WTB 2.4 crank (4g64?)

Got something to sell? Looking for a rare Starion part? Got something bust that needs replacing? then this is your place!
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

yep, i figured that would be the visible difference.. i'm wondering what the difference in performance is.. which is stronger, and if anyone knows the engineering side of things, why?
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WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
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fugazi
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Post by fugazi »

There are pros n cons of everything right?
Alu-rods?
Is this OT??? rofl
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Entaran
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Post by Entaran »

H beam rods are generally recognised to perform better in lower RPM and/or daily driven vehicles.

I beam rods are SERIOUSLY superior in high intertia situations (motors revving to the moon and beyond).

Alu rods stretch over time and should only be used where you budget for new engines frequently. Such as racing or if you're crazy and want to replace your rods every 10-15,000 kms.

Groden Alu rods are about as good as they get, but even they will stretch eventually. Unfortunately it's simply a metallurgical fact of the alloy used to create them. You should look at their sigma value some day :)
OLD FART
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Post by OLD FART »

IMHO always use the best components that you can afford especially if you intend flogging it BUT having said that Cheater uses Eagle H beams in his IPRA racer with no problems
I have Eagles in my stroker BUT if money was no worries I would use Pauter titanium rods
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
Entaran
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Post by Entaran »

I have Scat rods, I didn't see the point in putting rods that are rated to 1500hp in an engine that will probably never make more than 400hp.
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greenstaz82
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Post by greenstaz82 »

Entaran wrote:I would highly suggest a forged crank rather than a reco'ed 2ndhand unit.

BUT $$$.

Also, is your block ok after two dead pistons? Have you had it xrayed? Did it damage the bores very much?

And use H beams, not I beams. I beams are a massive waste of money in a 4 cyl. Unless you plan to rev to the moon but you've stroked it, so that limits your revs to about 7300-7500 as well.

Twincam head I'm assuming. Running 272's or 280's in cams?
ive seen those forged cranks for sale but yes money is a problem u have to stop somewhere , yes the block needs to be bored so its going 40thou over (86mm) , for rods i can get them in a piston and rod package cheap from the states but ill see what other h beam combinations they have . im running 264's with a ported head . anyone know if u get big gains by upgrading valves ?
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iXNAY
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Post by iXNAY »

on a twincam head i think going oversized valves is a waste as they heads flow plenty of air as it is with stock valves
SR20 powered starion what have I done..... :P
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Post by redzone »

nah go 1mm oversize exhaust valves ;)
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OLD FART
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Post by OLD FART »

Buschur raceing only reccomend .5 mm os valves and they have some very fast evos
I've had mine since 03 07 92
85 JB 2323cc DOHC 4G63
THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
GROWING OLD IS MANDATORY GROWING UP IS OPTIONAL
Entaran
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Post by Entaran »

CFM wise you only get a 20 CFM (or 5.8%) increase from 1mm exhaust valves. It's next to nothing and basically not worth the cash unless you're aiming for the moon. If you're building a motor to make more than 600hp, then yes, under 600hp don't bother.
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