its overheating, now how to help it?
Are you sure the radiator is working properly & have you run a cleaner thru the motor to clean any gunk out of it ?? suggest you take it to a radiator repair shop and have the end tanks removed and the core roded and then use Water Wetter when you refill it
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
Wel that was what I thought, until I got my news letter from the ARDC once. And how there was a debate over banning anti freeze for certain circuit races because when it spills on the track,redzone wrote:only if you're in europe, over here its anti freeze/anti boil, it raises the boiling point...TOMSUN wrote:I have head that if you run 100% water you will have the best cooling capacity. Anti freeze retards the ability to cool.
So run 100% water when doing burn out comps, or what ever your doing then put your coolant back in for street etc.
.
1. It is more slippry than water and
2. It doen't tend to evaporate.
In the artical also when on to say that water is better than coolant in the ability to conduct and dissipate heat and hence the ability to cool.
Coolant is better for
1. Cold climates (anti freeze)
2. Hot climates (Anti boil)
3. Engine service life (Corrosion inhibitor)
S0LJAH, doesn't seehave a problem with it boiling. If he can shed more heat before it gets to the rev/boost cut setting the system won't overload and will be more efficient at getting rid of the heat with water...
Besides it's a cost free exercise (just keep you coolant in a container and fill it up with 100% water, inc. overflow)
1985 JB Starion #157
its a brand new 3 row core it better not need cleaning allreadyOLD FART wrote:Are you sure the radiator is working properly & have you run a cleaner thru the motor to clean any gunk out of it ?? suggest you take it to a radiator repair shop and have the end tanks removed and the core roded and then use Water Wetter when you refill it
the water is quite clear, when i open the top of the tank i can see down to the fins easily
the problem isnt my cooling system as such, the temp gauge never moves when driving or when stopped in traffic the fan can keep things under control easily
just need better cooling when stationary while under heavy load
tomsun thats just a s4/5 rx7 pic i stole
im guna make a shroud and also space the bonnet and see how it goes
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Maybe the thermostat isn't opening fully and is ok while the car is moving quickly but can't flow freely enough when under loadJD_Stazza_Brendan wrote:you know the condition of the water pump? and last time thermostat was changed?
SUGGEST
1 try without thermostat & see if problem still exists if it does then it's not the t/stat
2 test existing t/stat in water on stove & see if it opens fully
3 always test new t/stat as above because I have found some
NEW ones to be faulty
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
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- racking my brains
- Posts: 5900
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:46 pm
- Location: sunshine coast qld
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S0LJAH wrote: the problem isnt my cooling system as such, the temp gauge never moves when driving or when stopped in traffic the fan can keep things under control easily
just need better cooling when stationary while under heavy load
YAHTZEE! your problem is airflow related. you need more, or more efficient fans.
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
hoonS0LJAH wrote: just need better cooling when stationary while under heavy load
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
yup im aware of that :Dredzone wrote:S0LJAH wrote: the problem isnt my cooling system as such, the temp gauge never moves when driving or when stopped in traffic the fan can keep things under control easily
just need better cooling when stationary while under heavy load
YAHTZEE! your problem is airflow related. you need more, or more efficient fans.
am after ideas as i can fit another fan on there a single 14 is all it will take
i made up a 20mm deep shroud at work today fitted it up when i got home and it touches my damn front pulley!!
i dunno if a 10mm deep shroud is guna work is it?thats not a alot of are behind it to allow airflow
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- racking my brains
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cant notch the shroud you made??
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
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