrinding.com.au
enthuzed
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Post by enthuzed »

starionc wrote:The door cards are made from coreflute. The stuff they use for realestate signs. I used the old one for a template. Then just screwed them to the door. You could cover them in cloth and tuck the edges under. But mine are to save weight so no cover just plastic. Cheers Jason

I'm wondering how you'd close the ends of the corflute so the hollow sections don't get dirt in them. And without adding much extra weight.
Maybe just lose the masonite backing and use the corflute instead.
Reduce fuel costs by 15-20% & cut emissions by 1/3rd...
Increase engine performance & prolong engine life...
How?
Click the website button below & watch the 3 minute video.
starionc
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Post by starionc »

I didn't think about dirt as it will be rallyed so it will have dirt every where any way. The standard covers with carpet and vinal are hard to get apart without wrecking them. That's why a cloth cover wraped around the corflute would look good, and it would be easy to just tuck up behind the coreflute and cover the screws that hold it on. Unless you used velcrow to hold the coreflute on the doors. (And before Trash jumps on me I'm having some spelling greif LOL)

Cheers Jason
How many Starions can one man drive!!

Check out my website: www.aboutstumpgrinding.com.au
Mick
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Post by Mick »

Well done Jason,

Huge repect for the amount of work you've put in... its a long road hey! :D
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starionc
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Post by starionc »

Thanks mate, over 4 years and don't want to know how much money! But at least I can say I built it. Unlike my first rally car years ago that I got and then solved problems... LB Lancer.

Cheers Jason
How many Starions can one man drive!!

Check out my website: www.aboutstumpgrinding.com.au
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