T04B............

Ice Starion · Post by **Ice Starion** » Fri May 28, 2004 4:28 am

mrb1 wrote:NXTIME,
forget about the TD05-16G it has the TC05 small exhaust wheel. Get a big 16G wheel and fit it to your TC06. Someone will have to machine out your TC06 housing. Or buy a TD06 compressor housing to suit.
These are available on ebay in the US.

The US guy's never talk about the TC06 because it does not exist over there.
Put a TD06 compressor housing with wheel (big 16G, 17C, 19C whatever)on our TC06 and you have an instant TD06.
Yes there are bigger exhaust housing's available for the TD06 but the Starion TC06 housing is heaps bigger inside than the TD05 so it's fine for the 2.0 litre.

Why they put a Cordia sized turbo on the 2.6 Starion amazes me. That's why the 2.6 only made around the same power, sometimes even less depending on model, than the 2.0 cars.

Don't be fooled the TD05 exhaust housing looks the same on the outside as the TC06 but is heaps smaller on the inside because it has the TC05 exhaust wheel. Plus the gap into the involute is 1mm narrower. However the volume of the involute does looks the same as far as I can tell.

i need a complet turbo my exhaust half has a crack in it and it is a tc05 so what sould i shech for on ebay would a evo III preform well or sould i get something diffrent

mrb1 · Post by **mrb1** » Fri May 28, 2004 11:12 am

Ice starion,
I'm not sure about fittment issues with EVOIII. I rather say nothing than give you bad advice. Can someone help him? NXTIME might know.

Anyhow have a look at http://starion.mrbdesign.com.au and look at the Turbo page for a bit more general info. I have a lot more to add to this site soon. It's not pretty but the info is there.

toysrus · Post by **toysrus** » Fri May 28, 2004 11:12 am

Thanks NXTIME,

also Ice, go to www.slowboyracing.com, a brand new EVO III turbo is $590 US which has an internal wastegate and should be enough for about 400Hp :)

And yes the exhaust flange/dump pipe will have to be changed and massaged unless you get the Evo o2 Housing, can be found on ebay !

Here's one

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... gory=33742

There are some custom ones which run the wastegate pipe about 10 inches further down, said to improve performance :roll:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... gory=33742

mrb1 · Post by **mrb1** » Fri May 28, 2004 11:18 am

NXTIME wrote:
NB: these calculations are based on US dyno figures that are known to read approximately 15% higher than AUS dyno's. These figures therefore assume a drivetrain loss of about 15%.

Bloody Dynojet they have a lot to answer for :glare: Complete POS.

mrb1 · Post by **mrb1** » Fri May 28, 2004 11:29 am

toysrus,
if I'm not mistaken these will send his exhaust through the bonnet! I would hate to give this guy the wrong advice. Remember the exhaust housing is upside down on the FWD type VR4/EVO installation. Not having a go at you. :beer

toysrus · Post by **toysrus** » Fri May 28, 2004 12:27 pm

LOL

Your probably right, what car does he have ?

But anyhow, you get the idea, I reckon it would be cheaper to have an exhaust shop there in Iceland or whateva make it rather than pay $200US not incl shipping for a bit of piping

quest · Post by **quest** » Fri May 28, 2004 12:34 pm

u.s. dynos read ~15% higher than aus ? hmmmm... do they really ?
I know the common 'mustang dyno' reads about that much lower than the ever popular dynojet... is that what type aus guys use ?
You can pretty much tell from what turbo compressor you're running at a given boost what kinda power you will make at the wheels. Normally quarter mile times will back it up... and they do.

Some tidbits;
I know of an sr20 powered s13 that runs 10s with ~360whp, lightened to 2500 lbs tho. Wicked 1.4 60 foot time helped, no doubt.
A guy on the u.s. starion forums ran an 11.22s with his STREET 20g powered 2.6 beast, no spray. He said he ran a "super" 20g - that could mean a td06 hot wheel with a garret 60 trim compressor wheel. These are know to put down solid performance on 2.6s. Car was setup nice.
2.0 turbos
20Gs with 06 or clipped 05 wheels have taken 3200+ lb awd DSMs into the 11s.
Garret t3/stage3/0.63/50-trim is another very popular street 11sec turbo for DSMs also.
Evo3 16g has taken a few 3300 pound DSMs to 12.2s @26 psi.

I will swap various turbos back and forth from a 2.0 sohc to 2.0 dohc to the 2.6, just for comparison. I know that a 60-1/t04b/stage3/0.63 will be a bit 'laggy' on the 2.0 dohc, but a 2.6 will spin it up like its a lil 16g - big difference.

mrb1 · Post by **mrb1** » Fri May 28, 2004 1:22 pm

We have been using high quality eddy current chassis dyno's in Australia for many years. In fact Vane Australia exported lots of eddy current chassis dyno's back in the mid to late 1980's.
The US was way behind as far as good chassis dyno's were concerned. Lots of old water brake stuff.
Dynojet is an inertia roller, cannot even hold a speed makes it impossible to map a car just a complete waste of time for anthing serious. Plus produces very dubious numbers. Might be alright as far as comparisons go that's all.
Workshops in the US don't know any better because they are all used to seeing Dynojets. As soon as they use a good eddy current dyno they realise what they have been missing :)

Why don't you ask a Dynojet guy to hold it at 3000 RPM so I can check the mapping from cruise to full load in 5% throttle increments.

toysrus · Post by **toysrus** » Fri May 28, 2004 1:32 pm

NXTIME · Post by **NXTIME** » Fri May 28, 2004 2:12 pm

quest,

The most common dyno used in Aus is the Dyno Dynamics chassis dyno. It is well known via many many comparisons that these dyno's read ~15% less than the dynojets that are mainly used in the US. The thousands of times run and compared between the two countries confirms this. Most of the online calculators that I have come across also reflect this (see my example in my above post).

When you compare the estimated flywheel power required for a cetain ET, then it all evens out and the figures are very close if not the same. (Again, see my example above).

Those turbos v ET's are spot on to what I have found via research also. However, I currently have a TO4B with a 60-1 wheel and O-trim rear and seem to generate boost at about 2,200rpm using my 2L SOHC and standard cam. I am also using a ported standard manifold. I guess it all comes down to set up, but I am quite pleased with it.

toysrus · Post by **toysrus** » Fri May 28, 2004 2:39 pm

NXTIME wrote:Those turbos v ET's are spot on to what I have found via research also. However, I currently have a TO4B with a 60-1 wheel and O-trim rear and seem to generate boost at about 2,200rpm using my 2L SOHC and standard cam. I am also using a ported standard manifold. I guess it all comes down to set up, but I am quite pleased with it.

OMG, TO4B 60-1 boost at 2200rpm

that is very well tuned indeed Nxtime

Any you were bagging my T88 dream :D

But realistically, don't the T04s' in general spool up better than the 20Gs' ?

What exhaust A/R could you run with a 2.3L SOHC, 9.0:1 CR to generate spool up at about 2500rpm and reach 15psi by around 4500-5000rpm ?

Btw, where can I find a calculator which calculates CR at certain boost levels with turbo cfm @ specific point etc ?

mrb1 · Post by **mrb1** » Fri May 28, 2004 5:36 pm

What about the concept that the Dynojet reads 15% higher than all the rest which are correct :roll:
If you had 5 temperaure gauges that all read the same except one would you choose it as being correct, I think not :D

quest · Post by **quest** » Sat May 29, 2004 12:54 am

cool,
well you guys know way more than this sorta stuff than I'd ever care to know. Mustang dynos sound similiar then.
I spend more time looking at end results. Low buget shops are turning out A LOT of very fast daily driven, STOCK longblock 4 cylinder cars... I'm talking about 550+ whp 2.0L street cars running sick quarter mile times. Never seen this level of performance before they had any sorta dyno, so would you say dynojet is somewhat effective ? I'd think so. Perhaps a better dyno would raise the bar, but in reality, the bottom line is that you don't ever hear anyone complaining.

I'm very curious how various turbos will perform on the 2.0 sohc vs the 2.0 dohc vs the 2.6.
NXTIME your results are interesting. Is that 0.70a/r or 0.58 on the hotside ? 2.6 guys have excellent results with that exact turbo (0.70)!
I'm thinking the 2.0 sohc share its characteristics more with the 2.6 than it does with the 2.0 dohc... what do u guys think ?

I've owned and modified ca18, 4ag, sr20, mazda 1.8, etc and have found favour with mitsu 4 cyl powerplants.

NXTIME · Post by **NXTIME** » Mon May 31, 2004 2:01 am

quest,

That is using a 0.70 a/r exhaust housing. I would love to get my hands on anything smaller. I am also using the standard cam for now and the car is not fully tuned yet. The turbo does start to make boost at 2,200 and generates fullboost 18-20psi by about 4,000. Hopefully a new cam and more tuning should improve this.

I would think that the 2.0 g63b sohc would share more in common with the dohc g63b than the 2.6 G54B.

Toysrus, there is a huge difference between a to4 60-1 and a t88 :D

For that set up, anything up to 0.86 would be sufficient. But exhaust a/r is only part of it. For eg, if the exhaust manifold was not designed well enough then you may have increased lag.

go to http://www.turbofast.com.au/javacalc.html for some engine/turbo/etc calculators

Ice Starion · Post by **Ice Starion** » Fri Jun 04, 2004 12:17 pm

NXTIME wrote:A P-trim exhaust wheel with 0.96 A/R is definitely too big for a sohc 2L. I wouldn't buy it. As hs been said above, a better combination would be either a t3 rear with a to4 front, or see if you can get your hands on a TD05-16G or a TD06.

how bad realy will the turbo preform and at what kind of rpm will it star making boost? can the wheels be changed to a lower rating? What kind of moddifacations would be needed to make it preform good? the reason why iam asking is because there arent many options open to me and i realy need the car

Austarion

T04B............

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