Austarion

Hi Guy's

Click on the thumbnail for larger image

Remember i have to use a 36mm intake restrictor on the turbo. This restrictor is so small i can only just get 2 fingers into it!

The HP is ok but it has heaps of torque

301.7 hp and all Ash says "HP is ok" :roll:

Goodonya, Ash - and the engine bay's looking pretty damn good as well! :beer

God damn man, thats one fucking tidy-ass engine bay...

Good on ya man, that thing must be wicked to drive, the curve is nicely shaped, would be nice and progressive, just what you'd want for the track? Is that with the 36mm (i think) restrictor?

Inspiration++

Barney,

Good strong curves there. Well done.

As an aside how did you set up the restrictor in respect of placement? (I have heard the placement of it can affect performance). From the photo it appears you are running big diameter intake but couldnt make out whether the restrictor is at the turbo or cold air box.

It looks like I am going to have to run a restrictor in the CAMS S/sprint rounds next year so keen to get it set up right.

Come on. You call that power????

Because I do. :p

Well done Mate. Love your work

Very Very tidy man, just 1 Q? what did U do for a CAS? Mine hits the firewall.
:beer

Thanks for the positive comments guy's :D

I am very happy with the Hp. I cant describe just how small the restrictor is, if you saw it you would understand. I sits about 50mm away from the turbo blades on the compressor side (will take so pics for ya)

The restrictor's effects can be seen in the boost graph. Boost can not be held accross the page. If you try and hold the boost power drops as the turbo becomes more inefficient. CAMS state it has to be within a certain distance from the induction blades and can only be a particular shape, this is so it cant expand as it heats up. Once the restrictor is in place, the turbo is presented to CAMS so they can seal it with a wire tie and a stamp.

With out the restrictor i would run a Garrett GT30 and make about 450 RWHP :D

As it is now the Torque is very high. The tyres leave black lines down the street in 3rd gear from roll on. Its not spinning up like a burn out but its just fighting for grip. If you hit a bump whilst loaded up in third it will break into wheelspin. This is with race tyres (Yokohama AO32R)

The CAS is the standard VR4 one. The engine is tilted very slightly from the gearbox. The firewall has been messaged abit with rubber mallet

Next for the engine is a set of Tomei PonCams and Race fuel. With these it should make about 320 -330 rwhp with a phatt Torque and power curve. That will be the absolute limit as the laws of physics say it can not make any more power with a 36mm restrictor :(

Ash

Nice work barney :)

Barney wrote:the laws of physics say it can not make any more power with a 36mm restrictor :(

Looking very good there ash, and remember, the law was made to be broken ;)

awesome power out put!!! :D and with such a small restictor! you have gotta be stoked with that!
(heres a peice of useless information for you my mate runs a built sr20 with a custom built 30/40 turbo and it only makes 340rwhp on 18pd)

The engine bay is very nice indeed i wish mine was that clean.

Just one thing what is the peace of sheet metal that goes over the radiator support for?

Also why did you chose tommei poncams? what the advantages? thanks

TWIMCAM BOY wrote:awesome power out put!!! :D and with such a small restictor! you have gotta be stoked with that!
(heres a peice of useless information for you my mate runs a built sr20 with a custom built 30/40 turbo and it only makes 340rwhp on 18pd)

The engine bay is very nice indeed i wish mine was that clean.

Just one thing what is the peace of sheet metal that goes over the radiator support for?

Also why did you chose tommei poncams? what the advantages? thanks

Im happy with the power. But the Torque is mint. It sounds like one of those race super trucks. Would love to run a GT30 and crank it up to over 400rwhp :D

The sheet Alloy is for radiator ducting. I had over heating problems whilst racing, especialy amongst traffic. I used a New BMW Radiator (alloy core) and it still got hot. The ducting completly surounds the radiator so the air has to go thru it. There is a air scoop under the car as well. The reason cooling is a problem is because the rad sits about 100mm away from the engine, the intercooler i where the radiator was originally and a big oil cooler sits in front of that, so the air was not getting thru and the small amount that was is already hot!

I have standard cams at the moment but I will be getting a set of Tomei Pon Cams. The reason for Tomei is I know they work. Top Racing do all my work. Their Shop EVO III race car gained approx 40 hp at the wheels with a set of 260 Pon Cams and thats with the restrictor. So more importantly i know they work with a 36mm restrictor

Ash

Radiator, Intercooler and Oil Cooler set up


Out side pic turning into turn 1 at Barbagello
(you can see the radiator air ducting under the car)

oh neat idea mate :D i can't believe how neat and clean you conversion is!!! :) well done on the amazing work.

now with the cams are they 260 pon intake and exhuast just very interested as im tryin to deicide on cams for mine im running a gt35r so im not sure if i should run bigger? what do you reckon?

also do you get any problems with your brake and clutch master cylinders with the heat from turbo?

what do you ran your cam gears at ?
thaanks

TWIMCAM BOY wrote:oh neat idea mate :D i can't believe how neat and clean you conversion is!!! :) well done on the amazing work.

now with the cams are they 260 pon intake and exhuast just very interested as im tryin to deicide on cams for mine im running a gt35r so im not sure if i should run bigger? what do you reckon?

also do you get any problems with your brake and clutch master cylinders with the heat from turbo?

what do you ran your cam gears at ?
thaanks

Ta Mate

GT35R :o Thats Big. You going stroker? if not maybe lagy!

You may require bigger cams, but any bigger Poncams and the head will need to come off and be set up for the cams (or so im told). The springs will need replacing with the correct type as the lift will also be more and the springs will bind. The most important thig to do is get the cams dialled in by someone who KNOWS what they are doing.

Im not sure of the gear settings, and it will be usless to you anyway. The reason for the adjustable gears is because i have a metal head gasket. The metal head gasket makes the head sit a bit higher, this causes the cam belt to pull the cam gears around off center. The engine builder then re-dials the standard cams back to where they should be. The gasket thickness, how much the block has been decked and how much the head has been shaved can also create a problem, so adjustable cam gears are used.

Heat issues yes!. the only benifit is i have removed the brake booster. This now gives me more clearence from the exhaust. The real issue is the Clutch cylinder, I have heat wraped is and it is still melting :) The accelerator cable also melted and stuck wide open in 4 th gear at turn 5 at barbagello over the top of the hill. I shit myself and ended up spinnning at about 160kph on the blind crest. :D

Ash

G/dayAsh gotta luv your spotless engine bay
do u think that a beanie 4 the turbo & an exhaust wrapped dump pipe would help 2 prevent soiled undies in future ???
Cheers
Rad