Starion block+VR4 head build up.

[avandull]

Here are some pictures of my latest motor build up. This time I went a starion block, and VR4 head. Block bored out 20 thou.





Drilled 2 new holes in the deck of the block to allow water flow to the extra water galleries in the twin cam head using the head gasket at a giude.



The rings are gapped, and then the pistons are pushed in

New bearings coated with assembly lube.





VR4 Crank shaft fitted in place.



ARP main bearing studs. Eagle conrods, should be good.



The studs stick up a bit high when it comes time to fit the starion sump.. The sump needs a little panel beating to make room for the studs.



Hyundai Sonata (1995 model) front plate fitted, Note the aluminium plug I had made up to plug the balance shaft hole.



Oil filter housing fitted



VR4 water pump was fitted





ARP head studs, 3 layer metal head gasket. On with the head...







Note the modified water pipe.







This is my head water outlet pipe. This is connected to a old corolla thermostat housing.





I made the panel in front of the radiator removable for convenience.

[fugazi]

Nice! :D

[avandull]

Ive been busy,
Old fart gave me a good idea,
I had some trouble with a brass oil fitting double adapter. I fitted it so that my after market oil light, and my oil pressure gauge would both work, however, after a couple of years, it broke off. Very lucky it did it in the garage when I was changing the oil.

So I made this.
It has a flexible rubber hose connecting to where the oil pressure sensor used to be. There is a hole drilled through the full length of the aluminium rod, with a plug at one end and the hose at the other.
Yes it is sitting on my shed floor.



Note the unit is mounted next to the air filter.
Now all my gauges work.

[TOMSUN]

Very cool. Also what did you use on the shed floor.

[OLD FART]

Top job on all fronts and I like the removeable radiator support panel as well
The Eagle /Wiseco forged combo is a fair bit lighter than the stock VR4 and you will find it a bit more responsive to drive as a result :D :beer
Glad you copied my remote oil preasure distrubition block to mount multiple senders. I had the original "T" piece break on the dyno and was lucky not to grenade the motor
My advice for what it's worth is never never use brass fittings but to use steel fittings from a hydraulic hose supplier Because eventually brass fittings will fail!!!

[fugazi]

Top job on all fronts and I like the removeable radiator support panel as well

Me too, but w the hoodlockingmecanism it gets complicated... no probs w hoodpins!
It's on the "toodolist"!

The Eagle /Wiseco forged combo is a fair bit lighter than the stock VR4 and you will find it a bit more responsive to drive as a result

Less weight and friction = more tourqe! :D

How did you do the brackets for the IC (can't see any)?

[avandull]

The floor is painted with white paving sealer. Any mess just wipes right off, except petrol which dissolves it. So I have to be careful with petrol.

I will put up some pics of the inter-cooler brackets soon.

The hood-locking-mechanism would be a problem. Best to get rid of it.

Next step is to boost up the motor and see if she does 12's like the last one.

[redzone]

make sure u have the ecu tuned for the exact boost you run, i assume thats why the old one died?? i seem to remember you winding it up higher than it was tuned for?

[avandull]

That is correct. It was sad days.
There will be much more time, money and equipment go in to tuning high boost.
The pistons are lower compression which will help too.

This is what happens when a motor is not tuned very well at 25psi


It was only piston 2 that had melted. Head was ok.

[redzone]

yeah it just shows you that forged pistons can still die from a tuning mishap!

[Lummy]

I hope it all works well for you as I've just built one almost identical, except it has the 2.3 litre crank and pistons and it's all VR4.

I went with a CR of 10.2:1, which, with good fuel is well and truely on the conservative side. It's all in the tune. I'm on E85 (Powerplus) and wont be running any more than 20psi.

Mine is still being put together so it's another few weeks away yet, but I'm running a restrictor (36mm for IP racing), so even with the 2.3 I wont get anywhere near your power figure. I'll be happy with around 320HP ATW.

Out of interest, what gearbox are you running? I kept breaking W series Supra boxes so I've now gone to a PAR engineering gearset in the Supra housing. Expensive, but it should be bullet proof.

Keep us updated on how it goes!

[avandull]

I am using the standard Starion gearbox. With redline shockproof gear oil.
I am gentle on it though.

[Lummy]

You would want to be!

It may be hard to believe, but my Supra boxes generally let go when I was reasonably "gentle" with them - in top gear, 5th just couldn't hold the torque at around 5000rpm, it would just rip the small 5th gear apart. I'm hoping the new gearset will be significantly better. If you're at 25psi with a Starion box, you must be VERY gentle with it. I was only at around 18psi with mine.

I would have a plan B at the ready if I were you!

[Sargeant_Khan]

can we see more pics of the white car please. Engine looks great m8. :beer

[avandulls_gal]

Posting for Avandull - he's standing over my shoulder....

The white one's only a single cam, being done up for a mate. I modified the L300 intake manifold a bit so the throttle body faces the right way and I put an XF Falcon throttle body on it. 16g turbo Haltech E11 computer.