New Pistons

83Starion · Post by **83Starion** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 2:56 pm

so where's the best place to get some scat rods mate, this build is pretty much coming from your guys minds, I am just tge man with the little budget lol

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 7:00 pm

if you are on a budget just run stock rods. they are strong as f*&k. they are the same as VR4 rods. if you are revving over 7000, or over 6500 constantly, THATS when u need the big rods..

83Starion · Post by **83Starion** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 8:08 pm

Oh nar, don't reckon i'll ever see that many rev's in it, I heard stocks wern't too bad, just that pistons were like glass.

Cheers

4gpwr · Post by **4gpwr** » Tue Oct 28, 2008 11:17 am

Fair enougth if the stock rods are tuff , but the rods are twenty + years old , the conrod is the hardest working part in the motor .

83Starion · Post by **83Starion** » Tue Oct 28, 2008 2:18 pm

Yeha very true, what about if I got the shot peened? is this still a thing they do to toughen the, up?

Website · Post by **WidebodyWoody** » Tue Oct 28, 2008 3:34 pm

Simple. If you take shortcuts now, it will cost you more in the long run. End discussion :D

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Tue Oct 28, 2008 5:02 pm

orange car has STOCK rods. because it wont see over 7K. inertial (stretching) load increases exponentially over 7000 rpm, under that these sort of loads are not a drama. if you are on a budget, stick with the stockers. its not like its a 4G93 with those spaghetti rods, or an exploding nissan engine..

3 main things cause rod failure:

1) poor assembly/bearing quality

2) lubrication system failure (ie lack of servicing)

3) over revving

but hey, if u want to spend money u dont need to, go right ahead! :)

4gpwr · Post by **4gpwr** » Tue Oct 28, 2008 6:34 pm

Being a starion , Mr Redzone , you are right I had a pretty good run on the street with std rods , and reused them with about three sets of broken pistons one year .
But being a starion , mistakes will be made , dare to say even the experts , lose control of the engine sometimes , eg boost spikes , a good ping ect , which hammers the bearings , creating a knock .
Now it comes down to money , and the intention of the car . But the costs of properly preparing std rods to todays prices of aftermarket conrods is a no brainer.

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 7:22 am

yes of course if u are going to beam polish/shotpeen the originals etc, then u are better off buying new.

OLD FART · Post by **OLD FART** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 5:06 pm

redzone wrote:yes of course if u are going to beam polish/shotpeen the originals etc, then u are better off buying new.

When I had my old motor rebuilt tover 10 years ago Forgies were expensive so my rods were beam polished to remove casting dags and shotpeened to stress relieve them and they served me well up to app 280 hpatw and 7200rpm
Now a set of Eagles cost app $400 . oo and while they are a budget buy Cheater has had no probs in his race cars

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 5:34 pm

if you can still get eagles for $400 grab em now, as our exchange rate has killed all the cheap parts.. the rods in the orange car are not even specially prepped (just balanced) and i have no doubt they will be fine for well over 300hp atw.. there are VR4 owners with 350hp atw with unopened internals!

4G63's are like the 2JZ of the 4 cyl world..

iXNAY · Post by **iXNAY** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 5:48 pm

redzone wrote:4G63's are like the 2JZ of the 4 cyl world..

the 4G's love the boost!!!

Austarion

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