How To Remove Rust Like A Professional

oped · Post by **oped** » Sun Jul 08, 2007 4:12 pm

Hey guys, Im about to start prepping my car to give it a Brightside paint job as my car barely has any of its taxi yellow paint left.

I have done plenty of research on the matter from moparts forums, to hondasociety to yachtpaint.com and i have made the choice that I am going to do it all right from the start and make it look as good as i possibly can as I have shitloads of spare time on my hands.

And everyone knows a good paint job starts with the prepping.
At the moment Im trying to locate all the rust and get rid of that and bog up any holes left...

I have always done it using the logic method of, grinding the rust out, 'rust kill' the area, bog it, sand it, then prime it...

Im sure there would be something im doing wrong or a way to improve it.

How do the professionals do it?

Any tips guys,

Thanks

MrBishi · Post by **MrBishi** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 7:06 am

Bog will not last. You need to mig weld metal in.
No shortcuts.

Buy the latest issue of hot-rod magazine. They detail the hand painted brightside process on an old falcon. The pros & cons are listed.

igottasicjb · Post by **igottasicjb** » Fri Jul 20, 2007 1:35 am

mr bishi is right, bog won't last.
you will need to remove all traces of rust by either sand blasting/cutting away the damaged area. the use either a TIG or MIG welder to weld in new patchs of steel, which may need alot of shaping depending were they are going. Then use a flapper or scotchbright wheels to lynish the welds back.

i stongly suggest you use a product called POR-15.
this is the toughest paint in the world and will stop the metal from ever rusting again. The paint is so good that if its applied correctly there is not a single chemical in the world that can get it off, paint stripper, brake fluid, MEK do nothing to this stuff. you can hit if with a hammer and it won't chip of flake it just scuffs. It can be brush painted and it gells out to a mirror finish, and can be top coated in whatever paint you want if you use the POR tie coat primer over it whilst its still tacky.

its 75-90 bucks a litre from good paint and pannel shops.

Post by **Alspos** » Fri Jul 20, 2007 8:16 am

http://www.autobody101.com

oped · Post by **oped** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 12:25 pm

Thanks Mrbishi, I went and got that issue of hot rod... Its not bad, they go through it in a bit of depth but they use rustoleum in that one, but im sure its the exact same process.

Thanks for the tips igottasicjb, the problem is i dont have or know how to mig weld and im afraid a panel beater will want heaps.
And this POR-15 paint, sounds awesome... strong enough to hit it with a hammer, and comes up to a mirror finish. Is it suitable to paint a whole car with it?

Alspos, that site is perfect.. Great resource for my quest. Thanks man

MrBishi · Post by **MrBishi** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 1:16 pm

oped wrote:... the problem is i dont have or know how to mig weld and im afraid a panel beater will want heaps.
And this POR-15 paint, sounds awesome... strong enough to hit it with a hammer, and comes up to a mirror finish. Is it suitable to paint a whole car with it?

Welcome to the reality of restoring a car. Body work is expensive to do properly and a quick 'cheap' fix is never satisfactory.

You wouldn't paint a complete car in POR-15:
a) its not cheap
b) while is it glossy its would look very average on large flat panels.

My 2c - work hard, save your money and get a professional paint job done.

kit · Post by **kit** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 5:41 pm

kit · Post by **kit** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 5:44 pm

MrBishi wrote: My 2c - work hard, save your money and get a professional paint job done.

Thats what i did but without the hard work bit rofl

redzone · Post by **redzone** » Sat Jul 21, 2007 6:36 pm

MrBishi wrote: My 2c - work hard, save your money and get a professional paint job done.

+1

OLD FART · Post by **OLD FART** » Sun Jul 22, 2007 6:45 am

kit wrote:
MrBishi wrote: My 2c - work hard, save your money and get a professional paint job done.

Thats what i did but without the hard work bit rofl

Gary you are always cashed up with $$$$$$$$$burning holes in your pockets and can afford to have a pro do all your work

the rest of us aren't quite so lucky :(

PS yes I know the harder you work the luckier you get

Chris 83JA · Post by **Chris 83JA** » Sun Jul 22, 2007 1:28 pm

Not sure how the professionals do it, but a mate and i did this to the ol' paddock bomb a while back, and after 3 years of sitting out in the weather, the rust hasn't come back (there were huge rust holes in the roof and all over!)
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/621471/2

igottasicjb · Post by **igottasicjb** » Fri Jul 27, 2007 12:55 am

the problem with painting por-15 over large panels is its a pain to spray the stuff because any overspray cannot be cleaned up with solvent once it is dry, it must be sanded back, and 2nd you need to sand back any primer before you start adding top coats and the stuff dries so hard you will be forever sanding.

however for under body and wheel arches supension parts etc.. you can beat the stuff,

note if you want to paint the under body, POR-15 only adheres well to bare metal which means you have to remove all of the factory spray on stone gaurd.

this can only be done using a wire wheel and a grinder.

i'm doing this atm and trust me its not fun

Austarion

How To Remove Rust Like A Professional

How To Remove Rust Like A Professional

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