EDIT: I HAVE EDITED THE TITLE TO REFLECT THE DIRECTION THIS THREAD HAS TAKEN. RATHER THAN STARTING A NEW ONE
There was another post up about possible reasons why my Staz was running horribly and you guys figured it out! Brilliant
Yes my alternator is BADLY shot ...checked it with multi meter and readings were as low as 0.4!!!!
I have my alternator thats been pulled out of my 'spare parts beast' the euro EX model year 87 . Its a bit different...it still has the built in regulator same as my alt but it does not have a fan on the front..and differnt plugs which can be sorted with a bit of rewiring/connecting etc
*** Main question is .... will it all line up? will the altenator belt be in the right place ?right alignment? as if out even a little bit it wont work too well right?
If someone has done this before and knows that would be good as dont have time for a dummy fit and then hunting for another one if doesnt fit . I need to drive my car to aucks [ 5 hours return driving ] day after tomorrow so need this sorted asap.
**** Alternatively does anyone in Auckland have a spare alternator that comes off the gsr like mine? I might make it down with the stuffed one.
tams fuel cut problem.
tams fuel cut problem.
Last edited by Tamgesic on Mon Feb 15, 2010 6:12 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Umbrella girls rock. That is all
Tam,
How did you test the alternator? If you tested it in circuit then the lowest reading you should get is battery voltage somewhere around 12volts so couldn't read as low as 0.4 volts. You can't test the alternator by disconencting it's leads as it needs 12 volts from the battery to excite itself so it produces voltage and current.
Easiest way to test the alternator is to just measure the voltage acrosss the battery with the car going and when it's stopped. Voltage when stopped should be around 12.5 volts depending on how charged the battery is, when going the voltage should go up to 14 to 14.4 volts.
Also put the voltmeter in the car and connect it to earth and 12volts from the wire on the back of the cigarette lighter socket, then go for a drive and keep and eye on the voltage, it will vary a bit between 14.4 and around 13.5 depending on what electrics are used. i.e Brake lights, indicator. If is doesn't go below 13v ish then the alternator is more than likely ok, if it drops to the same voltage or less that you measured with the car off then yes it is faulty (or the wiring is faulty).
How did you test the alternator? If you tested it in circuit then the lowest reading you should get is battery voltage somewhere around 12volts so couldn't read as low as 0.4 volts. You can't test the alternator by disconencting it's leads as it needs 12 volts from the battery to excite itself so it produces voltage and current.
Easiest way to test the alternator is to just measure the voltage acrosss the battery with the car going and when it's stopped. Voltage when stopped should be around 12.5 volts depending on how charged the battery is, when going the voltage should go up to 14 to 14.4 volts.
Also put the voltmeter in the car and connect it to earth and 12volts from the wire on the back of the cigarette lighter socket, then go for a drive and keep and eye on the voltage, it will vary a bit between 14.4 and around 13.5 depending on what electrics are used. i.e Brake lights, indicator. If is doesn't go below 13v ish then the alternator is more than likely ok, if it drops to the same voltage or less that you measured with the car off then yes it is faulty (or the wiring is faulty).
1988 Mitsubishi Starion EX Widebody
1987 Mitsubishi Starion EX
1991 Mitsubishi L200 Double Cab Sport
2010 Holden Colorado Ute
1987 Mitsubishi Starion EX
1991 Mitsubishi L200 Double Cab Sport
2010 Holden Colorado Ute
Pretty crazy huh? Dont worry I did EXACTLY what you said man! and had a mate with me who has done this stuff before too.
Yes my battery is fine..put multi over it without car running and read 12.35 [ almost on target of 12.4 ]
Then put multi over battery while car running...should have read 14.o or 14.4 cant remeber anyway at first it was readinf 7.0 then as pull on throttle cable it was ducking in an out and all over show ..down to 5 thewn 3 then lowest 04!! then back up again
Meaning that my car will not even be gettin spark at times which is why its driving so bad .
Does that make sense??
Yes my battery is fine..put multi over it without car running and read 12.35 [ almost on target of 12.4 ]
Then put multi over battery while car running...should have read 14.o or 14.4 cant remeber anyway at first it was readinf 7.0 then as pull on throttle cable it was ducking in an out and all over show ..down to 5 thewn 3 then lowest 04!! then back up again
Meaning that my car will not even be gettin spark at times which is why its driving so bad .
Does that make sense??
Last edited by Tamgesic on Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
Umbrella girls rock. That is all
I fitted the later style alternator in my 83 and fits fine.
I had to add a diode to one of the connections or my engine would keep running after i took out the key.
And offcourse you need a new plug since it's different.
I took the alternator from a Colt, simply because tons of those around on the local junkyard.
I had to add a diode to one of the connections or my engine would keep running after i took out the key.
And offcourse you need a new plug since it's different.
I took the alternator from a Colt, simply because tons of those around on the local junkyard.
-------------------------------------------
83 2000EX runner.
88 2.0 Black Widebody DOHC evo 6 turbo at 1.7 bar
88 2.6 White Widebody. spun a bearing.
06 2.0 Lancer Wagon. daily driver.
83 2000EX runner.
88 2.0 Black Widebody DOHC evo 6 turbo at 1.7 bar
88 2.6 White Widebody. spun a bearing.
06 2.0 Lancer Wagon. daily driver.
Tamgesic wrote: Then put multi over battery while car running...should have read 14.o or 14.4 cant remeber anyway at first it was readinf 7.0 then as pull on throttle cable it was ducking in an out and all over show ..down to 5 thewn 3 then lowest 04!! then back up again
hmm.. to the more experienced guys, could this be an indication of dodgy wiring rather than shot alternator?
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
The guy I bought it off said I had to turn key a million times to start because of?..you guessed ' dodgy wiring' but I had asked a couple of people and they said no.
So thanks for reminding me what guy who sold it to me had to say.
Ill look into it!
thrash , kiwi ex your legends
So thanks for reminding me what guy who sold it to me had to say.
Ill look into it!
thrash , kiwi ex your legends
Last edited by Tamgesic on Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:23 am, edited 1 time in total.
Umbrella girls rock. That is all
don't thank me yet.. i might be completely off track..
and pray that it's not dodgy wiring.. that's the hardest/most annoying part of any car to fix.
and pray that it's not dodgy wiring.. that's the hardest/most annoying part of any car to fix.
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
Aw really? and here I thought I had a fix all sorted with a change of alternator coming up tomorrow ..
Last edited by Tamgesic on Thu Feb 04, 2010 6:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
Umbrella girls rock. That is all
well let's hope the alternator swap resolves the issues :beer
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
-
panda
- Enthusiast
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- Location: Mount Gambier, South Australia
I've said this before on this forum, that far too many electrical issues are due to poor earthing, somewhere.
In your case, check that the earthing cable from the engine block to the body is clean & secure. Sometimes fitting a second earthing cable can improve things, especially if one isn't secure.
Also when checking the battery volts with the engine running, I use an 'old school' analogue multi-meter which isn't effected by ignition pulses which cause erratic readings on some of the digital meters.
Also Kiwi_EX post on testing is spot on.
If the volts are erratic, like varying from 12 to 14 volts, then it could be as simple as fitting new brushes to your existing alternator.
Good luck
panda
In your case, check that the earthing cable from the engine block to the body is clean & secure. Sometimes fitting a second earthing cable can improve things, especially if one isn't secure.
Also when checking the battery volts with the engine running, I use an 'old school' analogue multi-meter which isn't effected by ignition pulses which cause erratic readings on some of the digital meters.
Also Kiwi_EX post on testing is spot on.
If the volts are erratic, like varying from 12 to 14 volts, then it could be as simple as fitting new brushes to your existing alternator.
Good luck
panda
Dreams have no limits.
1982 JA - Ex Enthuzed
1982 JA - For Sale - pending
1983 JA - Ex Auto-cross car - being parted out
1983 JA - Being parted out
1984 JA - Rolling shell - For Sale
1985 JB - Rally car project
1985 JB - Autocross car
1985 JB - Week-end cruiser
1982 JA - Ex Enthuzed
1982 JA - For Sale - pending
1983 JA - Ex Auto-cross car - being parted out
1983 JA - Being parted out
1984 JA - Rolling shell - For Sale
1985 JB - Rally car project
1985 JB - Autocross car
1985 JB - Week-end cruiser
Xentro from Holland ...you rock man!
haha changed the alternator [ put my 87 ex one in ] ..and had same prob ...car kept running! [ I had help with this one and had my mate stumped for quite some time before i got him to read your post!] But when you touch wires together it would read the proper reading of 14 but as soon as you turn car off the next time you turn car on it would go back to the erratic or low reading .
Gonna sort diode out tomorrow ...fricken last minute too before my trip down the line !
Finger crossed an auto sparky will know what im on about and just quickly do it for me
Greetings to Holland!! haha
haha changed the alternator [ put my 87 ex one in ] ..and had same prob ...car kept running! [ I had help with this one and had my mate stumped for quite some time before i got him to read your post!] But when you touch wires together it would read the proper reading of 14 but as soon as you turn car off the next time you turn car on it would go back to the erratic or low reading .
Gonna sort diode out tomorrow ...fricken last minute too before my trip down the line !
Finger crossed an auto sparky will know what im on about and just quickly do it for me
Greetings to Holland!! haha
Umbrella girls rock. That is all
ok need someones help asap.
I am meant to be happily cruising in my Staz for a much needed weekend away right at this moment.
This morning when i left home as soon as I started car black smoke came pouring out exhaust. As I drove down road it did what its only been doing occasionally the whole drive. I drove for about 7 minutes with it shuddering and bunny hopping type jerking over the place , black smoke pouring out ....and then it died. .I was left stranded on side of road just like I didnt want to happen
When I tried to start it again it gave off a big spark type bang . there would be no vacuum and it would just die.
$170 later and I have paid for a tow truck to a mechanics and two hours of his 'time' he fixed alt so car would turn off and said battery was charging low so he put somwething in to fix that but still is. He said the car is running now ,,it will drive but boy it will be running rich and is still running rich as hell .....Im thinking to myself 'mate I just paid you to tell me something I already KNOW?'
He thinks it may be the manifold pressure sensor [ the box on firewall on drivers side [ about the size of a deck of cards ]
Thats all he could tell me . He said he didnt wanna keep looking around and have to charge me more ....this guy is the best mechanic/ auto sparky in whangarei !!
I dont wanna be stuck on side of road in Auckland ..anyone got a quick plan before i leave?
I am meant to be happily cruising in my Staz for a much needed weekend away right at this moment.
This morning when i left home as soon as I started car black smoke came pouring out exhaust. As I drove down road it did what its only been doing occasionally the whole drive. I drove for about 7 minutes with it shuddering and bunny hopping type jerking over the place , black smoke pouring out ....and then it died. .I was left stranded on side of road just like I didnt want to happen
When I tried to start it again it gave off a big spark type bang . there would be no vacuum and it would just die.
$170 later and I have paid for a tow truck to a mechanics and two hours of his 'time' he fixed alt so car would turn off and said battery was charging low so he put somwething in to fix that but still is. He said the car is running now ,,it will drive but boy it will be running rich and is still running rich as hell .....Im thinking to myself 'mate I just paid you to tell me something I already KNOW?'
He thinks it may be the manifold pressure sensor [ the box on firewall on drivers side [ about the size of a deck of cards ]
Thats all he could tell me . He said he didnt wanna keep looking around and have to charge me more ....this guy is the best mechanic/ auto sparky in whangarei !!
I dont wanna be stuck on side of road in Auckland ..anyone got a quick plan before i leave?
Umbrella girls rock. That is all
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