Hey guys, want to put my subbie in but need to run thick wire for the amps. Where bouts u guys running ur power cabling from the battery? (in front of car)
Also, i want to put 6.5" splits in doors. Anywhere in particular i should cut? im thinking down the very bottom near the front...
Speakers n subs
well, i just installed my 6.5" splits (the woofer anyway) and what a bitch that was! The glands (rubber seals where the wires pass thru the doors) on the car chassis, not the door, has TWO glands about 3" apart. I wouldve had to pull the whole dash apart, instead i just passed it sorta thru the plastic 'seal' on the side.
Now for the subbie power cable...
Now for the subbie power cable...
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SpidersWeb
- postwhore!
- Posts: 1984
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- Location: Wellington, NZ
If you pull out the grommets and push the wires inside the car, you'll find they can be just pulled through. You don't need to rip out the dashboard. I've done about 5 car audio installs on Starions, so I know :)
Sub cable -
From the battery, run it past the ignitor and around the back of the engine bay and over to where the steering is. There is a grommet, make a hole in it, and squeeze the wire through. Once its through keep pushing, put heaps of it in. Then go deep sea diving by the drivers side pedals. You do NOT need to pull out the dashboard, just get your hand up it, you'll find the dangling wire soon enough, then you can run it either down the centre of the car or down the drivers side.
If you have trouble getting the wire through, I suggest doing it first with a smaller wire, once thats in, you use it like a tow rope. Using insulation tape make a nice smooth join of the two wires, and then pull the little one through, the larger wire just follows through.
Remember not to run your RCA signal cables and power line next to each other. I normally run the RCA down the centre from the headunit, and the power down the right side of the car.
If you are using the sides of the cars, be very careful unclipping the plastic trims, they really like their clip mounts and generally break the first time they come off if you're not careful - so be gentle, or they'll fall off randomly and make you swear.
Undo the two big bolts holding in the rear seat, one on each side, down by where the poor bastards who sit in the back would squeeze their feet. Lift the seat a little and get your cable through, make sure its covered by carpet or plastic so it doesn't stick out like a baboon butt.
Then bolt the back seat back up, and viola, 13.8V in your boot ready for action. Also remember that 'off-the-shelf' sub boxes normally dont fit Starions. I had to make my own, then got bored of the idea, and never used it. Still trying to work out what I'm going to do with a 12 inch Pioneer now.
Dont forget to fuse your power cable, and remember the remote and RCA lines from your headunit too :)
Sub cable -
From the battery, run it past the ignitor and around the back of the engine bay and over to where the steering is. There is a grommet, make a hole in it, and squeeze the wire through. Once its through keep pushing, put heaps of it in. Then go deep sea diving by the drivers side pedals. You do NOT need to pull out the dashboard, just get your hand up it, you'll find the dangling wire soon enough, then you can run it either down the centre of the car or down the drivers side.
If you have trouble getting the wire through, I suggest doing it first with a smaller wire, once thats in, you use it like a tow rope. Using insulation tape make a nice smooth join of the two wires, and then pull the little one through, the larger wire just follows through.
Remember not to run your RCA signal cables and power line next to each other. I normally run the RCA down the centre from the headunit, and the power down the right side of the car.
If you are using the sides of the cars, be very careful unclipping the plastic trims, they really like their clip mounts and generally break the first time they come off if you're not careful - so be gentle, or they'll fall off randomly and make you swear.
Undo the two big bolts holding in the rear seat, one on each side, down by where the poor bastards who sit in the back would squeeze their feet. Lift the seat a little and get your cable through, make sure its covered by carpet or plastic so it doesn't stick out like a baboon butt.
Then bolt the back seat back up, and viola, 13.8V in your boot ready for action. Also remember that 'off-the-shelf' sub boxes normally dont fit Starions. I had to make my own, then got bored of the idea, and never used it. Still trying to work out what I'm going to do with a 12 inch Pioneer now.
Dont forget to fuse your power cable, and remember the remote and RCA lines from your headunit too :)
1997 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV 4G63BT
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
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SpidersWeb
- postwhore!
- Posts: 1984
- Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2004 2:29 am
- Location: Wellington, NZ
Its 200 RMS, single coil, but I'm in NZ, it wouldn't be worth the postage. You should be able to get one over there cheap enough, I think I paid about NZ180 for this one?? They're just my favourite cheap sub. Sony etc don't cut it, but these Pioneers go great for the price.
I do miss my Rockford Fosgate's though :(
Dont get dual coil unless you are getting a high end D-Class amp which is 1 ohm stable. Get single coil, the only difference is the impedance, they dont go louder or perform better, they just have the coil split in the middle.
Unless you have a 1 ohm stable amp, having 2 4ohm circuits is a pain in the arse (either 4 ohms per channel, or an effective 1 ohm bridged). I normally use a 4 ohm single, on a bridged 2 channel amp (effective 2 ohm in bridged mode). Most 2 or 4 channel amps are 2 ohms stable, but at 1 ohm they melt.
Without a D-Class 1 ohm stable amp - running a single coil bridged will be louder than a dual coil having one channel per coil because it has more power. e.g. look at amp ratings, 200W RMS x 1 or 80W RMS x 2 - I'd rather 200 than 80+80 for example :) Although the THD will be lower, unless you're entering a sound quality competition, you'll never notice.
I do miss my Rockford Fosgate's though :(
Dont get dual coil unless you are getting a high end D-Class amp which is 1 ohm stable. Get single coil, the only difference is the impedance, they dont go louder or perform better, they just have the coil split in the middle.
Unless you have a 1 ohm stable amp, having 2 4ohm circuits is a pain in the arse (either 4 ohms per channel, or an effective 1 ohm bridged). I normally use a 4 ohm single, on a bridged 2 channel amp (effective 2 ohm in bridged mode). Most 2 or 4 channel amps are 2 ohms stable, but at 1 ohm they melt.
Without a D-Class 1 ohm stable amp - running a single coil bridged will be louder than a dual coil having one channel per coil because it has more power. e.g. look at amp ratings, 200W RMS x 1 or 80W RMS x 2 - I'd rather 200 than 80+80 for example :) Although the THD will be lower, unless you're entering a sound quality competition, you'll never notice.
1997 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV 4G63BT
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
I got this wicked amp from jaycar, its 200W RMS x 2 or 350W RMS x 1.
I have a 10" 250W RMS sub atm, but its startin to play up, like it sounds like its distortin sorta. once its in the box though its fine but still, it shouldnt distort out of the box. And no, i dont crank it up full and complain of distortion.
My 10" atm is dual voice coil and is rigged in 4 ohms.
I have a 10" 250W RMS sub atm, but its startin to play up, like it sounds like its distortin sorta. once its in the box though its fine but still, it shouldnt distort out of the box. And no, i dont crank it up full and complain of distortion.
My 10" atm is dual voice coil and is rigged in 4 ohms.
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SpidersWeb
- postwhore!
- Posts: 1984
- Joined: Wed Jan 28, 2004 2:29 am
- Location: Wellington, NZ
If it sounds good in the box, then all good :)
I've heard good things about those Jaycar amps, good value for money. Unusual to see an amp that puts out less bridged! So dual coil for you is definately the go.
I've heard good things about those Jaycar amps, good value for money. Unusual to see an amp that puts out less bridged! So dual coil for you is definately the go.
1997 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IV 4G63BT
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
1996 Nissan Maxima VQ30DE (for sale, suit someone who likes the feel of boats when driving)
I wouldn't waste my time nor energy on a Sub for the Starion! It would probably sound shithouse with the lack of a boot anyway! Get a decent amp and a good set of speakers and you'll be fine! I am currently running an amp with 3 way 180w Kenwood speakers in the stock locations, and they sound great! I bought a nice set of Kenwood 4way 400w 6x9's for the parcel shelf, but I'm just too lazy at the moment to ever reinforce the bastard!!! Tested them in a mates Falcon, fark they sound awesome, some amount of bass...
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digitalsko
- I've been here before
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Glen GSR III
- guess its me thats broke
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stereos
Ive got a mate who works for Autobarn whose able to do me some great prices, long story short ive ended up with a stupidly big system.
2x pioneer 12" dual voice coil spl subs
2x pioneer 10" entry level subs
1x set of kenwood 7x10s (better value and structure than most 6x9s) mainly for rear fill
2x rockford fosgate 6.5"/tweeter combos (top of the range)
1x kenwood 4" (gonna get capped off as tweets)
1x 4"/tweet combos
7" screen, dvd stacker, 12 cd stacker
2x Rockford 2ohm stable 4ch.
2x 1ohm stable clarion mono blocks
Lotsa gear, but it'll all fit
Fucken cars gonna weigh an extra ton
2x pioneer 12" dual voice coil spl subs
2x pioneer 10" entry level subs
1x set of kenwood 7x10s (better value and structure than most 6x9s) mainly for rear fill
2x rockford fosgate 6.5"/tweeter combos (top of the range)
1x kenwood 4" (gonna get capped off as tweets)
1x 4"/tweet combos
7" screen, dvd stacker, 12 cd stacker
2x Rockford 2ohm stable 4ch.
2x 1ohm stable clarion mono blocks
Lotsa gear, but it'll all fit
Fucken cars gonna weigh an extra ton
82 GSR III starion (respray nearly complete!)
83 JA Starion...Daily Driver
01 KTM 520 trail bike (reason the staz isnt finished yet)
83 JA Starion...Daily Driver
01 KTM 520 trail bike (reason the staz isnt finished yet)
[quote="dims"]ah fuk, now that u mention it, i think its 150w rms x 2, and 350 w rms x 1...
bloody good amp, my mate managed to get it wholesale plus tax, whole thing cost me like 190AU or so :D[/quote
Its what the amp can load down to i have a amp yjat is 2x 25 watts its worth $1200 actually i have 2 of them out of one amp with 2 10 inch subs i acheived 142db
bloody good amp, my mate managed to get it wholesale plus tax, whole thing cost me like 190AU or so :D[/quote
Its what the amp can load down to i have a amp yjat is 2x 25 watts its worth $1200 actually i have 2 of them out of one amp with 2 10 inch subs i acheived 142db
i bet to differ i won the Australian title 0-300 watts my sterio would retail for about $25,000chunkhead wrote:I wouldn't waste my time nor energy on a Sub for the Starion! It would probably sound shithouse with the lack of a boot anyway! Get a decent amp and a good set of speakers and you'll be fine! I am currently running an amp with 3 way 180w Kenwood speakers in the stock locations, and they sound great! I bought a nice set of Kenwood 4way 400w 6x9's for the parcel shelf, but I'm just too lazy at the moment to ever reinforce the bastard!!! Tested them in a mates Falcon, fark they sound awesome, some amount of bass...
A starion ago, had a pair of rockford fosgates in it at some stage from the previous owner, good way to loosen your tail lights.
I'm happy with a pair of 6.5" coaxials off the head unit and 6x9's off 100rms x 2 amp.
Friend of myne has a suzuki swift, he used to work for jay car and bought a pair of 12" subs/amps/6x9's and everything else to top it off, for a cheap sound system it goes very very well. Good for taking the piss :D
I'm happy with a pair of 6.5" coaxials off the head unit and 6x9's off 100rms x 2 amp.
Friend of myne has a suzuki swift, he used to work for jay car and bought a pair of 12" subs/amps/6x9's and everything else to top it off, for a cheap sound system it goes very very well. Good for taking the piss :D
Watch your speed - It's virtually impossible to pick it out of the carpet if it gets blown off the table.
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