flywheel bolts

For all your twin cam conversion questions and hints
Post Reply
stariontron
I like starions more
Posts: 198
Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 11:12 pm
Location: auckland, NZ

flywheel bolts

Post by stariontron »

are these reuseable? i'm pretty much all ready to go back together... exciting times!
dirtygalant
nearly postwhore
Posts: 1446
Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2005 7:27 pm
Location: Sunny Brisbane Australia!

Post by dirtygalant »

yep they should be! I would dab them in loctite and torque them up to the proper specs though.
ImageImage
E39A Galant VR-4 Evolution | A164A Eterna GSR | 6G72 RWD Conversion Forum
User avatar
Lunacy
nearly postwhore
Posts: 1355
Joined: Fri Jul 22, 2005 3:31 pm
Location: Land of Confusion

Post by Lunacy »

^^^ What he said :) Unless theyre munched up at all they should be sweet torqued up with loctite
Image
stariontron
I like starions more
Posts: 198
Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 11:12 pm
Location: auckland, NZ

Post by stariontron »

cheers guys. a perfectly good day is wasting away outside while i wait on a loan click type torque wrench to arrive. not man enough to use my elderly (and severly uncalibrated) needle type
OLD FART
Austarion Occupant
Posts: 3448
Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2005 1:34 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by OLD FART »

I know this is an oldish topic but fwiw if you have some serious grunt ARP's are the way to go as my stroker stretched the stock bolts ( yes they were torqued to specs and locktited ) and stuffed the flywheel which rattled so badly I thought that the gearbox was broken :(
Last edited by OLD FART on Thu Mar 24, 2011 4:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
Lummy
I love starions
Posts: 494
Joined: Sat Jun 07, 2008 9:58 am
Location: Victoria

Post by Lummy »

Just don't be too liberal with the loctite - if you get loctite on the mating surfaces (flywheel and the crank flange), then you're just relying on the bolts themselves to do all the work - that wont last long. The majority of the strength comes from the two metals binding on each other - the bolts are just there to keep that contact consistent and strong. Surface must remain clean and dry with no possibility of any lubricating liquid in there.

I agree that ARP's are preferred, but having said that, I run stock bolts on my stroker motor and have never had any issues (and I've re-used them many times too).
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest