Austarion

TBI Rebuild:

Not the cleanest result but there are plenty of other things to be doing!

Stuff you need:

• High tensile Hex Head bolts:
  4x M4x10
  2x M4x16
  1x M4x20
  6x M5x10
  8x M5x12
  2x M5x16
  High tensile hex head cap bolts
  2x M6x20
  Stainless Steel Countersunk (length includes head)
  2x M4x10
  Spring lock washers
  6x M4
  16x M5
  2x M6
  Flat washers
  4x M4
  And Thread locker!

• TBI Rebuild kit Purchased from Brian @ Lower shores Performance in USA
  came with:
  Paper gasket between throttle body and inlet manifold
  Lemon Oring between two halves of throttle body
  2 small Orings for fuel pressure regulator
  2 Orings for injectors
  2 seals for injector seats
  2 injector caps
  1 diaphragm for inside fuel pulsation thing
  Ask for oring for fuel inlet pipe and 2x seals for throttle shaft
  injector clips with 10cm length cable.

Tips/Checklist:
Mark the vacuum hoses with tape as to where they go!
Have car on slope so anything that falls into inlet manifold falls away from the inlet ports of the head
Carb cleaner in all holes, vacuum ports etc clean with toothbrush
Make sure gasket areas are clean and flat
Install new o-rings with light oil
Replace injector clips even if they look OK.
Don't forget teflon washer on TPS side on throttle shaft. goes between circlip and throttle body to stop the circlip digging in.
Take photos of the dissasmbly so you know which way around things go.
Some screws will be very stuck, hack saw so a flat head screw driver fits well.
Do this on a strip of wood to prevent damage to underside of throttle body and so it doesn't rest on the throttle lever or TPS base. The original mounting bolts can be dropped in the holes to prevent the throttle body twisting when undoing tough screws.
When removing butterfly/throttle plate screws they will tough. Make sure the screwdriver tip is in good shape and fits really well. When screws removed de-burr the back side of the throttle shaft to prevent any burrs from scoring the throttle body when the shaft is hammered out.
Replace screws and use plenty of strong oil resistant thread locker. These must never fall out! :)

Sensors:
Injectors 1-3 ohm
TPS 0k-6.8k smooth linear sweep, no jumping on the meter reading
ISC Motor apply 6v to retract and extend the tip. Pull back the rubber boot
and lightly grease shaft. Split boots fix with impact adhesive.
ISC idle switch. Retract motor and press the tip. Click should be felt/heard
and continuity made on switch.
Idle fuel mixture pot, check resistance
Inspect the wires where they enter the sensors. Apply glue to base of wires
where they enter the sensors to work like a cable strain relief.
Make sure sensors connectors are clean inside.

Before:







After:

Nicely done. There is a lot of work in that...is it back together and running?
What was the reason for pulling it down?

enthuzed wrote:Nicely done. There is a lot of work in that...is it back together and running?
What was the reason for pulling it down?

Thanks, no haven't put it on yet just been making up an EGR blanking plate. The seals were actually pretty good condition, apart from the throttle seals. You can see petrol has been seeping out, probably when under boost. Also, the paper gasket look a bit ropey, might have been leaking water into inlet manifold. Will have to set it all up, TPS adjustment and fast idle adjustment screw etc.

Next Job is to sort out the mess that is the oil return feed from the T3 turbo. The bolts were barely more than finger tight and with no obvious gasket installed. Digital cameras are great for reaching into places!




Spot the problem on the wastegate

was the intentionally welded shut? Maybe there was supposed to be an external gate wacked on?

Feel like a right idiot! That weld is just for a sort of cover over the wastegate shaft. The wategate is fine, seems to have quite a bit of preload and the actuator is pretty tough! I'm guessing somewhere around 10psi.

Bleed valve binned, was leaking huge amounts of boost. Won't be good for airflow sensed car!

New oil return pipe arrived, gaskets and hardware and some new pipe. :)

popup wrote:Feel like a right idiot! That weld is just for a sort of cover over the wastegate shaft. The wategate is fine, seems to have quite a bit of preload and the actuator is pretty tough! I'm guessing somewhere around 10psi.

Are you sure???
Does the shaft turn with that weld there? If that shaft doesn't rotate, you will have a problem without an external gate.

Yes absolutely - that weld on the shaft to the exhaust housing will stop the wastegate from working, because that arm should rotate to open and close the wastegate internally.

As Tomsum and Woody both said, that is usually only welded when someone is running an external wastegate.

So basically if the wastegate is welded closed, you will be running full boost, and at risk of overboosting and melting things, or if it's welded partly open then it won't work properly either.

That weld is definitely a problem tho - cos it definitely looks like it's welded that shaft in position

what bleed valve did you bin? in the absence of a wastegate, bleed valves or blow off valves can be used to bleed off excess boost and do the work of the wastegate.. this might explain why this bleed valve you binned was "leaking" boost :o

The actual wastegate shaft is smaller in diameter. You can see the shaft weld onto the end of the lever, and can just about make out the diameter. A lot smaller than the collar thing that I once thought was the shaft!

As for the bleed valve, its a crude brass thing that bleeds off air. Better to run straight to the actuator or install a spring and ball MBC.

Oh haha that makes sense. It's like a sleeve over the shaft. Never seen that before!
Interesting, but yes I see how that would work

MitsuMadness wrote:Oh haha that makes sense. It's like a sleeve over the shaft. Never seen that before!

Exactly that. Sure it isn't the same to when I worked on a T25 Garrett but there seem to be so many combinations of turbines, exhasut housings, bearings makes it very confusing identifying turbos.

Also is that exhause housing not flush against that dump pipe? or is that just a trick with the photo

WidebodyWoody wrote:Also is that exhause housing not flush against that dump pipe? or is that just a trick with the photo

I know what you mean, the photo makes it look worse it isn't quite straight. However, there is no sign of leaking, I think its one of the circular style exit rather than a flat mating surface. Forgotten the technical term!

After thinking about the lack of heatshield (http://forums.austarion.com/viewtopic.php?t=14798) I decided to build one to fit around the T3.

Made out of a 500mm x 250mm x 1.5mm aluminium sheet, from ebay for under a tenner including postage! Was easy to work with basic tools but feels quite string, especially as the boxed section is folded over and riveted.





Should be ready to take it out for its first real drive.