Als POS

Display your ride and post power figures, dyno runs, drag and circuit times.
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Alspos
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Post by Alspos »

The poor soul was a cordia, 4G63 conversion, with aftermarket computer judging by the cut wires. Had a big cooler but it was damaged, no turbo or exhaust manifold.
TOMSUN
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Post by TOMSUN »

One of the best junk yard finds. Nice.
1985 JB Starion #157
4gpwr
I love starions
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alpos

Post by 4gpwr »

I told Al i was feeling lucky for him that day. Next time Alpos i tell you something like that buy a lotto ticket :D
4Gs Rule
Bitza
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Post by Bitza »

Here is the poor cordia it came out of:

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Alspos
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Post by Alspos »

Where did you find/get that pic?
Bitza
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Post by Bitza »

Cordiafreaks on facebook. :)
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Alspos
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Post by Alspos »

Got myself a donor engine to hopefully swap some bits into.

RWD block wouldn't turn when I got it, so I started stripping it down to find out why. I think I found the issue!

#1 rod

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#1 bearing

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Crank bearings not too happy either

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:shock:

Measured the main bearing bolt centres to ensure the fwd crank will fit in rwd block. Also measured if the snout lengths are the same....

FWD
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RWD
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SAME!

Differences in flywheels for info.

FWD

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RWD

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Not sure if the flywheel from RWD engine is any good, going by the amount of clutch dust and spots on the flywheel....and the cracks. Can they be machined out?

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Stay tuned.
Komeuppance
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Post by Komeuppance »

From the pic of that flywheel, it looks to be clutch material that make it look cracked. A good machining will clean it right up if that's the case.

-Robert
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Now: Australian Compatible!
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Alspos
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Post by Alspos »

Latest fix. Windscreen garnish that has clips made from notavalablium. So the next best option is to whack a couple of screws in them. I put two screws in each piece of the garnish (the two outer most mounts, not the two centre mounts)

Others have done this, just figured I'd show you how I did it.

I found some grommets on ebay which are a perfect fit into the rectangle in the cowl.
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10G x 25mm long stainless screws and some sealing tape (for doors)
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Clips are long destroyed and gone.
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So....chop!
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Eeek...too late to turn back
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Smooth the bits of plastic off, dig a small furrow in the middle of the mount.
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Centre punch in the centre
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Now using 3mm drill....slowly drill from the mount side through the two layers. Be extra slow and careful. Ensure the drill is square to the mounting face
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Then using 5.5mm or 6mm drill, drill all the way through
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Done....repeat for the other outside mount points.
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In a couple of places, the hole will appear right on one of the fins. So...very carefully, chop the fin to fit the head of the screw.
I used a soldering iron to melt most of it out, stanley knife and scalpel to finish chopping the plastic, then p180 sandpaper.
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After ages, it will look like this. I coated with paint after.
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Once all the holes were done and cleaned up, I test fitted it all. I found there are rubber extrusions missing from around the plastics, so using the door seal I placed a few bits in to space the plastic from the windscreen and cowl. I'll go back later and put something black in there, for now this will do.

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Then refit the plastic trims and just nip the screws up very gently to just stop movement, no doubt if you do the screws up too tight you will crack the plastic.
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Also, one small thing, the screw hole under the passenger wiper is on an angle. I ground down a small plastic washer into a wedge so the screw top is flush when you screw it down.
This is the underside of that hole/mount.
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WidebodyWoody
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Post by WidebodyWoody »

haha awesome. These photos are exactly what I was looking for, for the positioning of those clips. I was literally asking about this today on facebook.
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Alspos
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Post by Alspos »

I know, I put a pic on fb for you.....and I finished this today, so good timing
fugazi
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Post by fugazi »

To prevent the plastic from cracking you could do the holes with a 3mm drill,
and then widen it with the solderingiron.
That makes the edges "smoother" in the hole and much stronger...
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