its overheating, now how to help it?
its overheating, now how to help it?
check my posts down the bottom
Last edited by S0LJAH on Wed Feb 11, 2009 6:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Fuel filter? Was an issue on one of my old cars and had similar issue....
I'm not to sure if the factory fuel lines which would be setup for 1300cc carby would be suitable for a 2000cc turbo? would need double the fuel flowing through it almost... but I guess if it dyno'd ok then should be fine.
I'm not to sure if the factory fuel lines which would be setup for 1300cc carby would be suitable for a 2000cc turbo? would need double the fuel flowing through it almost... but I guess if it dyno'd ok then should be fine.
Sold - 1987 Mitsubishi Starion GSR V DASH
Current - 1995 Subaru Legacy TT SW
- 1983 Mitsubishi Starion
Current - 1995 Subaru Legacy TT SW
- 1983 Mitsubishi Starion
nah factory wasted coil
from what i think i dont think it is due to the fact it sat on the dyno for a good few hours solid with no issues
where i imagine the coils would have got there hottest
and when i do have the problem it fixes itself relatively quickly if you just let it idle
i think temps would take a bit longer to cool down especially if your still running the engine??
from what i think i dont think it is due to the fact it sat on the dyno for a good few hours solid with no issues
where i imagine the coils would have got there hottest
and when i do have the problem it fixes itself relatively quickly if you just let it idle
i think temps would take a bit longer to cool down especially if your still running the engine??
ok cool so they cool down quite quickly
i take it its the continuous sparking at hi rpms that cuases it to heat up rather than the engine bay temps?
and at idling it fires slowly enough to cool down?
anyway i can test it?
what part is most likely?one of the coils?ignitor?
its got brand new plugs, 10.5mm leads
stock coils and ignitor i got with the intake manifold
i take it its the continuous sparking at hi rpms that cuases it to heat up rather than the engine bay temps?
and at idling it fires slowly enough to cool down?
anyway i can test it?
what part is most likely?one of the coils?ignitor?
its got brand new plugs, 10.5mm leads
stock coils and ignitor i got with the intake manifold
hahahahaha i fell like a newb now LOL
turns out its hitting a temp realted rev/boost cut
basically turns the car into limp mode and wont let it rev past 3500rpm or 1lb of boost
anyone got any good ideas on how to keep it cooler during burnouts etc?
my limit is 110deg but it seemed to be cutting out around 95-100deg on my seperate temp gauge
guna go into the tuners and get them to check the limits and see what the temps are actually doing
ive got a single 14inch fan mounted flush to the 3 row radiator
it works awesome at all other times just burnouts its no good
im running the line out of the the rear of the waterpump round to one of the outlets on the bottom of the thermo housing, would this be sucking heaps of hot water back into the waterpump?
turns out its hitting a temp realted rev/boost cut
basically turns the car into limp mode and wont let it rev past 3500rpm or 1lb of boost
anyone got any good ideas on how to keep it cooler during burnouts etc?
my limit is 110deg but it seemed to be cutting out around 95-100deg on my seperate temp gauge
guna go into the tuners and get them to check the limits and see what the temps are actually doing
ive got a single 14inch fan mounted flush to the 3 row radiator
it works awesome at all other times just burnouts its no good
im running the line out of the the rear of the waterpump round to one of the outlets on the bottom of the thermo housing, would this be sucking heaps of hot water back into the waterpump?
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- almost postwhore
- Posts: 1131
- Joined: Tue Jan 25, 2005 10:46 pm
- Location: Mackay, QLD, Australia
I have head that if you run 100% water you will have the best cooling capacity. Anti freeze retards the ability to cool.
So run 100% water when doing burn out comps, or what ever your doing then put your coolant back in for street etc.
Pop the back of your bonet about an inch with spacers (or better still take the bonet off)
Get water jet spray onto your radiatior when doing burnout. The evaporation will help cooling.
What car and motor is that???
And pics of burnouts!
.
So run 100% water when doing burn out comps, or what ever your doing then put your coolant back in for street etc.
Pop the back of your bonet about an inch with spacers (or better still take the bonet off)
Get water jet spray onto your radiatior when doing burnout. The evaporation will help cooling.
What car and motor is that???
And pics of burnouts!
.
1985 JB Starion #157
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- racking my brains
- Posts: 5900
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:46 pm
- Location: sunshine coast qld
- Contact:
only if you're in europe, over here its anti freeze/anti boil, it raises the boiling point...TOMSUN wrote:I have head that if you run 100% water you will have the best cooling capacity. Anti freeze retards the ability to cool.
So run 100% water when doing burn out comps, or what ever your doing then put your coolant back in for street etc.
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Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
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