Swedish Starion 16V

[enthuzed]

Haven't seen this post before, good work Starion EVO!

I'm glad you cut up the Volvo, we all need a good excuse to do that...

And your build ups, well, someones using their noggin.

Your buddy's burnouts is a great watch too! :)

[enthuzed]

Actually, let me re-phrase that - we need no excuse to cut up a Volvo... :D

[beetleman]

Good work my Europian friend :) :)

I know what you mean when you say snow, salt and old jap car :), thats why in winter I when I drift on parkings and streets and when I finish I always go to car wash and wash the car from salt!

[Starion EVO]

Actually, let me re-phrase that - we need no excuse to cut up a Volvo... :D

Hehe, I could not agree more :D But I thought that Volvos were considered as very good cars abroad, solid and safe :-)

Good work my Europian friend :) :)

I know what you mean when you say snow, salt and old jap car :) , thats why in winter I when I drift on parkings and streets and when I finish I always go to car wash and wash the car from salt!

We have to focus on the good parts of the winter, we can do serious power drifting with 50 hp due to the slippery roads :D

[Starion EVO]

An other problem is that the heat expansion makes the flange thicker, which put enormous pressure on the bolts, there is a cheap fix for this also. I can get back to that if someone is interested.

No one had the time to response on this so I will just be babbling on :)

The problem with the heat expansion in the manifold can cause the manifold studs to brake, this can happen in an unmodified engine but more lightly in a modified engine. Different engines are more or less sensitive to this and turbocharged engines are more lightly to have this problem due to higher exhaust gas temperatures. This "fix" I recommend is not my own idea, some intelligent manufacturers, like Saab use this with a great result.

The trick is to make the inevitable heat expansion in the manifold to influence the studs as little as possible. Nothing to do about the expansion it self, but if the studs are replaced to longer studs, the tension per diameter will be reduced and therby the studs will not be so stressed.

I made an illustration to show what I mean, the picture I modified is originally from a turbo converted Nissan 2,7 diesel engine that I made for an other application, but I think it is easy to see what I mean, normal setup:


Replace the studs for longer ones and use steel pipes to make upp for the difference from the original. There can of course be some problems with the space.

[Xentro]

Sounds like an interesting solution,

But won't the pieces of pipe expand as well?
I guess you end up with picking the right material for the studs & pipe so the studs expand the same or more as the pipe?

Well part of this problem must be why Mitsubishi upgraded the exhaust studs on 4g63's from m8 to m10 for the outer studs when they went to the 7 bolt engines.

[quest]

saw cut flange is a common mod on SQC... not on DSMs tho.
Yup, later 2nd gen DSM smallport head went to a bigger diameter stud at the ends of the manifold - usually broken on the 1st gen.

Nissan tackled it differently. CA18 for instance has 'big' holes in the stock manifold flange to allow for expansion, along with thick washers & big studs (similar diameter to the 2nd gen dsm head outter ones). I never seen one broken, of ~12 ca18s.... all perfect

[Starion EVO]

I have been working hard on my other project the BMW V12 twin turbo, but I have not forgotten about this little star!
Some new engine parts:

Valves, new and old, side by side:




Titanium retainers and harder springs for high revs:

[Starion EVO]

The pulley on the crankshaft is not a reliable component on many Mitsubishi engines. It can fall to pieces and cause severe damage. This one is not so inclined to do so. It is also slightly lighter, but that will not make so much difference this close to the center of the rotation. The bling bling is not something I care about, but it is included here :-)