Things Done:
Painted most of the engine bay to help protect against rust. Could of done with 10 elbows on my arm!
Installed new oil return pipe, used a flange from ebay for the T3 and some 16mm silicone hose. Used bolts rather than allen key head bolts as I found it easier to tighten up in the position they are.
Bolted up the heatshield.
Next job is to inspect the panel under the windscreen scuttle panel and paint. Thinking of buying some pots of POR15.
Will have to get a photo of the engine bay.
Last edited by popup on Fri Jun 25, 2021 7:52 pm, edited 3 times in total.
May I suggest you wrap that silicone hose with something to shield it from heat radiation?
Or just replace it every 2 years..
I myself used some heater duct tape ( adhesive aluminium tape) that seems to be doing it's job just fine.
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83 2000EX runner.
88 2.0 Black Widebody DOHC evo 6 turbo at 1.7 bar
88 2.6 White Widebody. spun a bearing.
06 2.0 Lancer Wagon. daily driver.
Xentro wrote:May I suggest you wrap that silicone hose with something to shield it from heat radiation?
Or just replace it every 2 years..
I myself used some heater duct tape ( adhesive aluminium tape) that seems to be doing it's job just fine.
I think I have some of that stuff, its made by 3M aluminium tape. That will probably work. I thought silicone would be ok, its for the water pipes. The original pipe was Pirtek rubber hose rated for 100 celcius, which was looking very heat damaged.
Or maybe I will get some of that stuff used on the throttle cable above the turbo.
No update for ages but have been out driving it at the weekends with huge :D on my face! Lots of little things done so need to update here. Now been taken off the road to stop winter salt getting to it.
However, took it to a local classic car specialist to get it on their ramps and get their advice about the underside. Turns out, its in very good shape so dead pleased with that. Going to underseal it with some good 2 pack epoxy type paint and lots more jobs over winter, hoping the winter is a mild one. Then probably take it back to them in spring so they can do some high pressure injection sealing in the box sections underneath.
Now off the road and checking the electrics, had some issues with the headlights and turned out it was a bad fusible link. So, decided to reconditon that area with Maxi Fuses as you can't get fusible links in the UK easily. Cleaned all connectors there and all relay contacts.
Decided to remove front bumper to check it all as the fibreglass front spoiler was hanging a bit low. So, the underside of the car is very good condition with little rust, but the front bumper support/bracket not so! :o
Bought some lovely Cobalt drill bits to drill out rusty bolts too, cheap drill bits are a waste of time!
Last edited by popup on Fri Jun 25, 2021 7:55 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Got a brand new metal bumper from the local Mitsubishi dealer, ordered in from Holland I think for £60. Can not believe the low price, that must be the same price from back in the 80s! Its been painted, all new stainless steel hardware. Now I can't stop taking bits off to clean/restore LOL
Working on the headlights before the bumper can go back on, and need to take the front wings off the check them.
Shit that is cheap, I can imagine the laughter going down to the local Mitsi dealer and asking for one of them.
My UK spec one which has spent most of its life inside also has a rusty bumper frame, and moulding along the side under the plastic. But my other (Jap) one that spent 20 years outside only had surface rust on the frame.
Makes no sense man.
1985 Widebody Factory Four Wheel Steering
1986 Euro Spec-ABS,LSD etc
Salt spray + dirt? Maybe the incline of the road it is normally parked on?! Not sure, but when I heard the price I didn't even bother considering trying to repair the old one!
I now have two brackets above the intercooler hole. They must have rusted and fallen off the old bumper. They have those welded bolt holes on them, but I don't know what was meant/should bolt to it!
Thought I'd do an update in picture form, lots of removing and resotring, painting to protect parts. Regreasing headlight mechanisms, checking wiring. Slowly working from front to back. Replacing bits with stainless steel hardware wherever possible too.
FTO Steering Wheel! Only one I could find from Mitsubishi that didn't have airbag. 99 pence on ebay and fitment and indicator cancelling system is identical. Horn should work too. :D
Last edited by popup on Fri Jun 25, 2021 7:57 pm, edited 2 times in total.
I tried it once in both directions and it cancelled the indicator. The steering wheel has a brass ring for the horn contact and three holes that pins locate into. It looked identical on the rear of it to the Starion steering wheel. I thought for the price I would just try it as I wasn't sure it would work, the original leather Starion wheel was getting manky.
1982 JA - Ex Enthuzed
1982 JA - For Sale - pending
1983 JA - Ex Auto-cross car - being parted out
1983 JA - Being parted out
1984 JA - Rolling shell - For Sale
1985 JB - Rally car project
1985 JB - Autocross car
1985 JB - Week-end cruiser
