FIRST PIX of TWINCAM SETUP
This is what the thermo adaptor looks like.
The T adaptor in the pix has a AN-8 to -10 adaptor fitted, with a barb fitting. This was changed to a AN-8 to -6 adaptor.
The idea is that one goes to the turbo water inlet, the other is capped at the moment, but can be routed to an air seperator/bleed tank, if required.
The T adaptor is set at 45 degrees with the AN elbow to clear the rocker cover breather (AN-8, not shown).
![Image](http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/str16v0019a.jpg)
The T adaptor in the pix has a AN-8 to -10 adaptor fitted, with a barb fitting. This was changed to a AN-8 to -6 adaptor.
The idea is that one goes to the turbo water inlet, the other is capped at the moment, but can be routed to an air seperator/bleed tank, if required.
The T adaptor is set at 45 degrees with the AN elbow to clear the rocker cover breather (AN-8, not shown).
![Image](http://www.fr33z3.net/starions/str16v0019a.jpg)
- Cookiemonster
- Mother Goose
- Posts: 3177
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 4:33 pm
- Location: Sydney
Thank you Cookie. :D
Thats not to say the thermo adaptor could not be done better.
For instance, the AN-6 at the top of the unit would be better to a AN-8
(a simple change) feeding a T with 2x AN-6 outlets.
Also, when it was all fitted to the block, it was apparent that there was a heap of available space BELOW the adaptor, which could have been used.
In other words, if the adaptor block had been extended down, then it would be easy to fit the temp gauge sensor and a heater circuit feed outlet. I diddnt do this as I thought it would prang into the water return pipe that wraps around the back of the block. Bugger! :x
Thats not to say the thermo adaptor could not be done better.
For instance, the AN-6 at the top of the unit would be better to a AN-8
(a simple change) feeding a T with 2x AN-6 outlets.
Also, when it was all fitted to the block, it was apparent that there was a heap of available space BELOW the adaptor, which could have been used.
In other words, if the adaptor block had been extended down, then it would be easy to fit the temp gauge sensor and a heater circuit feed outlet. I diddnt do this as I thought it would prang into the water return pipe that wraps around the back of the block. Bugger! :x
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- Big Dorifto
- Posts: 70
- Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2005 1:24 am
- Location: The Netherlands
cylinders 1 to 3 gave approx 175psi (dry)
cylinder #4 about 115 dry.
it got up to 140 with some oil in the cylinder,
so i guess it does not have a bent valve.
i need to check it again, now it has been run.
i need to get/make a stronger throttle return spring though.
or add a second one. should have 2 anyway!
cylinder #4 about 115 dry.
it got up to 140 with some oil in the cylinder,
so i guess it does not have a bent valve.
i need to check it again, now it has been run.
i need to get/make a stronger throttle return spring though.
or add a second one. should have 2 anyway!
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