European School of loud exhaust

[truespinmice]

::::: pevious part is in technical section :::::


okej :D

my new exhaust:




2.5" straight pipe without muffler (I only leave old downpipe)




And this is my dynorun (with old exhaust):



ONLY 108HP@5000rpm & 170Nm@4200rpm - WTF !!!!????
(probably boost stock on 0.4 bar )


in next week I do next dynorun (with new exhaust). I think that next time will be better. Now I feel that car is more flexible above 2000rpm


listen this(first start):
dB maker :)


oh, I almost forgot. That's how I'm looking driving my car:

noise is so loud that I can't stand it ! for real...

[tmz_99]

crazy.. no noise restrictions then??

[WHOD1N1]

I had a resinator on mine and couldnt stand that so i got another resinator put in and a rear muffler.

[truespinmice]

crazy.. no noise restrictions then??

generally since yesterday I don't drive my Starion :D because I'm afraid of the police :D

I must put muffler :D

it's hard to stand that , but now I have more smoothness and flexibility.


NEXT STEP IS TO FIND OUT WHY DO I HAVE ONLY 108HP AND ONLY 0.4 BAR???!!!
ANYBODY KNOWS.............??

[Junkers]

When was your engine last rebuilt? Maybe due for some new rings and a healthier turbo.
Your boost is supposed to be 0.5 bar stock but as the actuator gets old it gets lazy and can be corrected with a boost controller depending on it's state.

[truespinmice]

When was your engine last rebuilt?

hmm....about 2 years ago (everything what necessary was rebuild).
so engine is probably in good condition (btw. engine was rebuild by the old mitsubishi mechanic - he is one of the best in my region).

Your boost is supposed to be 0.5 bar stock but as the actuator gets old it gets lazy and can be corrected with a boost controller depending on it's state.

so my actuator maybe is broken? and I must replace actuator?
or can I put Manual Boost Controll and turn it up for example 0.7 bar?

ps. I remind you that I haven't got IC

[Junkers]

If you dont have a intercooler don't go over 10psi (0.7bar).
Try disconnecting the rubber hose that goes to the actuator then take your car for a drive and see if it goes over 0.4 bar (only do this once or twice, the car may jerk if you hold your footdown too long aswell). If it does go over 0.4 bar you can use a manual BC to change the boost but if it doesn't you MAY need a new actuator.

[truespinmice]

Try disconnecting the rubber hose that goes to the actuator then take your car for a drive and see if it goes over 0.4 bar (only do this once or twice, the car may jerk if you hold your footdown too long aswell). If it does go over 0.4 bar you can use a manual BC to change the boost but if it doesn't you MAY need a new actuator.

ok, I will try it maybe today!

If you dont have a intercooler don't go over 10psi (0.7bar).

ok


by the way when we talk about IC , I found this text (when we want to put IC to non IC engine - 4G63):

"...an IC kit (...) needs a new computer chip, otherwise the old management system is prone to cutting off the fuel injectors before you hit full power..."

this is from interview with Colin Blowers

Is that truth ??

[fr335tyl3r]

The quote you put in sounds like crap to me :).

The only way the stock ECU will limit power is if you reach the boost limit (around 1BAR). If you use a boost controller correctly and adjust under this limit, you will have no problems.

[OLD FART]

My jb with i/cooler had 207 hp at wheels with 17 lbs boost std computer and manual boost controler(Turbosmart) and the air fuel ratios were still ok (Ralliart cam as well)

[Junkers]

The quote you put in sounds like crap to me :).

How so?

[fr335tyl3r]

Because this quote...

"...an IC kit (...) needs a new computer chip, otherwise the old management system is prone to cutting off the fuel injectors before you hit full power..."

Does not make sense (ie, sounds like crap). There is no real need to add a new computer chip if you are only adding an intercooler.

[Junkers]

Sorry, thought you were talking about something I said

[truespinmice]

Try disconnecting the rubber hose that goes to the actuator then take your car for a drive and see if it goes over 0.4 bar (only do this once or twice, the car may jerk if you hold your footdown too long aswell). If it does go over 0.4 bar you can use a manual BC to change the boost but if it doesn't you MAY need a new actuator.

I have just done it.
Boost goes over 0.4 bar (0.7 for safety).....so now I need new actuator ? :?
or maybe I can do something?

[Starion_Turbo]

if your getting .5 BAR then you wont need a new auctuator, if your not getting .5 then the spring on the actuator could just be wearing

have you tried a boost controller yet? they pretty cheap and could possibly raise your boost back to .5 or more.