New Project!
New Project!
im going to go down the all so deadly path of a DOHC engine
but the problem arose of what combination of DOHC should I go with?
2L - 4G63
2.1L - 4G63 - have heard they rev like crazy
2.3/2.4L stroker - 4G63 w/ 4G64 crank
if anyone has any other combos please let me know...
after this there will be more polls to see what people think of stuff such as rod and piston/cams/turbos/etc...
PS. the sadest thing about this is i have only just got my SOHC engine running and its getting thrown on the dyno on wedensday and im already looking for more power....
but the problem arose of what combination of DOHC should I go with?
2L - 4G63
2.1L - 4G63 - have heard they rev like crazy
2.3/2.4L stroker - 4G63 w/ 4G64 crank
if anyone has any other combos please let me know...
after this there will be more polls to see what people think of stuff such as rod and piston/cams/turbos/etc...
PS. the sadest thing about this is i have only just got my SOHC engine running and its getting thrown on the dyno on wedensday and im already looking for more power....
SR20 powered starion what have I done..... :P
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- racking my brains
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i voted 2LT 4G63, for ease, reliability and being able to spend the money saved on parts on other things more conducive to making good power, like garrett GT3076R's :D
and u dont need much to get these things really honking...
and u dont need much to get these things really honking...
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
yes yes i am seriously thinking about building a 2.4Lwww.18u wrote:Your such a girl LOL You know your going to build a 2.4 so you can keep up with me Can't wait to see it on the dyno I got those drift tyres ready if it holds together that long rofl
but this is why i made this thread to get the inputs and thoughts off people with more experience and knowledge than myself and off people that may have gone down this road before me
stuff like this is great its got reasons behind it..
thanks daveredzone wrote:i voted 2LT 4G63, for ease, reliability and being able to spend the money saved on parts on other things more conducive to making good power, like garrett GT3076R's :D
PS. can people please use the poll to vote so i have an accurate tally :)
SR20 powered starion what have I done..... :P
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- BATHURST LEGEND 07
- Posts: 948
- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 4:46 pm
- Location: Brisbane
I guess it depends on the application and the risk you are willing to take. I am going 2.0 as it is a proven package world wide, is the same cubic capacity so rego no probs, there are no end of parts available and the main reason for me is that I am not chasing highest hp rating or quickest 1/4 mile time rather a real strong and reliable (proven high hp) motor which revs well and isn't a handgrenade. Dave is putting it together with great care and effort and we hope to have it on line soon.
Realistically I would consider 2.4 if I knew others who had already run it the way I want to and have built it without great cost. The extra capacity will definately produce more hp but for what extra costs and reliability? Stroking a motor is fairly simple but then modifying and running it within its limits is both expensive and unknown to most of us.
I have asked Dave to build a motor which is reliable and strong with about 350hp at the treads without huge boost levels. Hence the forged internals, balance, twin cam head, port work, over sized valves, GT3076R turbo, NPC clutch set up and special gearbox. I believe the parts we have put together should provide what I want and should also provide it for a long time without failures.
Realistically I would consider 2.4 if I knew others who had already run it the way I want to and have built it without great cost. The extra capacity will definately produce more hp but for what extra costs and reliability? Stroking a motor is fairly simple but then modifying and running it within its limits is both expensive and unknown to most of us.
I have asked Dave to build a motor which is reliable and strong with about 350hp at the treads without huge boost levels. Hence the forged internals, balance, twin cam head, port work, over sized valves, GT3076R turbo, NPC clutch set up and special gearbox. I believe the parts we have put together should provide what I want and should also provide it for a long time without failures.
2.4s arent worth the hassle.
You actually need to port the 2L Cylinder Head ports to match it to bore capacity otherwise you kill the ports and mess up the fuel atomisation.
Then you need a perfect 2.4L crank otherwise you have to get an Eagle billet. Also keep the balance shafts, harmonic dampner and keep a rev limit of 7000rpm. All just to spool up the same turbo some 300rpm sooner. :roll:
Stick to redzones advice and you'll be miles ahead of most.
You actually need to port the 2L Cylinder Head ports to match it to bore capacity otherwise you kill the ports and mess up the fuel atomisation.
Then you need a perfect 2.4L crank otherwise you have to get an Eagle billet. Also keep the balance shafts, harmonic dampner and keep a rev limit of 7000rpm. All just to spool up the same turbo some 300rpm sooner. :roll:
Stick to redzones advice and you'll be miles ahead of most.
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- BATHURST LEGEND 07
- Posts: 948
- Joined: Sun Feb 18, 2007 4:46 pm
- Location: Brisbane
cubic inchs
First thing I'II ask is buget. Bigger engs can make more pwr. With less stress, Rpm , Boost ect . For a grand or two more than the price of good rods and Forged pistions. Strokers are the way to go.
4Gs Rule
2.4 , toooooooooourque and turbo , the perfect match.
http://www.advancedjapautoimports.com.a ... topic=94.0
can be done easy , but it will need to be machined and ground perfect.
find an good machine shop , dont be a tight arse and go the cheap .
http://www.advancedjapautoimports.com.a ... topic=94.0
can be done easy , but it will need to be machined and ground perfect.
find an good machine shop , dont be a tight arse and go the cheap .
old skool jap ...........
there is no substitute...........
there is no substitute...........
I'd suggest that you evaluate what you want from the engine and determine a combination from there, e.g.
- Is it a street, circuit, dyno or drag car?
- What sort of budget do you have?
I'd suggest for a street or circuit car you don't need any more than 300whp and lots of torque, whereas for dyno or drag car you will want as much power as possible and will be prepared to accept a tradeoff between torque and top end power.
Unless you have upwards of $20k to put into your setup (engine, fuel system, cooling, engine management, tuning etc) i'd say you are better off with a SOHC setup.
I think the 2.3L SOHC stroker is the best option if you are running MPI and an aftermarket ECU, you will get immediate torque gains even with your existing turbo setup.
- Is it a street, circuit, dyno or drag car?
- What sort of budget do you have?
I'd suggest for a street or circuit car you don't need any more than 300whp and lots of torque, whereas for dyno or drag car you will want as much power as possible and will be prepared to accept a tradeoff between torque and top end power.
Unless you have upwards of $20k to put into your setup (engine, fuel system, cooling, engine management, tuning etc) i'd say you are better off with a SOHC setup.
I think the 2.3L SOHC stroker is the best option if you are running MPI and an aftermarket ECU, you will get immediate torque gains even with your existing turbo setup.
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