merlin wrote:Mark, I had a chat with Chris M, we will investigate getting the thermostat take-off at the back of the head CNC machined up. For something like $120 it would be a bargain solution. So, I need to finish the drawing, ASAP.
Ok well you better make one for me as well (please). Oops secret is out
Merlin, let me know how you go with the thermostat set up. We are still playing with Brents car here and its overheating issues. Not sure why Chris C built it like this but its not happy. Watch yr Turbo watercooling (if you go that way) that you dont run into the same air pocket issues from the turbo being higher than the radiator.
flav, I personnaly think taking the return water from the front of the head is a bad idea, but I have no previous experience or anectdotal evidence to back up that opinion.
Chris Meek thought it was a bad idea too, but we have not discussed it in any detail, yet.
How does Brents turbo water header tank thingy work?
Where do the air bubbles go?
Does it have a removable lid?
Are you supposed to bleed it?
I am pressing on with the drawings for the thermo adaptor each night.
Its getting there. Will probably make a wooden mock-up on the weekend to check all the clearances etc. I dont like going into production without a prototype first.
2000_Turbo seems to have a nice housing there but im not sure if that pipe gets squashed in the back there on the firewall, Brents firewall has been fondled with a hammer to fit the trigger unit which looks like it may be required in this instance. The front welsh plug has been removed and a piece of pipe has been screwed in there above the water pump, (clearly visible pic of the welch on your engine) which may be leading to circulation problems of the rear cylinders. The current setup with the water cooling to the turbo is taken from the heater pipe in the back, goes to the header tank, which has been installed due to the turbo water inlet being close to the radiator cap height, to avoid system air of course. The water comes in the tank and feeds to the turbo then down to the lower hose inlet area. This side of the turbo is fine but it needs to get its water from the thermostat housing cover, just like any STD JB water cooled unit which is what we are currently doing. Im hoping i dont have to pull it and change it all around to thermostat in the rear but if this does not work out properly i may have no choice, or mabey i can run some dash 8 hoses to the back of the block and do it that way. The header tank has a cap that unscrews and final filling/checking is done from there, but this system is all far from perfect. This is meant to be a very powerful engine but in its current guise it is not, and not safe to push it at all. However give me some time and we will give you figures, theres plenty to do yet. Keep me informed on how you go because im 50/50 on yanking it out and doing it properly. How many of these has CC built, or anyone, that actually work in this configuration? Anyone know? I must also stress that Brent has spent a hell of alot of money on trying to get this right, this thing boasts the most expensive radiator hoses that come from NASA and a radiator thats as thick as most Blondes i know. All to keep it cool, but it aint working...Now its at ZOOM TUNING...God help us all!
Last edited by flav on Fri Jun 10, 2005 3:05 am, edited 1 time in total.
merlin wrote:Mark, I had a chat with Chris M, we will investigate getting the thermostat take-off at the back of the head CNC machined up. For something like $120 it would be a bargain solution. So, I need to finish the drawing, ASAP.
Merlin that engine looks outstanding :drool:
I to am doing a VR4 conversion (whole engine) and would be after a thermostate take off as well, if its not a problem?
:x 
