Strong Gearbox

WANTSOM · Post by **WANTSOM** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 8:20 am

Lummy wrote -

I thought I was going to have to modify the tunnel to allow for the larger W58 box, but to my amazement, it slipped straight in and had clearance everywhere. I had to make up a custom rear gearbox mount, but that wasn't a lot of work.

Told you so didnt I :beer

quest · Post by **quest** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 9:00 am

some folks are not so nice to their W5X gearbox

daily driven 5spd street corolla with its original toyota 1.8L 2 valve motor

Lummy · Post by **Lummy** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 12:57 pm

I have a hydraulic clutch set up.

The allen bolts...no idea why. They're high-tensile and I had them sitting around. The have spring washers and have lock-tighted in, so it's all good.

TD05 · Post by **TD05** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 8:12 pm

I never had any issues with my JB, but then again I wasn't dropping the clutch at 5000 either, I only ever replaced the clutch once, the gearboxes are very strong so are the diffs, even with the power you're talking about.

Lummy · Post by **Lummy** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 8:57 pm

It's not the power that's the problem. 300rw HP isn't huge. It's the torque. I run a 36mm restrictor on the turbo (for Improved Production racing), which really limits top-end power. So, all my power has to be made from 3000 to 6000 rpm, meaning massive amounts of torque.

Torque is what kills gearboxes.

iXNAY · Post by **iXNAY** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 11:20 pm

Lummy wrote:It's not the power that's the problem. 300rw HP isn't huge. It's the torque. I run a 36mm restrictor on the turbo (for Improved Production racing), which really limits top-end power. So, all my power has to be made from 3000 to 6000 rpm, meaning massive amounts of torque.

Torque is what kills gearboxes.

correct thats why i keep breaking them!

Lummy · Post by **Lummy** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 10:42 am

By the way, now that the conversion from Starion 5 speed to Supra 5 speed is complete, I can highly recommend it to anyone who's considering it.

The ratios, the feel and the confidence it inspires make it a worth-while exercise. The W5* gearboxes have a reputation for being pretty strong, so I doubt I'll be breaking this one.

After snapping 2 Starion boxes I found myself only applying 3/4 throttle out of corners and down the straight in an attempt to look after the gearbox. 3-4 laps with the Supra box and it was full throttle anywhere I could.

It's not a cheap exercise though. It was about $2k all up.

thrash · Post by **thrash** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 1:28 pm

for those on a budget who want to stop breaking gearboxes, an easy thing to do is switch to a clutch with a bit more slippage..

the first mod a lot of people think about is a HD clutch.. but guess what?? if you're a lead foot or just not all that friendly to your cars, a less grippy clutch can save your drivetrain and also your tyres..

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:59 pm

however, a stock starion clutch is ABSOLUTELY SHITHOUSE :)

SIR · Post by **SIR** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 7:32 am

Hi Guys

I just ordered one of these dellow bellhousings that converts a VR4 narrow block to W series Toyota box that I am fitting into my improved production 1976 Lancer race car. I was lucky as they don't usually stock them but someone has just had one made so they made a spare, more then likely one of you guys.

Jeff at dellow told me that I had to use a starion slave cylinder (I am also converting from cable to hydraulic) but wasn't able to tell me what else I required can you guys help with the things below? He has also supplied me with a clutch fork, thrust bearing and adjustable slave cylinder rod.

- Flywheel which one? Did you get it machined to accept the Toyota spigot bearing, I cannot recall the vr4 crank having a machined area to accept a spigot bearing?
- Pressure plate and clutch disc? I assume you have gone with the pressure plate to match the flywheel, and custom clutch disc to suit with Toyota spline??
- Starter motor? same as flywheel?
- Shim plate between the gearbox and engine? Are you still running one to cover up the clutch if so which one?

Jeff from Dellow is trying to chase down the details for me but when I came across this post I thought I might ask.

Cheers
Casey

S0LJAH · Post by **S0LJAH** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 7:44 am

if you dont mind me asking how much do dellow charge for the bellhousing kit and what does it come with?
just the bellhousing?

can also get a similar kit off a guy on projectzerog so just trying to work out which would be more cost effective

turbosigma · Post by **turbosigma** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:00 am

SIR wrote:Hi Guys

I just ordered one of these dellow bellhousings that converts a VR4 narrow block to W series Toyota box that I am fitting into my improved production 1976 Lancer race car. I was lucky as they don't usually stock them but someone has just had one made so they made a spare, more then likely one of you guys.

Jeff at dellow told me that I had to use a starion slave cylinder (I am also converting from cable to hydraulic) but wasn't able to tell me what else I required can you guys help with the things below? He has also supplied me with a clutch fork, thrust bearing and adjustable slave cylinder rod.

- Flywheel which one? Did you get it machined to accept the Toyota spigot bearing, I cannot recall the vr4 crank having a machined area to accept a spigot bearing?
- Pressure plate and clutch disc? I assume you have gone with the pressure plate to match the flywheel, and custom clutch disc to suit with Toyota spline??
- Starter motor? same as flywheel?
- Shim plate between the gearbox and engine? Are you still running one to cover up the clutch if so which one?

Jeff from Dellow is trying to chase down the details for me but when I came across this post I thought I might ask.

Cheers
Casey

can give you a rough idea - as I'm in the middle too.

Flywheel which one - i used the vr4, machined to accept the spigot bearing. http://www.walkercorp.ath.cx/car/fly2.jpg

Pressure plate and clutch disc - yes - just the spline.

Starter motor - in my case - a sigma one - but removed the ring gear from the sigma flywheel - pressed on to vr4 flywheel - its just that bit bigger.

Shim plate - narrow block sigma one - should give you the idea - http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.p ... c&start=15 - although that's a wide at the rear I guess in this case.

S0LJAH - get Bills one - its built better.

SIR · Post by **SIR** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:33 am

I got charged $425 +gst then extra for fork, thrust bearing and slave cylinder rod. It all came to just over $700 inc Gst and delivered to my door.

I wanted to go the american one, as there is a lot of info around on it including a youtube video showing fitment and what is required. I wasn't sure about having to get the crank machines to take the spigot bearing for this one. I stopped researching it when our dollar dropped and wanted something sooner.

turbosigma - any reason why you went for the VR4 flywheel? If you went a vr4 starter would you have need to have messed around with the ring gear?

I will post pics and a bit of a write up if you guys are keen. It might take awhile as I am still trying to source a VR4 engine, SA is low on stocks of thes at the moment.

turbosigma · Post by **turbosigma** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 9:25 am

VR4 flywheel - more off the shelf aftermarket support - clutch options.

Don't know if the vr4 starter would work - if you look at the shim plate link - the position of the starter - With the Dellow bell would be like the rear one.

Try it let us know :D

Bell cost me $350 ebay ( non hydraulic - no mounts for the slave / no cut out for the clutch fork :roll: ) - w58 $150 - just need the clutch disc now.

TomVR4 · Post by **TomVR4** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 10:15 am

SIR wrote: I was lucky as they don't usually stock them but someone has just had one made so they made a spare, more then likely one of you guys.

yeah that was me.

Austarion

Strong Gearbox

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