tams fuel cut problem.

All technical questions and answers regarding starions, being modifications to maintenance.
enthuzed
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Post by enthuzed »

I take it you are probably home now...

Checked your lines are okay (no leaks, cracks, it'll require a blowjob to check, something you should do at home not beside the road)

A stuffed MAP sensor perhaps. Is yours a metal or black plastic?
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RiceThief
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Post by RiceThief »

Also check your airflow meter, could be the cause of the flooding. Otherwise it could be an injector problem.
Starions are a disease, the only cure is poverty.

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Tamgesic
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Post by Tamgesic »

Ive been working on this prob for two weeks now .

Took me SIX hours to do a TWO hour drive at 40 km top speed farting and spluttering and back firing but yeah Im back ...

I kind of have other things I should be doing and this prob starting to make me a bit grouchy

Have done plugs, alternator, replaced any damaged leads, yesterday replaced coil, also sorted out a timing light and corrected the timing [ I had been betting it was that ..but no ] Staz really seems to be acting like timing is way out , with the distributor fully retarded im still getting 5 degrees of advance [ vacuum advance disconnected ] Tried retarding the distributor by one tooth and car would not start

today its ignitor

ANY ideas? The best way I can explain what its doing is that you put your foot down and once its past half throttle car will cough and splutter and bunny hop, wheels chirping , exhaust farting ...Its just BRILLIANT haha..yeah

At this point its been two weeks with no mechanics able to tell me prob and i have been spending all my time trying to figure it out . . at this point Im thinking about buying a new BPT engine and putting it back in my GTX and running that!...which i REALLY dont wanna do ..I like Starions more

HELP ? :cry:
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Tamgesic
I love starions
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Location: Whangarei n.z

Post by Tamgesic »

quick question.

how do i connect an ignitor/knock control unit from an ex(7 wire, e-101) to the 8 wire ignitor in my car which is a big metal box and has the older type round plugs on it. the wire connections are easy, but i need the pinout for the plugs so i dont get my wires mixed up
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enthuzed
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Post by enthuzed »

Can you see the wires on both boxes? Are the colours (with the exception of the one wire) identical?

The JB wiring diagram in the Technical section of the website might be the same or similar to the EX.

The one wire might be for the early model's knock sensor.

Having said all that, I'm purely speculating...
Reduce fuel costs by 15-20% & cut emissions by 1/3rd...
Increase engine performance & prolong engine life...
How?
Click the website button below & watch the 3 minute video.
RiceThief
my mangina paid for my staz
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Post by RiceThief »

before changing the ignitor make sure the dizzy is in correctly. To do this take off the cam cover to find the mark on the cam wheel. Turn the engine by hand until the mark on the cam wheel is level with the notch at 9 oclock. Check on your crank to see if the mark on the crank is at tdc, if they all line up your engine is at tdc on cyl 1. Now take a permanant marker pen and mark on your dizzy on the metal part of the dizzy just below the dizzy cap where the first cyl lead goes. Now take off the dizzy cap and see if the rotor is pointing at the right spot. If it doesnt you are a tooth out. Also while you have the dizzy cap off check the condition of the cap and the dizzy rotor, the metal shouldnt be corroded.
Starions are a disease, the only cure is poverty.

Project Grand Sport Racing Five
Tamgesic
I love starions
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Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 1:27 pm
Location: Whangarei n.z

Post by Tamgesic »

edit: i hve the dizzy in properly
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RiceThief
my mangina paid for my staz
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Post by RiceThief »

If the dizzy is in correctly then you will have to look to see if your injectors are working properly, they could be leaking and causing the engine to flood.
Starions are a disease, the only cure is poverty.

Project Grand Sport Racing Five
Tamgesic
I love starions
Posts: 399
Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 1:27 pm
Location: Whangarei n.z

Post by Tamgesic »

changed injectors today, to no avail. the old ones were leaking (when we pulled them out there was gas leaking from the end) and the car seems a mite smoother.

with the distributor turned all the way clockwise, the base timing sits at 8. (didnt have timing light today, so turned crank till marks were aligned with 8, and rotated dizzy till the contact thingies were in line. before this there was a tiny bit of pinging, so thats why i reset it. it feels very much like some sort of boost cut/spark cut going on.

is it worth replacing the knock sensor?
could it be head gasket or something else inside the engine?
Umbrella girls rock. That is all
RiceThief
my mangina paid for my staz
Posts: 2129
Joined: Thu Jan 15, 2004 1:23 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by RiceThief »

In your previous post you mention you changed the spark plugs and leads, but whats the condition of the dizzy cap and the rotor under it like?
Starions are a disease, the only cure is poverty.

Project Grand Sport Racing Five
Tamgesic
I love starions
Posts: 399
Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 1:27 pm
Location: Whangarei n.z

Post by Tamgesic »

dizzy cap and rotor is in good seco nd hand nick. i changed the one in my car for the one in the ex as it is possible to get cheaper parts(cap, rotor etc) for it. there was no difference between the two.

i am pretty definate it is hitting a boost cut. the car is getting 10 psi boost. still factory in every way. it does have an adjustable wastegate actuator arm though, which seems to be screwed an awfully long way out (making it longer) should i pull this in a couple turns? i have an fcd here to suit starion, would it maybe be worth putting that in just to see if it cures the problem?

that being said, there is still a slight misfire at idle now, but i suspect bad leads/incorrectly gapped plugs to be the culprit for that.
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enthuzed
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Post by enthuzed »

Tam, there's a way to check if your turbo is overboosting.
The length of the arm can be measured between the back of the mounting plate of the acutator to the centre of the waste gate valve lever.
It should measure 159mm.

And do yourself a favour and go and buy some new dizzy leads and plugs!

I had similar problems to you, I had an car that just wouldn't rev, carried on, etc, etc after installing a new engine. I checked timing, dizzy (swapped the whole lot to rule out the cap, button, etc) and leads by swapping from a good working car.
I got jacked off, and told myself to spend $15 on some new spark plugs.
And that's all that was wrong! It was like a totally different car!
The plugs I had been using came from a good runner (I mark all my bits as I go) from when I swapped them out, there was nothing wrong with them at the time and that's why I kept them. Go figure!
Reduce fuel costs by 15-20% & cut emissions by 1/3rd...
Increase engine performance & prolong engine life...
How?
Click the website button below & watch the 3 minute video.
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Vulpes
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Post by Vulpes »

enthuzed wrote:I take it you are probably home now...

, it'll require a blowjob to check, something you should do at home not beside the road)
I agree, I dont know what the po po are like in NZ but here in Oz they have a very dim view of this kind of thing being done beside the road. :oops:

If this is how you sort out starion issues I cant wait to tell the wife........lets see I've had about a million issues with my starions over the past 15 years, can I get them retrospectively rofl
Tamgesic
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Post by Tamgesic »

i have edited this post as my idiot flatmate put it up .apologies
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Tamgesic
I love starions
Posts: 399
Joined: Fri Apr 17, 2009 1:27 pm
Location: Whangarei n.z

Post by Tamgesic »

enthuzed wrote:
I got jacked off!
Does this mean something different in Oz?

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.p ... jacked+off
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