Austarion

Check out my new fuel pump.
It will flow 4.4 Ltr/min at 3 bar. They tell me it is good for 600hp on a turbo car or 750 Hp on a naturally aspirated car, I will never have fuel pump delivery problerms again.
I also cut an access hole above the pump so I can get at the pump easier in the future. Check out the picks and tell me what you think.

Be sure that your fuel reg is able to let enough fuel through at light loads to maintain proper fuel pressure regulation. Also, be aware that higher flow rates (at the same pressure) means more current, so check that you aren't going over the rated current. I think the 044 would be about 2 times the flowrate of a standard starion pump.. Remember 4 * 550cc injectors (good for 300+engine HP) flow 2.2li/min....

Only real longer term problem with an overrated fuel pump is that it puts a lot of extra heat (50-60 watts) into the fuel which can cause problems in warmer weather.

Thanks for your advice Jake, I was wondering if the regualtor could return enough fuel to the tank to maintain regulation. I will have to put a pressure gauge on the rail and see. The pump draws 13 amps at 3 bar, this current will increase when manifold pressure increase. The relay and wiring will cope with the extra current.
50-60W That is a lot of energy dissapated in the fuel to cool the pump.

Do you need a lift pump to supply the 044 to get the rated flow?

Not sure on the lift pump bit. It's something I wondered about also. Logic would say that once the pump is primed a pump is a pump is a pump. If the factory pump got away without a lift pump then any aftermarket replacement should also.
The real restriction on how far the EFI pump will be able to lift the fuel is whether there's anywhere in the low pressure fuel circuit before the pump that the petrol is getting below its vapour pressure. If there is, it's a problem because the petrol will vapourise and cause trouble. I would suggest that the worst case for this would be full flowrate at low output pressure, i.e pumping into an open pipe. If you set the pump up to pump into a clear tube and feed it back into the tank (no reg or anything so low pressure), I guess any vapour locking/surging would be able to be felt as unsteadiness in the flowrate and unsteady flow type noises in the pump.. Bubbles would show if any air was being sucked in..
With the heat thing, I know some toyotas ran a setup that drove the fuel pump with a lower voltage at light load (lower voltage = lower flowrate) and turned up the voltage at higher loads. It would probably not be worth the effort of setting it up though as a retrofit, would take a bit of electronics and is another thing to go wrong..

Duncan..

I would strongly suggest you run a new power feed to the pump maybe use the existng pump wiring to trigger a relay.
You might get a shock when you measure the voltage back there when the pumps running.
The pump is a DC electric motor the speed (and therefore delivery) is directly proportional to the voltage supplied.
You might have a grunter pump but not much good if your only runing at 10V! You will find the quoted flow rate will be at 13.8V.

All excellent points above. I would suggest that you fit a surge tank and pre pump if you intend on racing the car to stop the pump from losing fuel supply under hard cornering with low fuel levels by providing a constant supply to the big 044. It's not necessary, but it does help. And it also assists in reducing the heating of fuel in the tank.

I had a problem with the fuel overheating. The surge tank would get that hot i couldn't touch it :o

The fuel was acting as a cooling system as it passed thru the fuel rail.

Ash

i would make sure you always have 13.8 volts at the pump, that will prevent it overheating so much. and re run you cables to it, nice big 2.5mm^2 or even 4mm^2 cables will keep the voltage drop low and the current down. a cooling fan could be an option too?

If you run a surge tank setup, you would need a pre pump that matches the flow of the 044 pump. Otherwise wouldnt running the return line back into the surge tank mean the fuel will run hotter as the returned fuel will run back through the pump heating it further. Rather than using a cooling fan, running a heat exchanger on the return line to cool the fuel.

That's beautiful......Nice work. Let us know how you go with the problems the other guys are mentioning.

This is the voltage measured at the pump with the motor running(and the pump of course) The battery voltage is 13.4 (a bit low) The pump voltage is 12.4.



Im happy with that. I have re-wired the fuel pump relay, fuel pump fuse, and battery wiring. The standard wiring to the pump is quite thick.

i run the same pump on my staz (same hole cut in the floor too good tinking) i use all the original wiring and have not had any probs. it enen supplies enough fuel with two 930cc injectors to support me running 22psi boost preasure on cold nights

Once the revs get up there a bit, the voltage should raise a little aswell.

here is an alternative on enlarging the cover plate hole

http://www.starquestclub.com/forums/vie ... 737#402737