EOI - Another batch of rear Thermostat adaptors

For all your twin cam conversion questions and hints
User avatar
1320ft
almost postwhore
Posts: 1071
Joined: Mon May 03, 2010 8:33 pm
Location: St Andrews NSW

Post by 1320ft »

I guess I'll need one!
The Forum Parts Guy

www.vibrantperformance.com for all your performance fabrication needs

IRS OUTLAW, 2.3L VR4 Powered X235 Drag Car

Here to run out of your life & take all your money!
Lummy
I love starions
Posts: 494
Joined: Sat Jun 07, 2008 9:58 am
Location: Victoria

Post by Lummy »

I'm out now. I just modified my present one to better suit my needs.
YellowJA
Dorifto!
Posts: 52
Joined: Sat Jul 11, 2009 9:51 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by YellowJA »

Have you got enough for an order?
User avatar
WANTSOM
Pushing my luck
Posts: 2115
Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 1:43 pm
Location: Sydney

Post by WANTSOM »

Not yet. Minimum of 10 required, prefer 15 and money paid up front as I dont have the cash available atm to cover any shortfall.

So far its -

YellowJA
Sucka
iXNAY
TurboSigma
1320fr
Callan_RS2000
Last edited by WANTSOM on Thu Aug 19, 2010 10:49 am, edited 3 times in total.
Never argue with an idiot, it brings you down to their level and they beat you with experience.
turbosigma
[L] Plates
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2007 3:23 pm

Post by turbosigma »

40mm thick?

can you mill lip for a thermostat to fit at the back of the adapter?

Whats the other side of the adapter look like anyway?
OLD FART
Austarion Occupant
Posts: 3448
Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2005 1:34 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by OLD FART »

turbosigma wrote:40mm thick?

can you mill lip for a thermostat to fit at the back of the adapter?

Whats the other side of the adapter look like anyway?
I'M sure that there are pics in the buy/sell section that were put up for the first batch that were made
Go to page 9 the pic of the red one is not exactly the same but close
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
User avatar
WANTSOM
Pushing my luck
Posts: 2115
Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2004 1:43 pm
Location: Sydney

Post by WANTSOM »

can you mill lip for a thermostat to fit at the back of the adapter?
No.

"If" another batch is run, the outlet pipe will be extended. The first batch was a "guess" as to the length, but we've all found that it was just that bit too short. I cant do bends on the outlet from production, my solution was to simply cut an angle and have it tigged to clear the inlet manifold nicely.
Never argue with an idiot, it brings you down to their level and they beat you with experience.
Anchor
I like starions more
Posts: 179
Joined: Mon May 18, 2009 7:50 pm
Location: Central Qld.

Post by Anchor »

I'm confused, 90% sure at the front of my head inbetween the cam gears there is a water outlet with thermostat etc....
Pigma - Nana spec GH sigma, 4g63t forged stroker, VR4 head, GT3582r...
OLD FART
Austarion Occupant
Posts: 3448
Joined: Sun Jun 19, 2005 1:34 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by OLD FART »

Anchor wrote:I'm confused, 90% sure at the front of my head inbetween the cam gears there is a water outlet with thermostat etc....
Jeri there is a welch plug there normally So if you have a t/stat housing there it has been modified and there has to be a blockoff plate at the back of the head
Project Zero G has pics
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
Lummy
I love starions
Posts: 494
Joined: Sat Jun 07, 2008 9:58 am
Location: Victoria

Post by Lummy »

Any machine shop will easily be able to machine a recess into the adaptor to suit a small thermostat, however it's not an ideal setup if you're talking about doing it at the flange of the adaptor against the head...

Ideally you want a temp sensor to be positioned prior to the thermostat so you can identify any over heating issues quickly. If you put the thermostat there with no way of bypassing it, you're playing with fire.

Conversely, it keeps the high-pressure side of the cooling system wholey within the engine, minimising any chances of a leak from a radiator hose.
User avatar
iXNAY
nearly postwhore
Posts: 1414
Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2005 2:30 pm
Location: Bathurst

Post by iXNAY »

i would highly recommend extending the screw in neck peice by 40mm - i extended mine by 30mm and wished i went 40mm.
SR20 powered starion what have I done..... :P
Anchor
I like starions more
Posts: 179
Joined: Mon May 18, 2009 7:50 pm
Location: Central Qld.

Post by Anchor »

Yep, i'm confused. I'll post a picture this arvo.
Pigma - Nana spec GH sigma, 4g63t forged stroker, VR4 head, GT3582r...
turbosigma
[L] Plates
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Jan 03, 2007 3:23 pm

Post by turbosigma »

Lummy wrote:Any machine shop will easily be able to machine a recess into the adaptor to suit a small thermostat, however it's not an ideal setup if you're talking about doing it at the flange of the adaptor against the head...
What I was thinking, but may as well ask before production starts.
Lummy wrote: Ideally you want a temp sensor to be positioned prior to the thermostat so you can identify any over heating issues quickly. If you put the thermostat there with no way of bypassing it, you're playing with fire.
Place the temp sensor at the welch plug - have removed it for a jayracing kit anyway (the kit gets in the way of my radiator / intercooler setup) - but no idea if that location would then give false temp readings.



Anyway, put me down for one - and can I get the size of the inlet to the adapter.
Anchor
I like starions more
Posts: 179
Joined: Mon May 18, 2009 7:50 pm
Location: Central Qld.

Post by Anchor »

This is what i am talking about. I assume its ok to run like this?

Was modified by Chris @ btl.

Image
Pigma - Nana spec GH sigma, 4g63t forged stroker, VR4 head, GT3582r...
redzone
racking my brains
Posts: 5900
Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:46 pm
Location: sunshine coast qld
Contact:

Post by redzone »

yeah thats just a different way of doing it. both ways have their advantages, i prefer the rear water outlet as you get a more even temp through the block having cold coming in one end and hot coming out the other.
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q

www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest