Many shades of Red (now one shade of Green)
-
panda
- Enthusiast
- Posts: 680
- Joined: Fri Apr 18, 2008 2:56 pm
- Location: Mount Gambier, South Australia
Who said forums are a waste of time. Look what I've learnt today, so educational ... :D
Dreams have no limits.
1982 JA - Ex Enthuzed
1982 JA - For Sale - pending
1983 JA - Ex Auto-cross car - being parted out
1983 JA - Being parted out
1984 JA - Rolling shell - For Sale
1985 JB - Rally car project
1985 JB - Autocross car
1985 JB - Week-end cruiser
1982 JA - Ex Enthuzed
1982 JA - For Sale - pending
1983 JA - Ex Auto-cross car - being parted out
1983 JA - Being parted out
1984 JA - Rolling shell - For Sale
1985 JB - Rally car project
1985 JB - Autocross car
1985 JB - Week-end cruiser
Starion started up first time after sitting for about 6-7 months! :D Brake lines replace, flexi lines replaced. New caliper piston/dust boot. Front wings restored. Inner wings painted with some epoxy paint. Engine bay painted. Ended up taking far more off than I thought I would 
Some hints I found from my car:
Make sure the bottom of the wings are cleaned out often as all the grot from the windscreen panel gets washed down in there. I had a few handfulls of damp soil and sand. I think opening the door and getting a hose pipe/pressure washer would get the worst of it out.
Also, my brake one way valve was gummed up and was actually letting boost from the intake manifold to the master servo! :o I took it out and soaked it in WD40 from both sides. Shake it loads, put hot water through it and it seems to have done the trick. I'm guessing its a ball and spring sort of check valve.
Flushed radiator out with lots of hot water. Was taking it to put back on car and thought, oh shit dropped a bolt in it. Turns out this was rattling inside, must have dislodged it with the cleaning.
Mounting on prop shaft, think this is normal to allow it to go up and down?
Its had some bodywork done with a previous owner in the past which was just plate slapped on top, tack welded and with body filler. Now its at a workshop getting the bodge/rust cut out, don't have a welder (at the moment LOL)
Some hints I found from my car:
Make sure the bottom of the wings are cleaned out often as all the grot from the windscreen panel gets washed down in there. I had a few handfulls of damp soil and sand. I think opening the door and getting a hose pipe/pressure washer would get the worst of it out.
Also, my brake one way valve was gummed up and was actually letting boost from the intake manifold to the master servo! :o I took it out and soaked it in WD40 from both sides. Shake it loads, put hot water through it and it seems to have done the trick. I'm guessing its a ball and spring sort of check valve.
Flushed radiator out with lots of hot water. Was taking it to put back on car and thought, oh shit dropped a bolt in it. Turns out this was rattling inside, must have dislodged it with the cleaning.
Mounting on prop shaft, think this is normal to allow it to go up and down?
Its had some bodywork done with a previous owner in the past which was just plate slapped on top, tack welded and with body filler. Now its at a workshop getting the bodge/rust cut out, don't have a welder (at the moment LOL)
Last edited by popup on Fri Jun 25, 2021 8:01 pm, edited 4 times in total.
1986 UK 2 litre intercooled narrow body
Long overdue update!
It passed its MOT (yearly safety check) with only an advisory about the rear handbrake not holding well. It got used over the Summer and even made it to a retro car show where another Starion had turned up! First Starion I've seen other than my own!
Working from front to back of the car, I think most places a the front half have been cleaned, wire brushed, treated with rust converter and painted.
It did blow the hose between the turbo and intercooler. That ally pipe was not flared/swaged and the pipe slid off. Black smoke and about 10mph top speed!
Got the instrument cover flocked as the sun reflecting onto the windscreen was so annoying!
Have a huge list of things to do (most is purchased sitting in boxes)
Rebuild rear calipers with new pistons, seals, handbrake bearings and pads.
Complete all new brake lines for rear (the front hard lines and flexi pipes have been done)
Remove rear bumper and cleaned, fix any possible rust, paint inside it.
Install massive thick plate onto transmission and give it new fluid.
Replace LSD oil
Install Ebay cheapy adjustable cam gear
Clean, wire brush, paint inside arches on rear
Probably loads of other things as once you start unearthing stuff the list grows.
Changed colour, I know green isn't everyones taste but it needed something to cover it and I'm more interested in getting it mechanically sound, future proofed and rust free. No point getting an expensive paint job for now, this is Marine paint!
Spark plugs, don't know how old they are. Not happy with the un-evenness of the colouring but it'll do for the moment until I can tear down the engine.
Fixed all the clunking when pulling away, turns out almost all the exhaust rubbers had perished
Fitted LEDs to the sidelights
Started work on the rear, removed antenna and filled hole in the body and spoiler. Discovered the boot was leaking water. Turns out the light clusters had a terrible gasket made from what looks like a couple layers of cardboard and sticky tape!
Cut new gaskets out of a sheet of neoprene and applied sealant on both sides.
Fixed the reverse lights. Searching back on the history, its had a problem with the reverse lights since at least 2007! When I bought it, the reverse light bulbs were in the glove box :roll:
Put bulbs in, and they were permanently on. Look at wires hanging down under the car:
Bit of a mess so put a new section of wire in, but lights still didn't work. Turns out the ball was missing on the reverse switch on the transmission!
:o
It passed its MOT (yearly safety check) with only an advisory about the rear handbrake not holding well. It got used over the Summer and even made it to a retro car show where another Starion had turned up! First Starion I've seen other than my own!
Working from front to back of the car, I think most places a the front half have been cleaned, wire brushed, treated with rust converter and painted.
It did blow the hose between the turbo and intercooler. That ally pipe was not flared/swaged and the pipe slid off. Black smoke and about 10mph top speed!
Got the instrument cover flocked as the sun reflecting onto the windscreen was so annoying!
Have a huge list of things to do (most is purchased sitting in boxes)
Rebuild rear calipers with new pistons, seals, handbrake bearings and pads.
Complete all new brake lines for rear (the front hard lines and flexi pipes have been done)
Remove rear bumper and cleaned, fix any possible rust, paint inside it.
Install massive thick plate onto transmission and give it new fluid.
Replace LSD oil
Install Ebay cheapy adjustable cam gear
Clean, wire brush, paint inside arches on rear
Probably loads of other things as once you start unearthing stuff the list grows.
Changed colour, I know green isn't everyones taste but it needed something to cover it and I'm more interested in getting it mechanically sound, future proofed and rust free. No point getting an expensive paint job for now, this is Marine paint!
Spark plugs, don't know how old they are. Not happy with the un-evenness of the colouring but it'll do for the moment until I can tear down the engine.
Fixed all the clunking when pulling away, turns out almost all the exhaust rubbers had perished
Fitted LEDs to the sidelights
Started work on the rear, removed antenna and filled hole in the body and spoiler. Discovered the boot was leaking water. Turns out the light clusters had a terrible gasket made from what looks like a couple layers of cardboard and sticky tape!
Cut new gaskets out of a sheet of neoprene and applied sealant on both sides.
Fixed the reverse lights. Searching back on the history, its had a problem with the reverse lights since at least 2007! When I bought it, the reverse light bulbs were in the glove box :roll:
Put bulbs in, and they were permanently on. Look at wires hanging down under the car:
Bit of a mess so put a new section of wire in, but lights still didn't work. Turns out the ball was missing on the reverse switch on the transmission!
:o
Last edited by popup on Fri Jun 25, 2021 8:06 pm, edited 2 times in total.
1986 UK 2 litre intercooled narrow body
Long term this will be happening (stealing Prozacs idea! :D)
CAD drawn up and printed in paper, then a black plastic wheel made to try it before cutting the metal trigger disc. 50mm diameter, seems to be 110 degrees anticlockwise of the larger slot. Opening is 30 degrees.
On a scope (needs the ECU connected or pullup resistors). Dizzy was turned by hand so the pulse lengths are not accurate but I think the positions of the new window is right.
- Mighty Max MPI intake manifold
EVO 4 injectors
EVO 8 Ecu
ECU Plugs from a Montero
Engine loom from a Proton Satria GTI with the Satria throttle body, Ignition coil pack, and ignition amplifier (J722T). Its all Mitsubishi stuff really.
Volkswagon TDI 3 Bar Map and IAT Sensor to be mounted in the top of the Mighty Max MPI inlet manifold. This will run speed density so no need for the Evo MAF.
Mighty Max optical dizzy with new window cut to get the 4-2 trigger pattern
CAD drawn up and printed in paper, then a black plastic wheel made to try it before cutting the metal trigger disc. 50mm diameter, seems to be 110 degrees anticlockwise of the larger slot. Opening is 30 degrees.
On a scope (needs the ECU connected or pullup resistors). Dizzy was turned by hand so the pulse lengths are not accurate but I think the positions of the new window is right.
Last edited by popup on Fri Jun 25, 2021 8:09 pm, edited 2 times in total.
1986 UK 2 litre intercooled narrow body
-
WidebodyWoody
- Woodwide
- Posts: 3133
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 6:24 pm
- Location: Gold Coast
- Contact:
Re: Many shades of Red
Edited by request of popup
Last edited by WidebodyWoody on Tue Jun 03, 2014 4:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I would try and find a picture/google of the gasket you need, I don't see why one can't be made from paper with a bit of time, some gasket punches and scalpel.
The top right vacuum port actually has a channel running in towards the throttle opening if you look closely. From memory that area around the outside I think is the water channel.
I can't remember what the inlet manifold side looks like, I guess there is a hole for the water to down. Perhaps have gasket paper on an area that is not compressed is prone to peeling off when surrounding by water?
If you get stuck I might have some more photos.
The top right vacuum port actually has a channel running in towards the throttle opening if you look closely. From memory that area around the outside I think is the water channel.
I can't remember what the inlet manifold side looks like, I guess there is a hole for the water to down. Perhaps have gasket paper on an area that is not compressed is prone to peeling off when surrounding by water?
If you get stuck I might have some more photos.
1986 UK 2 litre intercooled narrow body
-
WidebodyWoody
- Woodwide
- Posts: 3133
- Joined: Thu Jan 08, 2004 6:24 pm
- Location: Gold Coast
- Contact:
Thanks Prozac! Getting the connectors for the ECU was a right pain, cut from a loom and shipped from the States. However, I have a spare plug now so the extra pins may come in handy/sell them on!
So it was sat for a lot of the winter without me touching it due to being busy but as the better weather came I got cracking once again! So getting to work on the rear of the car now.
Most of the bushes had been polybushed apart from the rear anti roll bar. This needed sorting judging by the state of the old ones. They didn't come out easily, in fact a breaker bar was used to shear the bolts in half. The washers and bolt had all rusted together.
Rear calipers were inspected. I knew the handbrake didn't hold the car at all well.
Following Kev's guide from starquestclub on rear caliper rebuild I tackled them. New pistons ordered from Rock auto. Seal kit from Bigg Red in the UK. New roller bearings for the lever arm. Annoying having to order again from the states for the handbrake cables, postage costs are $$$. The hand brake cables are unobtainable in the UK unless you pay the even bigger Mitsubishi price.
Pistons looked OK, probably could have got away with them, but one had looked like it had been hit with something. Wind them out:
Made a bit of a mess as didn't realise there is a metal ring that holds the dust boot in place.
Components of the rear hand brake mechanism
Using my favourite tool to hold the tension on the belleville washers while inserting the lever arm.
Completed with a wirebrush and epoxy paint in the arches. The handbrake is incredible now. A good sign is the adjuster by the handbrake lever pulls straight and is tight enough to be able to undo wheel nuts with the wheels off the ground.
Then onto the brake lines for the rear, been putting this off as the one that runs front front to back under the car looked a pain. Photo shows the end close to the rear 3 way T piece. Good thing it was getting changed!
Next up new fluids due to leaking/mangled sump plugs and fitting this badboy :D Nice and shiny!
Shot up into the gearbox, looks OK to my untrained eyes!.
New copper washers and dab of sealant on the plugs.
Bit of oil on the cover on the bell housing. Not sure where its coming from so will need to keep my eye on it.
And this has finally been cut. Drilled by a steady hand then carefully filed into the best shape possible. Really important not to bend or kink the disc as the gap it runs in is pretty tight. I hope it bloody works!
Started it up for the first time since October 2013 and it started first time, literally the engine rotated one or two times and it fired. Boosting like
:o :D
So it was sat for a lot of the winter without me touching it due to being busy but as the better weather came I got cracking once again! So getting to work on the rear of the car now.
Most of the bushes had been polybushed apart from the rear anti roll bar. This needed sorting judging by the state of the old ones. They didn't come out easily, in fact a breaker bar was used to shear the bolts in half. The washers and bolt had all rusted together.
Rear calipers were inspected. I knew the handbrake didn't hold the car at all well.
Following Kev's guide from starquestclub on rear caliper rebuild I tackled them. New pistons ordered from Rock auto. Seal kit from Bigg Red in the UK. New roller bearings for the lever arm. Annoying having to order again from the states for the handbrake cables, postage costs are $$$. The hand brake cables are unobtainable in the UK unless you pay the even bigger Mitsubishi price.
Pistons looked OK, probably could have got away with them, but one had looked like it had been hit with something. Wind them out:
Made a bit of a mess as didn't realise there is a metal ring that holds the dust boot in place.
Components of the rear hand brake mechanism
Using my favourite tool to hold the tension on the belleville washers while inserting the lever arm.
Completed with a wirebrush and epoxy paint in the arches. The handbrake is incredible now. A good sign is the adjuster by the handbrake lever pulls straight and is tight enough to be able to undo wheel nuts with the wheels off the ground.
Then onto the brake lines for the rear, been putting this off as the one that runs front front to back under the car looked a pain. Photo shows the end close to the rear 3 way T piece. Good thing it was getting changed!
Next up new fluids due to leaking/mangled sump plugs and fitting this badboy :D Nice and shiny!
Shot up into the gearbox, looks OK to my untrained eyes!.
New copper washers and dab of sealant on the plugs.
Bit of oil on the cover on the bell housing. Not sure where its coming from so will need to keep my eye on it.
And this has finally been cut. Drilled by a steady hand then carefully filed into the best shape possible. Really important not to bend or kink the disc as the gap it runs in is pretty tight. I hope it bloody works!
Started it up for the first time since October 2013 and it started first time, literally the engine rotated one or two times and it fired. Boosting like
:o :D
Last edited by popup on Fri Jun 25, 2021 8:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1986 UK 2 litre intercooled narrow body
And as for the dizzy trigger, I have a feeling the timing for TDC for Piston #1 won't line up on the rotor arm. But that doesn't matter as I will be using a coil pack. Might need to make some new aligning marks as the original mark punched on the end of the shaft near the gear is probably in the wrong place.
1986 UK 2 litre intercooled narrow body
After a great run on my first track event (hopefully get a video of some of it)
I decided to look at the MPI intake manifold I got from a Mighty Max
from the states.
The fuel regulator mounted to the fuel rail needs to handle boost pressures which the
original probably doesn't
I bought a second hand Denso EVO 4 hoping it would fit as it looked similar. I was wrong! The mighty max fuel
rail has an 11mm hole and the EVO use 16mm.
I thought I was going to have to get an aftermarket fuel rail adapter and regulator but in searching for
compatible ones I discovered that other japanese makes had very similar looking regualtor, I guess again made
by Denso. It the end I decided to take another gamble and bought a Nissan R33 GTR fuel regulator.
Bingo! Although the mounting holes don't line up but at least the important part fits.
So this happened.
I tried to clean the old cast aluminium but gave up and decided to remove the casting marks. I then
cut the centre out to clear the bolts on the head (perhaps for a mechanical fuel pump?) and give it a spray paint.
New gaskets made from gasket paper and Hylomar blue used on all surfaces.
EVO 4 injectors installed.
The single wire water sensor is for the water gauge and the two wire one is for the ECU.
Here is the VW MAP sensor and combined IAT to run speed density on the EVO 8 ECU.
And then I cut one side off!
And mounted it by drilling a 12mm hole for the sensor to protude and a 5mm hole tapped to M6
to hold it in place. The small recess in the manifold and the way the connector is angled out
you'd be hard pressed to believe the two weren't designed for each other!
Installed a new 82 degree celcius thermostat, some sources say 82 others say 88 so decided to go with the lower one.
Next problem to solve is the throttle cable bracket and the fact that the cable wants to be mounted
to pull the throttle lever towards the plenum/manifold.
This is OK on most mitsubishi manifolds as the throttle body sits on the end and runs down the side of the plenum.
I stared at it for a while and decided to take the lever off and flip it around. This looked good, but then
I lost the stops for both full throttle and closed throttle (adjustable with a bolt). Stared at it some more then
had a great (IMO) idea of getting another throttle lever and running one for the throttle stops and the other for
the cable to attach to! I need to get one first from a scrpa yard but I think it should work.
Also working out a shape with cardboard needed to make a bracket to hold the cable, will probably use two
of the throttle body bolts.
I decided to look at the MPI intake manifold I got from a Mighty Max
from the states.
The fuel regulator mounted to the fuel rail needs to handle boost pressures which the
original probably doesn't
I bought a second hand Denso EVO 4 hoping it would fit as it looked similar. I was wrong! The mighty max fuel
rail has an 11mm hole and the EVO use 16mm.
I thought I was going to have to get an aftermarket fuel rail adapter and regulator but in searching for
compatible ones I discovered that other japanese makes had very similar looking regualtor, I guess again made
by Denso. It the end I decided to take another gamble and bought a Nissan R33 GTR fuel regulator.
Bingo! Although the mounting holes don't line up but at least the important part fits.
So this happened.
I tried to clean the old cast aluminium but gave up and decided to remove the casting marks. I then
cut the centre out to clear the bolts on the head (perhaps for a mechanical fuel pump?) and give it a spray paint.
New gaskets made from gasket paper and Hylomar blue used on all surfaces.
EVO 4 injectors installed.
The single wire water sensor is for the water gauge and the two wire one is for the ECU.
Here is the VW MAP sensor and combined IAT to run speed density on the EVO 8 ECU.
And then I cut one side off!
And mounted it by drilling a 12mm hole for the sensor to protude and a 5mm hole tapped to M6
to hold it in place. The small recess in the manifold and the way the connector is angled out
you'd be hard pressed to believe the two weren't designed for each other!
Installed a new 82 degree celcius thermostat, some sources say 82 others say 88 so decided to go with the lower one.
Next problem to solve is the throttle cable bracket and the fact that the cable wants to be mounted
to pull the throttle lever towards the plenum/manifold.
This is OK on most mitsubishi manifolds as the throttle body sits on the end and runs down the side of the plenum.
I stared at it for a while and decided to take the lever off and flip it around. This looked good, but then
I lost the stops for both full throttle and closed throttle (adjustable with a bolt). Stared at it some more then
had a great (IMO) idea of getting another throttle lever and running one for the throttle stops and the other for
the cable to attach to! I need to get one first from a scrpa yard but I think it should work.
Also working out a shape with cardboard needed to make a bracket to hold the cable, will probably use two
of the throttle body bolts.
Last edited by popup on Fri Jun 25, 2021 8:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1986 UK 2 litre intercooled narrow body
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