Bootlid alignment tips, sorting it 4 our prototype spoilers!
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- Austarion Occupant
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Bootlid alignment tips, sorting it 4 our prototype spoilers!
I'm attempting to get the alignment right with the bootlid so I can eventually fit the 3 piece spoiler to it but I'm having some issues.
Yes, I'm the guy that getting reproduction spoilers made. You know, the wrap around ones that you see on JDs and GSR-Vs.
Every time I attempt to get the gaps equal between the boot lid and the rear quarters (above the taillights) I tighten the bolts up then screw the bootlid gas struts back into the mounts and thats when everything moves.
It seems like I can never get the brackets that screw through the glass done up tight enough (even using a massive phillips head). Is there some way to do this effectively?
To further annoy me the lowest edge of the bootlid (above the number plate garnish) sits lower than the rear quarters even though there is a good condition rubber seal in place. If it only sat up 5mm higher it would provide a much better height compared to the sides for the 3 piece to look like it should.
Anyone had this issue and found a good solution?
Yes, I'm the guy that getting reproduction spoilers made. You know, the wrap around ones that you see on JDs and GSR-Vs.
Every time I attempt to get the gaps equal between the boot lid and the rear quarters (above the taillights) I tighten the bolts up then screw the bootlid gas struts back into the mounts and thats when everything moves.
It seems like I can never get the brackets that screw through the glass done up tight enough (even using a massive phillips head). Is there some way to do this effectively?
To further annoy me the lowest edge of the bootlid (above the number plate garnish) sits lower than the rear quarters even though there is a good condition rubber seal in place. If it only sat up 5mm higher it would provide a much better height compared to the sides for the 3 piece to look like it should.
Anyone had this issue and found a good solution?
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- I've been here before
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- Austarion Occupant
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Yeah, it's interesting you say that. It's like they've shrunk. What would be the solution? I've got other ones I can use off other bootlids but they're probably just as bad as the ones I'm using...
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- greenstaz82
- Mine is bigger than yours
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id start off with no struts mounted and no latch , just nip up the tailgate bolts .. just enough to move the gate around in the hole . push it around until u get the desired gaps then lift slowly and tighten bolts , refit latch and striker but make sure the two are contacting straight , if one or the other is off centre it will pull the gate to one side and alter your gaps u can adjust your height by doing this too . to be honest i dont think the fitment was that flash from new anyway :?
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- Austarion Occupant
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Thanks guys, here's the update and solution...
I found that one side didn't do up tight through the glass at all despite tightening the shit out of it, then when I went to undo it the bugger seized. After grinding through the rubber block to remove it I then went and swapped the hinges completely off another bootlid.
What a difference that made! It sits pretty equal distant on both sides now and sits up that bit higher over the taillights solving my other issue with it as well.
The long section on the hinge somehow actually bends and it throws the length and the height out too, the glass is virtually as close as it can be towards the roof as far as the adjustment allows and then the body ones are bolted up to get best alignment.
This was done without the lower catches and without the gas struts interfering as they were removed.
Took a while but got there in the end :)
I found that one side didn't do up tight through the glass at all despite tightening the shit out of it, then when I went to undo it the bugger seized. After grinding through the rubber block to remove it I then went and swapped the hinges completely off another bootlid.
What a difference that made! It sits pretty equal distant on both sides now and sits up that bit higher over the taillights solving my other issue with it as well.
The long section on the hinge somehow actually bends and it throws the length and the height out too, the glass is virtually as close as it can be towards the roof as far as the adjustment allows and then the body ones are bolted up to get best alignment.
This was done without the lower catches and without the gas struts interfering as they were removed.
Took a while but got there in the end :)
Reduce fuel costs by 15-20% & cut emissions by 1/3rd...
Increase engine performance & prolong engine life...
How?
Click the website button below & watch the 3 minute video.
Increase engine performance & prolong engine life...
How?
Click the website button below & watch the 3 minute video.
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yeah this was a design fuckup by mitsubishi i think..
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
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- Sargeant_Khan
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