My Starion Powered Express
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turbo express
- Newcomer
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Sat Jun 07, 2008 10:54 am
- Location: Central Coast NSW
fkn awesome mate.. love the colour and the wheels too
i'm sure you wouldn't be getting too much cop trouble in that thing :beer
i'm sure you wouldn't be getting too much cop trouble in that thing :beer
quest wrote:don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lolWANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
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redzone
- racking my brains
- Posts: 5900
- Joined: Thu Oct 06, 2005 10:46 pm
- Location: sunshine coast qld
- Contact:
nice one! engine "bay" shots please :)
Fibreglass airdams $370, fibreglass front bumpers $260, reco drag links $165, alloy radiators $925 (unpolished), h/l switch rebuilds $125, all plus freight.
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
Coxs Automotive (07)54433507 3/5 Service st Maroochydore Q
www.facebook.com/coxsautomotive
www.coxsautomotive.com.au
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airbats801
- Enthusiast
- Posts: 737
- Joined: Wed Feb 02, 2005 2:46 pm
- Location: oregon, USA
- Contact:
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turbo express
- Newcomer
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Sat Jun 07, 2008 10:54 am
- Location: Central Coast NSW
Van Specs
Engine is standard l300 bottom end, 40 thou oversize, no balance shafts.
Has standard l300 head that has been recoed.
Has JA starion sump (one of the bolts on the front left corner of the sump doesnt line up, so u have to elongate the hole slighty, and use a starion sump gasket.
Has JA starion inlet and exhaust manifolds, u have to use some of the fittings out of the l300 manifold for your booster etc so they point in the right direction for booster hoses etc.
I have used the starion air box, and by bending 2 of the tabs that hold the air box into the inner gaurds they can be shaped to mount the air box where the original l300 air box is, however you need to make a tab to support the back of the air box.
I also mounted the factory oil catch can under the air box too.
Wiring is a piece of cake once u have a diagram (which i have if anyone needs).
I have also fitted a later model efi fuel tank (which fits straight in)
NOW FOR THE TRICKY BIT
The top of the throttle body where the fuel pressure reg and the fuel supply go into, you need to swap them. This is a bit tricky. The fuel pressure reg fits straight on the other side (where the supply normally is) But the supply side doesnt fit where the reg was due to the supply pipe having a step on it so then the supply pipe doesnt seal up properly. i drill the edge of mine but you need to be careful otherwise if you go in to far the o'ring wont seal.
Apart from all that
EASY!!! Now that ive done this, i reckon its a easy weekend conversion.
Oh and u need to get ur exhaust done. mine is joined up to my standard exhaust and goes shit compared to when it was straight out the turbo dump. Ill do my exhaust shortly with some 2.5 inch mandrels etc.
Ill post some more pics soon of the engine and airbox etc too.
Has standard l300 head that has been recoed.
Has JA starion sump (one of the bolts on the front left corner of the sump doesnt line up, so u have to elongate the hole slighty, and use a starion sump gasket.
Has JA starion inlet and exhaust manifolds, u have to use some of the fittings out of the l300 manifold for your booster etc so they point in the right direction for booster hoses etc.
I have used the starion air box, and by bending 2 of the tabs that hold the air box into the inner gaurds they can be shaped to mount the air box where the original l300 air box is, however you need to make a tab to support the back of the air box.
I also mounted the factory oil catch can under the air box too.
Wiring is a piece of cake once u have a diagram (which i have if anyone needs).
I have also fitted a later model efi fuel tank (which fits straight in)
NOW FOR THE TRICKY BIT
The top of the throttle body where the fuel pressure reg and the fuel supply go into, you need to swap them. This is a bit tricky. The fuel pressure reg fits straight on the other side (where the supply normally is) But the supply side doesnt fit where the reg was due to the supply pipe having a step on it so then the supply pipe doesnt seal up properly. i drill the edge of mine but you need to be careful otherwise if you go in to far the o'ring wont seal.
Apart from all that
EASY!!! Now that ive done this, i reckon its a easy weekend conversion.
Oh and u need to get ur exhaust done. mine is joined up to my standard exhaust and goes shit compared to when it was straight out the turbo dump. Ill do my exhaust shortly with some 2.5 inch mandrels etc.
Ill post some more pics soon of the engine and airbox etc too.
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turbo express
- Newcomer
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Sat Jun 07, 2008 10:54 am
- Location: Central Coast NSW
ALSO
I bought all the parts required for the conversion for $100 which included a complete JA motor, loom, and all electricals and i got to remove it all myself.
When i removed the sump off the ja i found a balance shaft bearing in the sump lol :D
So if anyone needs a ja block or head, let me know. They both need recoing.
I bought all the parts required for the conversion for $100 which included a complete JA motor, loom, and all electricals and i got to remove it all myself.
When i removed the sump off the ja i found a balance shaft bearing in the sump lol :D
So if anyone needs a ja block or head, let me know. They both need recoing.
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turbo express
- Newcomer
- Posts: 6
- Joined: Sat Jun 07, 2008 10:54 am
- Location: Central Coast NSW
oh and ALSO again lol
I used the alloy part that the oil filter goes onto off the starion (because it has the turbo oil supply running out the back of it) but u need to remove the valve and block where the cooler bolts go because the banjo fittings hit the bottom of the radiator where the pipe comes out of the tank. you could modify the bottom tank and get the pie relocated on it, but i couldnt be bothered at the moment. i will eventually put a cooler back on it.
I used the alloy part that the oil filter goes onto off the starion (because it has the turbo oil supply running out the back of it) but u need to remove the valve and block where the cooler bolts go because the banjo fittings hit the bottom of the radiator where the pipe comes out of the tank. you could modify the bottom tank and get the pie relocated on it, but i couldnt be bothered at the moment. i will eventually put a cooler back on it.
nice lookin l300 mate
swap has been done a few times here in nz
heres a link to one currently forsale (has acouple of engine bay pics)
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 059999.htm
swap has been done a few times here in nz
heres a link to one currently forsale (has acouple of engine bay pics)
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 059999.htm
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