GH Pigma. VR4 Head + Forged Stroker..

RiceThief · Post by **RiceThief** » Fri May 29, 2009 7:22 pm

Far out mega abused clutch :o

Anchor · Post by **Anchor** » Tue Jun 30, 2009 12:10 pm

Should probably update this.

I'll have my new clutch back soon. Doug @ NPC is re-drilling my flywheel to fit a skyline size clutch. 5 puck brass button ceramic... Should be good for my hp goal.

Block is off to sheps (good engine shop in town) tomorrow to get sussed out.

AEM water/meth kit is on its way from the states.
Also bought a turbo blanket, and getting the exhaust housing coated in HPC black.

Box should come out this week if i get time, as well as the diff for some welding..

Hoping to be back on the road and running about 400rwhp before powercruise in september :D

Anchor · Post by **Anchor** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 7:28 pm

Change of plans...

Piston/Bore clearance on no.3 is too far gone. Can't sleeve just 1 cylinder. Cost $800 to sleeve all 4. I could get a new block and just bore that out.. Or...

$685 - Wiseco – K571M86 – 86.00 bore – 8.8 comp ratio - suit 100mm stroke
$435 - Eagle – H Beam connecting rods - CRS5900MA3D – 5.900 Length

+ a 4g64 100m stroke crank from somewhere... ?? Don't feel like paying $900 for one.

This is getting expensive.. Haha

But i won't need water/meth to reach my 400rwhp+ goal. Which also saves $800 not including setup and extra tuning time..

The way i see it, i'm even?? Lol

hoongirl · Post by **hoongirl** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 8:34 pm

I've got a bit of a soft spot for GH sigmas – had a nice one myself that I was thinking about putting a Starion engine into.... but thought I may as well buy a Starion instead. Here she is:

*sigh* I loved that car.

Astron Boy · Post by **Astron Boy** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 9:33 pm

Yeah, I had a GH as well, became an offroad cabrio due to damage and havent seen it since 2005 :(
Still have a front cut under my house which was supposed to fix it

docile · Post by **docile** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 9:47 am

Anchor wrote:Change of plans...

Piston/Bore clearance on no.3 is too far gone. Can't sleeve just 1 cylinder. Cost $800 to sleeve all 4. I could get a new block and just bore that out.. Or...

$685 - Wiseco – K571M86 – 86.00 bore – 8.8 comp ratio - suit 100mm stroke
$435 - Eagle – H Beam connecting rods - CRS5900MA3D – 5.900 Length

+ a 4g64 100m stroke crank from somewhere... ?? Don't feel like paying $900 for one.

This is getting expensive.. Haha

But i won't need water/meth to reach my 400rwhp+ goal. Which also saves $800 not including setup and extra tuning time..

The way i see it, i'm even?? Lol

Some wise words of advice. Firstly get another block and have it re-bored, should cost well under $400. Possibly get some new rings for your ROSS pistons so that you essentially have a rebuilt bottom end once all is said and done for $500.

Stroking it out to 2.4L isn't going to get you more power, it is just going to decrease peak combustion pressures and therefore improve reliability along with spooling the Turbo another 800rpm sooner.

You really need a custom camshaft, not a regrind.. something like 270deg and 13+mm of lift because 225kw @ 23psi shows you have a VE deficiency, which OLD_Farts head will improve and so will a custom camshaft.

If power is still below 300rwkw after that, then that means you need to sort out either the Intake manifold or exhaust manifold.

:beer

OLD FART · Post by **OLD FART** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 10:56 am

I just happen to have a specially ground cam for a SOHC stroker that was going in my stroker before the DOHC swap started :D
Billet cams are NOT available for SOHC :(
If you want a wild cam then you have to get the lobes built up by welding them up and then ground to whatever profile you want $$$$$$$$$$$$$
Jeri is not taking any shortcuts and will be spending $$$$$$$$ and doing it properly :beer

Anchor · Post by **Anchor** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 11:11 am

Being an oldschool V8 man. I always thought the usual 'no replacement for displacement' would have effect on a 4cyl too.

Eg, rads head made way more power on less psi with a stroker bottom end. Now i'm thinking he can't gain 40rwhp with 6psi less boost just due to a different head.. Has to have something to do with the extra displacement right?

My exhaust manifold is neat and equal length. Intake is a decent one too with a good size plenum.

Also, the pistons have been getting really hot so i don't know if that is too good for them.. Can't hurt to get new ones?

Anchor · Post by **Anchor** » Fri Jul 03, 2009 11:12 am

I may talk to you about that cam too rad, seen it in the forsale section.

Although i just payed for my clutch.. $825 later haha

docile · Post by **docile** » Sun Jul 05, 2009 8:49 am

Go back to Engine Basics 101.

Running a different displacement bottom end on a Forced induction setup will only change how the intake port behaves. Its Turbo airflow at set Boost x VE X RPM = Power

You also have to remember the 40Hp gain was with a fresh bottom end, something that can easily explain jump in HP on less boost.

If the Pistons have been getting too hot then the Tuner should be a bit more conservative net time.

OLD FART · Post by **OLD FART** » Sun Jul 05, 2009 10:23 am

docile wrote:Go back to Engine Basics 101.

Running a different displacement bottom end on a Forced induction setup will only change how the intake port behaves. Its Turbo airflow at set Boost x VE X RPM = Power

You also have to remember the 40Hp gain was with a fresh bottom end, something that can easily explain jump in HP on less boost.

If the Pistons have been getting too hot then the Tuner should be a bit more conservative net time.

The most important thing that I was aiming for was TORQUE which means better responce and driveability eg= punch out of corners
It's not the amount of power at the top end but the increased torque that the extra displacement gives and the power under the dyno curve that counts most in making a fast car
Remember torque wins races and horsepower sells cars :beer

In recent ZOOM mag a stock 300kw Commodore was quicker over the 1/4 than a 1000hp dyno queen

that's driveability+ responce
David Baschur is a convert of the stroker :D

Anchor · Post by **Anchor** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 6:53 pm

I see what you're all saying..

But i'm still going stroker. Could do with the extra torque :)

Anchor · Post by **Anchor** » Tue Jul 07, 2009 6:04 pm

Anchor · Post by **Anchor** » Thu Jul 09, 2009 12:55 pm

Just ordered: To suit 1g 4g63 6 bolt crank. Stroker.

Wiseco K571M86 Forged Piston Kit.
Eagle CRS5900MA3D H Beam Rods.

$1200 later... Lol. Better make 400rwhp rofl

And just picked up my new GT30 GCG Turbo Beanie :beer

Bitza · Post by **Bitza** » Thu Jul 09, 2009 6:03 pm

I have just done the same conversion in my cordia........has moved the torque band 1500rpm lower and spools the T3/4 turbo up really quick........being a twin cam I have also included BC 280 degree cams and Fluidampr harmonic to help with the balance shaft removal. I am now fitting a T72 turbo.

Before the T72 turbo installation:

Austarion

GH Pigma. VR4 Head + Forged Stroker..

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