Tonight I started to remove my engine
Tonight I started to remove my engine
As I'll be getting a new engine this weekend (if all goes to plan), I started removing the ancilliaries tonight, to make it easier to get out.
I've got the inlet manifold and compressor for the air con off, the right hand side is bare now, and is 1/3 of it's original size less! Should I need to take the exhaust manifold off, or will it be okay with it on. Looks like an easy in-out job tbh. Should I support the gearbox, or is it mounted securely?
:beer
I've got the inlet manifold and compressor for the air con off, the right hand side is bare now, and is 1/3 of it's original size less! Should I need to take the exhaust manifold off, or will it be okay with it on. Looks like an easy in-out job tbh. Should I support the gearbox, or is it mounted securely?
:beer
1987 Mitsubishi Starion 2.0 Turbo RHD with 88 - 90 engine (?), manual gearbox (MAP Sensor'd).
LSD, Intercooler, ABS, leather interior, air con
LSD, Intercooler, ABS, leather interior, air con
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- almost postwhore
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If your taking just the motor out you should put something at the front of the gearbox to hold it up like some chocks of wood as only the rear gearbox crossmember and tail shaft will be holding it in place.
-JA Starion with JD bits , Forged engine, Heaps of mods (parked up)
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-77 Mazda 323 drag car. 13bt rotary project.
Yes i have too many toys.
SOHC POWER
-BFII XR6 Turbo Ute , Here comes 400hp for 2k :p
-77 Mazda 323 drag car. 13bt rotary project.
Yes i have too many toys.
SOHC POWER
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- Woodwide
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Just to add to this question, if you take the engine and chock up the gearbox, how do you transport the car? Can you secure the box in place in anyway?
Also Station, you will need to atleast remove the Dump pipe when removing it. I don't think you need to take out the ex mani, but it would probably make your life easier.
Also Station, you will need to atleast remove the Dump pipe when removing it. I don't think you need to take out the ex mani, but it would probably make your life easier.
I put a timber rake handle across the two front guards and looped a rope under the front of the gearbox to support it. It flexed a fair bit but it did the job.WidebodyWoody wrote:Just to add to this question, if you take the engine and chock up the gearbox, how do you transport the car? Can you secure the box in place in anyway?
1985 JB Starion #157
And what about the dents you leave in the top of the guard? :?TOMSUN wrote:I put a timber rake handle across the two front guards and looped a rope under the front of the gearbox to support it. It flexed a fair bit but it did the job.WidebodyWoody wrote:Just to add to this question, if you take the engine and chock up the gearbox, how do you transport the car? Can you secure the box in place in anyway?
Perhaps some metal strapping and attach to the firewall using existing bolt holes?
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- Enthusiast
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Show Link : http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/Apr06/4wsrebuild_019.jpg
I just use welding wire (or no 8 fencing wire) to hold the box.
I just use welding wire (or no 8 fencing wire) to hold the box.
1985 Widebody Factory Four Wheel Steering
1986 Euro Spec-ABS,LSD etc
1986 Euro Spec-ABS,LSD etc
After looking at that pic i was thinking why is the steeringbox box different and what is that big canister..
Then I realized it was a pic of a 4WS starion..
Anyway i also notice the brake master cylinder is connected horizontally to the booster as compared to vertically on my LHD starion..
Makes you wonder why Mitsubishi went trough the trouble to change that because apart from the reservoir it looks identical.
And on my LHD chassis there are also bolt holes on the right side that would allow for the remote reservoir to be bolted to.
I would not be surprised if you could actually interchange the 2 if you replace it as a whole.(brake booster,master & reservoirs)
Then I realized it was a pic of a 4WS starion..
Anyway i also notice the brake master cylinder is connected horizontally to the booster as compared to vertically on my LHD starion..
Makes you wonder why Mitsubishi went trough the trouble to change that because apart from the reservoir it looks identical.
And on my LHD chassis there are also bolt holes on the right side that would allow for the remote reservoir to be bolted to.
I would not be surprised if you could actually interchange the 2 if you replace it as a whole.(brake booster,master & reservoirs)
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83 2000EX runner.
88 2.0 Black Widebody DOHC evo 6 turbo at 1.7 bar
88 2.6 White Widebody. spun a bearing.
06 2.0 Lancer Wagon. daily driver.
83 2000EX runner.
88 2.0 Black Widebody DOHC evo 6 turbo at 1.7 bar
88 2.6 White Widebody. spun a bearing.
06 2.0 Lancer Wagon. daily driver.
My rake at work in this pic... (with blankets protecting the guards)Alspos wrote: And what about the dents you leave in the top of the guard? :?
Perhaps some metal strapping and attach to the firewall using existing bolt holes?
http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.p ... light=rake
1985 JB Starion #157
the gearbox isn't bolted to the engine??
sorry for the noob questions.. but is that the way it is with most cars?? i was always under the impression that boxes are securely bolted to engine..
sorry for the noob questions.. but is that the way it is with most cars?? i was always under the impression that boxes are securely bolted to engine..
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
Yep, but what happens when you take the motor out? Well... The gearbox will hang down and nearly touch the ground. Once the motor is out, the gearbox is really only held by the rear gearbox mount and tailshaft.thrash wrote:the gearbox isn't bolted to the engine??
sorry for the noob questions.. but is that the way it is with most cars?? i was always under the impression that boxes are securely bolted to engine..
1985 JB Starion #157
So far I haven't had to get under the car, which is nice, but I suppose it's a matter of a few bolts. Thanklfully, it had a dodgy replacement last year, so all the bolts are fresh. :)
I will give the bay a respray and clean up everything in there, all mounts with hammerite, etc.
Here's how it was last night:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/stationji ... 9880443442
I will get one side totally bare, just to make it easier, though I suppose it would have been better to make the exhaust side bare. Never mind.
I will give the bay a respray and clean up everything in there, all mounts with hammerite, etc.
Here's how it was last night:
http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/stationji ... 9880443442
I will get one side totally bare, just to make it easier, though I suppose it would have been better to make the exhaust side bare. Never mind.
1987 Mitsubishi Starion 2.0 Turbo RHD with 88 - 90 engine (?), manual gearbox (MAP Sensor'd).
LSD, Intercooler, ABS, leather interior, air con
LSD, Intercooler, ABS, leather interior, air con
ahh haha what a retard i am..TOMSUN wrote:Yep, but what happens when you take the motor out? Well... The gearbox will hang down and nearly touch the ground. Once the motor is out, the gearbox is really only held by the rear gearbox mount and tailshaft.thrash wrote:the gearbox isn't bolted to the engine??
sorry for the noob questions.. but is that the way it is with most cars?? i was always under the impression that boxes are securely bolted to engine..
so its harder to take the motor and gearbox out together?
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
Yeah, gearbox is under the car pointing towards the back. If you took both out, you'd have to angle it so both could come out at the same time = a pain in the arse!
With FWD engines, the engine is facing the other way round and the gearbox is facing sideways ...
sometimes it's more hassle to leave the box on and actually lift the car up with the engine crane and support/remove the engine and box from the bottom.
The hardest thing about engine removal is undoing rusted bolts. Otherwise, it's a really easy, over-estimated job (due to weight of engine).
With FWD engines, the engine is facing the other way round and the gearbox is facing sideways ...
sometimes it's more hassle to leave the box on and actually lift the car up with the engine crane and support/remove the engine and box from the bottom.
The hardest thing about engine removal is undoing rusted bolts. Otherwise, it's a really easy, over-estimated job (due to weight of engine).
1987 Mitsubishi Starion 2.0 Turbo RHD with 88 - 90 engine (?), manual gearbox (MAP Sensor'd).
LSD, Intercooler, ABS, leather interior, air con
LSD, Intercooler, ABS, leather interior, air con
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