Alright,
Now I've got the DASH G63B Engine
Anyhow, before the problem got alot worse as it is now, I would drive around normally, rev hard in 3rd/ then slot it in 5th and basically under no throttle it would blow out clear white smoke a fair bit, drop it to 4th rev it a bit, smoke would then go away, put it in 5th and it'ld be fine.
Or I would be boosting in 4th up a hill etc, then going down the hill, slot it in 5th and the white smoke again would start coming out of the exhaust.
It only just got really really bad a few days ago, I started the car up and straight away it had a really really rough idle, it was basically black or some dark smoke coming out, not much but enough to see it and know something was wrong.
Anyhow, so I drive it around and it doesn't go away, usually at start up a quick rev would clear up the rough idel and it'll be fine but it didn't go away this time.
I checked my coolant and yes it was dissapearing somewhere, plus my fuel economy went right out the window aswell.
Assuming it was a head gasket, I procede to pull my head off and replace the gasket only to be dissapointed and find out the old one was fine, so I put the new one in, do everything up and am now waiting for my battery to recharge before I see whats up.
How could I be loosing fuel & water at the same time ?
The pistons looked fine as did the combustion chambers unless I should have checked something else ?
Also when I was taking the head off without removing the inlet manifold, some coolant appear on top of the oil in cyl 2 and 3, could it have just spilt from somewhere or is the head cracked somewhere ? :(
Smokey question, maybe cracked head :(
Just cos you cant see a break in the gasket doesn't mean it isn't leaking.
Did you have a look at the head for cracks before you put it back together? Also you're supposed to check for straightness, etc before putting it back on (not that I did the first time I changed head gasket
)
Do it all up, fire it up and see how you go.
Did you have a look at the head for cracks before you put it back together? Also you're supposed to check for straightness, etc before putting it back on (not that I did the first time I changed head gasket
)Do it all up, fire it up and see how you go.
That's the point, I only looking in the combustion chamber area but I think I should have been looking else where right ?
Even if there was a cracked it should only start to become rough once the head/engine has warmed up and the crack become wider right ?
I didn't check straightness, but because there was coolant and I didn't lose all of it. plus I keep an eye on the temp gauge, it should have been fine.
It should only warp when it becomes overheated right ?
Even if there was a cracked it should only start to become rough once the head/engine has warmed up and the crack become wider right ?
I didn't check straightness, but because there was coolant and I didn't lose all of it. plus I keep an eye on the temp gauge, it should have been fine.
It should only warp when it becomes overheated right ?
Personally I doubt it would have been a crack in the head. Not having seen a crack in a head myself I would assume between chamber and a water jacket?
If you have only been losing coolant for a week or so and the level didn't drop say below the fins in the top of the radiator then you should be ok. If you drove and turned it off then started it after 10 minutes or so of sitting, did it run rough or blow steam out the exhaust? Could be a leak where gas leaks from the combustion chamber to the cooling system and pressurises it, then when you stop the pressure equalises by the coolant being pumped back in to the com'n chamber.
Heads warp for different reasons. Overheating helps. When was it last machined flat? etc etc. You should be right.
If you have only been losing coolant for a week or so and the level didn't drop say below the fins in the top of the radiator then you should be ok. If you drove and turned it off then started it after 10 minutes or so of sitting, did it run rough or blow steam out the exhaust? Could be a leak where gas leaks from the combustion chamber to the cooling system and pressurises it, then when you stop the pressure equalises by the coolant being pumped back in to the com'n chamber.
Heads warp for different reasons. Overheating helps. When was it last machined flat? etc etc. You should be right.
The coolant was above the fins before I topped it up. So in between the combustion chamber and the water jacket ?Alspos wrote:Personally I doubt it would have been a crack in the head. Not having seen a crack in a head myself I would assume between chamber and a water jacket?
If you have only been losing coolant for a week or so and the level didn't drop say below the fins in the top of the radiator then you should be ok.
Don't know, haven't had a problem with it for yonks :D unlike some others here.Alspos wrote:If you drove and turned it off then started it after 10 minutes or so of sitting, did it run rough or blow steam out the exhaust? Could be a leak where gas leaks from the combustion chamber to the cooling system and pressurises it, then when you stop the pressure equalises by the coolant being pumped back in to the com'n chamber.
Heads warp for different reasons. Overheating helps. When was it last machined flat? etc etc. You should be right.
It would run rough and blow out black/dark soot etc, not heavily or very thick but I could see it and it smelt bad aswell.
When my staz had a cracked head it had cracked under the cam on the 3rd cylinder so cooland would leak out on the top of the head and would end up in my oil.
check your dipstick for increase in oil and check the filler cap for foam
By the way my head was cracked all the way though so some ended up in the intake ports with nice white smoke as a result
check your dipstick for increase in oil and check the filler cap for foam
By the way my head was cracked all the way though so some ended up in the intake ports with nice white smoke as a result
Update: I ripped the head off again and got it pressure tested, checked out fine, but it was slightly bent, 5 thou isn't that like a 1/4 of a mm ?
Would that be enough to suck in coolant ?
Also my coolant resovoir bottle seems to have some of the coolant from the radiator in it, cause its overfilled by a fair amount.
The actually coolant, had gone a light brown thick mucky colour......don't know what to make of that yet ?
If it was the block, wouldn't it have the rough idle etc after it warmed up and the crack enlargened, because I can't even see the slightest crack with my naked eye along the walls, this is a 4G63 VR4 bottom end by the way.................
Or would it be more likely to be the turbo as it is oil and water cooled ?
Trying to figure out if I should get the turbo pressure tested somehow before the block or vice versa ?
Would that be enough to suck in coolant ?
Also my coolant resovoir bottle seems to have some of the coolant from the radiator in it, cause its overfilled by a fair amount.
The actually coolant, had gone a light brown thick mucky colour......don't know what to make of that yet ?
If it was the block, wouldn't it have the rough idle etc after it warmed up and the crack enlargened, because I can't even see the slightest crack with my naked eye along the walls, this is a 4G63 VR4 bottom end by the way.................
Or would it be more likely to be the turbo as it is oil and water cooled ?
Trying to figure out if I should get the turbo pressure tested somehow before the block or vice versa ?
might help?
not sure if this will help but Ill put my two bob in aswell, My head/block is warped (not straight) so Ive got about 25-35 psi in me radiator an little bubbels flooting too the top constantly plus I stuck a compresion teaster in its guts an came up with 155psi in 1,2,3 an 4 has 125 psi. Thats how I determin if the head isn't sealing properly.
Also yar mentioned that yar were going through a lot of fuel an having trubble with white smoke. I just stoped those sysmtoms with replacing a stuffed O ring in the fuel system.
an also with the cars comprestion the way it is, its not runing just to bad, not as good as it use to but she dosn't run rough when cold or warm, It use to run rough when cold with the old O ring.
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Ford Vn Platform Picture
Also yar mentioned that yar were going through a lot of fuel an having trubble with white smoke. I just stoped those sysmtoms with replacing a stuffed O ring in the fuel system.
an also with the cars comprestion the way it is, its not runing just to bad, not as good as it use to but she dosn't run rough when cold or warm, It use to run rough when cold with the old O ring.
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Ford Vn Platform Picture
Last edited by Rassy on Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
well not sure what yar call realy bad I was getting 250-300 out of a tank an even less in town.
Just do a compresion test an that will tell yar if the heads no good
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NIGEL MANSELL
Just do a compresion test an that will tell yar if the heads no good
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NIGEL MANSELL
Last edited by Rassy on Wed Feb 16, 2011 9:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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