Austarion

As the title says - needed by my engine builder as the old one has a badly scored bearing surface.

Is there a particular reason you still want to keep it? Remember the shaft spins a twice engine speed EG.. your doing 4000RPM on tach... Balanve shaft is doing 8000RPM!

My advise is to delete it ! On every engine I do they are deleted, its a simple job & improves oil supply & pressure. Your engine will respond quicker & you won't notice they are gone. I am surprised your engine builder didn't suggest it, who is doing it? if you really need one I have a few... :beer

Yeah buy a eliminator kit and be done with it, it only makes the engine run smoother with them in and doesn't have any effect on the rotating assembly.

Cheers Shaun

Agree with the above...there's no need for it.

DKshauno wrote:Yeah buy a eliminator kit and be done with it, it only makes the engine run smoother with them in and doesn't have any effect on the rotating assembly.

Cheers Shaun

only if you want to waste $40 on it.. I do it with the old shaft & bearing. Costs nothing. Perhaps I should do a Video on it & get ALSPOS to pin it in technical section

Thanks for the replies, yes my engine builder is removing the RHS shaft completely as you guys suggested, and its associated belt & pulleys, but on the LHS, he gets the counterweights machined off the shaft just leaving a long thin shaft to support the oil pump gear. Unfortunately, my shaft is quite badly scored around the bearing face.
If I get 2 offers. I will grab both, but only need 1 for now.
Rumours suggest that there is no real gain in horse-power, but small gain in torque. Main advantage is less moving parts to fail.
panda

panda wrote:Thanks for the replies, yes my engine builder is removing the RHS shaft completely as you guys suggested, and its associated belt & pulleys, but on the LHS, he gets the counterweights machined off the shaft just leaving a long thin shaft to support the oil pump gear. Unfortunately, my shaft is quite badly scored around the bearing face.
If I get 2 offers. I will grab both, but only need 1 for now.
Rumours suggest that there is no real gain in horse-power, but small gain in torque. Main advantage is less moving parts to fail.
panda

Tell your engine man to cut shaft 25mm after it exits the oil pump, tap it M8x1.25mm (the hole is correct size after he cuts it) & plug it with a bolt. problem fixed. he doesn't need to remove the bearing on this shaft thats in the mid section of the block. The higher shaft bearing needs to be removed then turned to cover oil hole & reinstalled. if he is not sure what to do call me & I will have a chat with him.

Heres what the lower counter-balance shaft looks like when finished.



Still needing a couple more shafts if anyone has any laying around.

PM me your address, & $40 & I will send a set to you.... :beer

PM sent

I am sure your engine builder has checked but I have found when machined like that the bend & the bearing area on the shaft can jam/rub/seize in the bearing, please make sure the bearing area is running true across the surface. :beer

OK, thanks for the tip, I will pass it on to him, but I have every faith in his ability to get it right.

Mitsy actually sell a stub shaft for this purpose, google MD098626.

After reading the very interesting article, am I correct in thinking the part you mentioned is out of the Mirage motor ?

To be honest, I'm not sure where it originally comes from, I thought the 4g-powered mirages still had balance shafts? No first hand experience on them though.