KITS new engine bay

juice_2 · Post by **juice_2** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 11:08 am

copy of a yank manifold!!! that explains why your turbo looks like its about to bitch slap the b/ master off off the booster. did you compensate in the design for the fact all the c/master,b/master and steering box is on the left in yank cars? underslung rams horn would have been better. oh and the faster the flow the more heat generated just common thermal physics really.

davidbek95 · Post by **davidbek95** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 12:51 pm

Gary, don't worry about what others say as everyone always got a better idea on how you should do this and that,when i had my starion my setup
was very simular to yours,i never had a heat guard around my clutch or brake master cylinders for 5 years,i changed my fluids once a year instead of once every 2 years,i bet my bottom dollar that most of the guys on here have not change there brake and clutch fluids sense they brought there cars and they really don't know how old there fluids are,a person share his mods here and what does he get.Gary u feel better now.
regards david :beer

kit · Post by **kit** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 7:12 pm

Ok maybe my words don't come out right but the engine bay its self is alot cooler all that hpc coating was doing was heating up my engine bay.

Old set up fucked my steering box and not once but twice it generated that much heat and heated up my positive connection to the alternator melted the solder and hit the ground sparked hit my oil return to the turbo drained my oil.
Lucky my car didn't catch on fire
Lucky my engine didn't blow up

Lets worry about a heat sheild it has spend alot of hours on the dyno and seems to be fine.
Also I had bad earthing which required constant tunning

Should I A stick with the old set up or
B stick with new set up

It has never ran right for more than 2 months straight I know when I paid for the original set up i didn't ask for a cheap price.
This car has cost me over $80,000 over the years its not like I'm trying to cut corners.

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 8:16 pm

Garry -

A) your steering box that was on the car originally was rooted, it had about 2 inches of play while driving. it was like that before i ever laid a spanner on it! the one that you've just replaced was installed in late 2004.

B) We'll see how things go heat wise once they start cranking some numbers out of it! It's all well and good to say it makes less heat now, but power = heat unfortunately. when it makes the power, judge it then.

C) i havnt worked on this car for over 3 years, you've had it to at least 3 different places doing stuff on it since. The last time i looked at it, there were cables and hoses all over the shop on the drivers side, that hadnt been put back where they were supposed to be, it doesnt surprise me that you have had issues mate when hoses/cables were running next to the exhaust..

When you originally talked to me in 2003 you wanted to get the car in fast fours which they wouldnt let you because the engine bay looked like shit and it was as slow as a wet week, you wanted a heap more power, (which it got) it to look awesome under the bonnet (which it did), to be more reliable than it was (which it was while i was looking after it), and to have more bottom end response than the stock setup (which it did, the 2871R made boost & power earlier than the TC06) You never had problems with it while i was looking after it Garry, only when you became too busy to bring it up here did shit go wrong. think about it.

I put my heart and soul into your car for 2 years, your car is the main reason my Gemini is not finished, i put your project before my own. It was my no 1 priority in my spare time and now i'm regretting ever having done any work on it.

kit · Post by **kit** » Sat Dec 05, 2009 10:31 pm

A) That steering was a fully rebiult one i spent over $2500 on the steering it wasn't rooted the manifold has a wear mark on it where it was touching the steering box.
B) It aver 200kw now waiting to sent computer com chip is faulty tunning is 1/2 done and safe no ignition timming yet.
C) It been to 2 places before this dyno tunning because it could never stay tunned because of the wiring problems and earthing problems, and the auto electric's also the original rubber hoses you put on were rubber and the heat from the oil made them go hard and crack so i replaced them with braided lines.
As for bringing it up there you don't have a dyno to tune it. Every time it went to the Dyno tunners someting would brake so he would fix it eg. the ass end of the planium blew out and needed to be rewelded, hoses and air leaks maybe I would of saved money if it was done right the first time.
These issues didn't come out of your back pocket only mine, it's not like I asked for a cheap price I wanted it done properly.
I'm pretty sure I run a sucessful business If a customer of mine is not happy we redo the service if still not happy it is 100% FREE

Sargeant_Khan · Post by **Sargeant_Khan** » Sun Dec 06, 2009 12:19 am

:roll:

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Sun Dec 06, 2009 7:32 am

Garry i could afford to redo your whole car if i charged $25000 for a nights work like you do

and no, that manifold didnt touch, or come close to touching the steering box when i built it. something has moved.

OLD FART · Post by **OLD FART** » Sun Dec 06, 2009 7:14 pm

C'mon guys how about ending all this bickering and move on :(
You have both put your point of view on the forum and it appears that you may have to agree to disagree

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Sun Dec 06, 2009 8:30 pm

I agree rad, it does no one any good..

kit · Post by **kit** » Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:05 pm

I agree the money came out of my back pocket.

MrBishi · Post by **MrBishi** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 6:36 am

"Can't we all just get along?"

Sargeant_Khan · Post by **Sargeant_Khan** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 1:29 pm

Gary, look at it this way. If you go to clean up someones dog shit or whatever it is you do, and they have just had a few people there doing the same job but ur wanting money off the people, your always going to say "OH MATE, shoulda called me first, this is ratshit. I woulda looked after you" just like anyone with a trade or their own business does, they always shit talk whoever worked on it first and like red said, it has been here and there since then.

Red (redzone not groupa) is always on here helping everyone mechanically and not charging for it, and I think we can all agree, originally the work was top notch, you werent complaining when it was done, he cant guarantee it for life, especially when your heard talking about how you flog it (the car I mean).

This community is to small to be talking like that about each other. You guys used to be best buds, You guys loved to hang out at "the beat" together.
Lets get back to that. Please think about what I have said.

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Mon Dec 07, 2009 5:58 pm

just cant leave well enough alone eh garry? i was gonna let these points slide, but oh well..

kit wrote:A) That steering was a fully rebiult one i spent over $2500 on the steering it wasn't rooted the manifold has a wear mark on it where it was touching the steering box.

who did u spend $2500 with? certainly wasnt me. and maybe the engine mount sagged, as i stated above, the manifold WASNT anywhere near touching when i built the car.

B) It aver 200kw now waiting to sent computer com chip is faulty tunning is 1/2 done and safe no ignition timming yet.

200kw at the wheels is a lot different to 260

C) It been to 2 places before this dyno tunning because it could never stay tunned because of the wiring problems and earthing problems, and the auto electric's also the original rubber hoses you put on were rubber and the heat from the oil made them go hard and crack so i replaced them with braided lines.
As for bringing it up there you don't have a dyno to tune it. Every time it went to the Dyno tunners someting would brake so he would fix it eg. the ass end of the planium blew out and needed to be rewelded, hoses and air leaks maybe I would of saved money if it was done right the first time.
These issues didn't come out of your back pocket only mine, it's not like I asked for a cheap price I wanted it done properly.
I'm pretty sure I run a sucessful business If a customer of mine is not happy we redo the service if still not happy it is 100% FREE

ok the original turbo water lines were 100% WHAT YOU TOLD ME TO PUT ON, as you didnt want to stump up for braided ones when i originally did the car. when they leaked I said I TOLD YOU SO, as i had recommended braided right from the get go. it was towards the end of the build, and yes, YOU wanted the cheaper option as you were sick of spending money on it..

ALSO, i just remembered that you had an alternator conversion done BY YOUR AUTO ELECTRICIAN to a bosch alternator about 2 years ago or so, when your $30000 stereo was demanding more than the 1982 built stock starion one could pull, i'm betting that the cause of your alternator terminal desoldering and shitting itself was caused by the bosch alternator having the main positive terminal a LOT closer to the exhaust manifold than the stock starion one that was on the car WHEN I BUILT THE MANIFOLD!!!!!!

PS dont think your new workshop is faultless, they stuffed up a mate's haltech install recently...

kit · Post by **kit** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 9:14 am

I don't want to start a list but that alternator was put on in 2002 and I have receipts to prove it every thing is a fucking excuse your work was perfect you did nothing wrong everyone on this forum you have done work on there cars have been 100% happy thats why they all continually use you

Entaran · Post by **Entaran** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:50 am

Can someone lock and/or delete this thread? It's a disgrace.

Austarion

KITS new engine bay

gary

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