Swedish Starion 16V

Starion EVO · Post by **Starion EVO** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 6:01 am

Some cosmetic stuff

Smudge and crap.

Looking better here:

Took a few turns in the washer for this.

-Perfect!

Starion EVO · Post by **Starion EVO** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 6:04 am

A slight modification on the EVO1 exhaust manifold was made, a port matching.

In action:

Starion EVO · Post by **Starion EVO** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 6:38 am

A cylinder head from an Eclipse (same as Galant). Valve seats are restored for a better flow, no bigger valves are needed.

Nice and sparkling clean:

Have you ever seen a cleaner cylinder head? :D

The crank had some minor scratches on the bearing surfaces, I did not want to have it grinded to an other dimension because of the nitrate hardening, so I did a simple fix.

Not good:

In action:

The result was extremely good and the surface has not lost any of the hardening! The picture does not do justice to the result :?

Starion EVO · Post by **Starion EVO** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 6:42 am

That is all for now, this is a slow project an it is not supposed to finished until I retire, that is 30 years from now :) I probaly missed some parts in the update, but if you have some questions, just ask, I plan to be more active from now on.

thrash · Post by **thrash** » Sun Dec 23, 2007 10:50 am

500 hp from that motor.. not possible :x

(hint: that means hurry up with it and prove me wrong :D)

Land Rocket · Post by **Land Rocket** » Mon Dec 24, 2007 3:07 pm

Wow, that is a lot of work, and some deep pockets.
Your doing a great job on the car, keep it up.

Starion EVO · Post by **Starion EVO** » Tue Dec 25, 2007 10:50 pm

thrash wrote:500 hp from that motor.. not possible :x

(hint: that means hurry up with it and prove me wrong :D)

500Hp is actually not at all a problem, are you just trying to make me work faster :D

The flow capacity in the cylinder head is better than an EVO-engine. Bearing surfaces are bigger, crankshaft stronger, the list can be made longer but I do not have the time for it.

The recipe is not difficult! Slightly modified valve seats and valves, camshafts around 272 in duration. Boost pressure from a big enough turbo and injection and timing correctly mapped, that is all, more or less. Engine of course have to be built with Forged pistons and strong rods. This is a very simple engine to take serious power out of. Nothing exotic or magical needed, just some money and skills, unfortunately I lack some of the first :(

Do you think 500Hp is impossible on an EVO-engine also? :D

This engine is not possible I guess, 530Hp on the wheels...I know the guy who built it, and it is not a very complicated engine.
http://www.garaget.org/video/82wphxzoaqoq

Starion EVO · Post by **Starion EVO** » Tue Dec 25, 2007 10:55 pm

Land Rocket wrote:Wow, that is a lot of work, and some deep pockets.
Your doing a great job on the car, keep it up.

Thank you! the pockets are not so deep at all :( I do all work my self, the parts for the engine will be the biggest problem to finance. Since I work in an engine laboratory with engine development I have a great possibility to use some equipment from work. :) The project is a slow one, I must warn you about that, what you see is work from a 3 year period....

Starion EVO · Post by **Starion EVO** » Tue Dec 25, 2007 11:38 pm

Some more parts:

A slight modification will be made to the CVS, a oil separator will be built in and a returnline will be added:

Starion EVO · Post by **Starion EVO** » Tue Dec 25, 2007 11:46 pm

Some cylinder heads were sent to the junk after analysis, this one has been reworked to much:

This cylinder head was surface grinded so much that material was taken from the valve seats:shock:

The cam sahft bearing on this one speaks for it self:

Starion EVO · Post by **Starion EVO** » Tue Dec 25, 2007 11:56 pm

I also did some minor modifications on the EVO-manifold. All sharp edges and corners are grinded down. This to prevent heat spots that can cause cracks.

Another thing that is easy to do self is to cut the material in the flange between the exhaust port. This gives the manifold greater freedom to move from heat expansion, and thereby the manifold is less lightly warped or cracked and keeps a tight seal to the cylinder head easier.

Here you can see that I have grinded the inner corners also, to avoid heatspots again!

I checked tha gasket surface on a perfectly plane surface:

thrash · Post by **thrash** » Wed Dec 26, 2007 9:06 am

so cutting thru the bolt holes is a good idea..?

Starion EVO · Post by **Starion EVO** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 9:23 am

thrash wrote:so cutting thru the bolt holes is a good idea..?

In this case and many others similar, -YES!

Can you please give me one reason why it should not be? What do you reckon the problem would be?

thrash · Post by **thrash** » Fri Dec 28, 2007 4:56 pm

i can't give you a reason - i'm not qualified enough :(

and i'm not arguing with you or anything. your reasoning makes good sense, which makes me wonder why i've never heard of it being done before!

I wonder even more why manufacturers don't do it.. the exhaust manifold and turbo are among the hottest part of the engine, so sure enough, they must expand.. even if the flange holes were 'U' shaped rather than round, the bolts would still hold it securely in place right?

Where did you get this idea from? Because if you thought of it yourself, I think you're a genius :beer

Starion EVO · Post by **Starion EVO** » Sat Dec 29, 2007 2:48 am

Well I did not figure out this my self, so I am not a genius, probably more a copy cat :D

Why the manufacturers not do this is because of production costs is always kept to a minimum. It is simpler and cheaper to make the flange in one piece, and is is good enough for the original application. On a well built engine you usually only have one guiding pin and the other holes in the manifold are a little bigger to facilitate heat expansion. When raising the power and stress on the engine it is a good idea to do this modification.

On one manifold I cut up like this, there was so much internal tension that the saw got stuck, the two "half" holes did not match up after the flange was separated!!! -That is not good!

The best would be to make a new manifold with carefully calculated tubes and collector. Most after market performance manifolds has separate flanges for each cylinder. But I know that these manifolds are good enough although far from optimal and they are very cheap! :)

The bolts will hold the manifold in place, U-shaped or round holes but the expansion can go "side ways" easier.

An other problem is that the heat expansion makes the flange thicker, which put enormous pressure on the bolts, there is a cheap fix for this also. I can get back to that if someone is interested.

I did not want to come off looking unpleasant, this is not my major language so sometimes it is hard to express details and "read between the lines"

Austarion

Swedish Starion 16V

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