Drifting a Starion.

All technical questions and answers regarding starions, being modifications to maintenance.
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CARR-E
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Drifting a Starion.

Post by CARR-E »

Hey all long time since i've been on here. update. i've welded the diff built some coil overs and been out to the track for some drift pracs. ive set up my suspension a few diff ways but im still not getting the best results. i can't keep the drift happening i either understeer or (Mostly) ovrsteer to much and spin out. On changing my front wheels i noticed the caster rods where 'polished'. ive looked up a few rack and pinion conversions but would still like some more input on what to do.
redzone
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Post by redzone »

what wheel size/offset are you running? what spring rates? have you adjusted the lock stops? what engine/clutch setup? what have you done with the handbrake?
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
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RiceThief
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Post by RiceThief »

Are you able to adjust your camber and caster? Look at getting a wheel alignment if you havent done so already. Also how are you steering into the slide? It sounds like you arent correcting fast enough when the rear actually slides. If you are trying to steer by holding on the steering wheel and turning it to make the correction you find that you wont be able to do it fast enough and then spin out. Instead as you feel the back coming out, let the steering wheel go and let it correct itself, then catch it when you feel you have enough steering angle. If it comes back the other way you have over-corrected, if you spin then you havent let the steering wheel get enough angle. Importantly its all about the practice.
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enthuzed
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Post by enthuzed »

RiceThief wrote:It sounds like you arent correcting fast enough when the rear actually slides. If you are trying to steer by holding on the steering wheel and turning it to make the correction you find that you wont be able to do it fast enough and then spin out. Instead as you feel the back coming out, let the steering wheel go and let it correct itself, then catch it when you feel you have enough steering angle. If it comes back the other way you have over-corrected, if you spin then you havent let the steering wheel get enough angle. Importantly its all about the practice.
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jk
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Post by jk »

+1 for Redzones wheel/tyre/offset/lock stop hints regarding polished caster rods

+1 for RiceThief's wheel technique hints

If your new to drift driving, I would say your just finding the short wheel base and even front to rear weight distribution a challenge.

These vehicle traits make for a very twitchy drift car, highlighted by your snap understeer or oversteer experience, and the popularity of larger(longer) vehicles with a bigger engine up front for learning to drift.

I would recommend a few regular track days in the car just to familiarize yourself with driving the car fast, particularly high corner entry speeds, learning to feel it's limits of traction front and rear.
It would also be a good idea to try and have a more experienced drift driver take the car out for a few laps (with you passenger) to give you an idea on how to tackle the car from a driving perspective (and maybe some setup advice).

GOOD LUCK, wish I was taking my Starion out to a few drift days.
jb - white outside maroon inside
CARR-E
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Post by CARR-E »

running 17x8 standard of set. twim cam head on staz block with vr4 turbo on 10psi standard injectors micro tech lt10 comp. have custom coil overs running 300pound in front 260 in back with koni adjustable dampers. and camber plates up front running -2.5 deg camber and my wheel alignment is setup for my streetable than driftable. Hand brake was useless to me but ive got a hydro one to put in once i get some free time.
redzone
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Post by redzone »

nice, you have a good setup on paper, and the hydro handbrake is a necessity, the stock one will not consistently lock the rears at 100..
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q

www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
CARR-E
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Post by CARR-E »

update on drifting so far. found my problem with the hand brake issue.left rear caliper is seized up. having trouble mounting hydro hand brake and my drifting pals ( mainly Mic Truscott and the Shaw performance twins) recommend bigger or X2 sway bars for the back and a drop in coilover height all which is now in progress. but i also need help with my steering box. its fucked out!! want to know where and if i can get a new/exchange one or a rebuild kit for one? :beer
dirty sanchez
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Post by dirty sanchez »

I would get a widebody one from the states, they are only 2.5 turns lock to lock (compared to around 4 for a Aus delivered starion) and more suited to drifting.
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

really? hmmmm :twisted:
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
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Post by benny »

if your snap over steering i wouldn't be stiffening the rear any more..
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CARR-E
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Post by CARR-E »

i'm also axle tramping heaps too. i thought bigger sway bar would help tramp as well as snap oversteer. i can always sorften my dampers and springs too.
JA83
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Post by JA83 »

want a starion CIG locker for $50 buks?

btw i had the red one at the last prac day :D
CARR-E
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Post by CARR-E »

does it come with axle's?
JA83
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Post by JA83 »

nope sorry mate. just the diff itself. its been welded for that last prac day and now has no use to me. also have a pair of average seats if your interested?
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