Austarion

Still have some real timing issues, but it started for a few seconds. I gotta figure out this trigger setup, its not right, im at 30btdc or something after it starts, but 10btdc while cranking.

:beer

A1 keep us all posted, nice to see people doing something different


bigmoz :pimp

nice one atleast you got it to kick over :D

nice work mate good choice of motor :drool:

lol. yeah it isnt real impressive, but hell, I've had the engine over 6 months, and it hasnt done a damn thing, so im pretty excited. Figuring out the timing for the trigger setup is a headache though.

airbats801 wrote:Still have some real timing issues, but it started for a few seconds. I gotta figure out this trigger setup, its not right, im at 30btdc or something after it starts, but 10btdc while cranking.

I'm not sure what setup you're running ignition wise, but if it were a distributor i'd say thats pretty normal? The vacum advance wont get a decent clear signal until the engine is running, so it wont be as retarded while just cranking on the starter

Ofcourse, if your running a fancy fandangled aftermarket computer then just ignore the above :)

In other news: Fucking awesome shit, i wanna see some wheelies! ;).

ProZac wrote:

airbats801 wrote:Still have some real timing issues, but it started for a few seconds. I gotta figure out this trigger setup, its not right, im at 30btdc or something after it starts, but 10btdc while cranking.

Ofcourse, if your running a fancy fandangled aftermarket computer

Wait, I’ll put on my Sherlock hat………. Right, now, how is it possible for a hat to smell this bad?

One of your pics shows a (custom?) pulley on the front with a dizzy thing behind it, under the TB, wait.. no, that doesn’t move in the vid. I guess there coil packs in the top then. Assuming you have the same coils as the ppl who gave you the maps, and the (Haltech?) ECU has not been fitted with a dwell card (like std SR-20’s need?) or has been fitted with a dwell card if needed. I assume the CAS has no mechanical weights or Mech advance feature, have never heard of one that does. How does the ECU sense when to advance the ign? Shurly this can not be left up to the MAP/TPS sensors alone can it? It must have a signal from the CAS for the dash mounted TACH, does that work, does the Haltech show cranking RPM? I had a problem similar once, the ECU received a pulse for every cylinder, but the pin in the CAS plug for the overall RPM had popped out a little and the engine constantly hunted from 500 to 2000 RPM. But after typing all that I watched the vid again….. whats the problem? Cranking timing sounded fine, starter was not under any major load, there are wires all over the TB that would get caught in the throttle cable (looking from vid) so I assume that was with the shut throttle. The engine hasn’t started in god knows how long and it fired up then started to hunt for and idle / ignition timing or a signal from its dear departed 02 sensor (I cant see one) then the vid stops. Quit been a girl and do a burn out. That is the manufactures suggested procedure for reviving a stale engine. True, its in the service manual. Under ‘LET IT DEVELOP’ or ‘WELCOME TO PLANET EARTH, MEET MR REDLINE’, I cant remember.

Also, if using someone else’s maps from a running car the signal from there MAP sensor (I assume the same type as yours) is related to the volume of your manifold (duhh) Vs pressure drop across it and the resulting total pressure / vacuume present. I guess. So your map sensor wants to be in the same place as there’s, and will always give a different signal until you slow your intake velocity down…. Say, an intercooler, a turbo or 2, about 3 feet of pipe with bends and chuck a couple of air filters in there for flavour. If you really want to go all out some exhaust back pressure for those pesky rebirth 1st time starts never hurts and even an 02 sensor just for the hell of it. OR, you could look in the trouble shooting part of the manual under ‘REAR WHEELS WONT SPIN, ECU CODE –BOOB-‘ :D

still cant sleep, still bored.

thinking about the way it fired up, then slowly dropped its idle down to a cool lumpy sound. kinda like the injector spray turning into and injector drip? I went to your forum to have a look but some cute looking Asian girl gave me the finger and a message saying 'airbats801 is currently pimped out until further notice' came up. is that an aftermarket fuel pump in there? kinda looks like the std fuel reg. is the pumps power or the power to the ECU supplied by the factory wiring? my jap widebody will shut the pump and ignition down after a few seconds if the AFM gives it the silent treatment. the manual covers this under 'HOW TO HEEL-TOE' and 'SIDE STEPPING THE CLUTCH'

rofl

timing runs off the crank trigger and one of the cam sensors. The engine is coil over plug, and the o2 is actually hooked up ;). Its running off an e11v2, everything is sequtnial sexiness, but lets get past that.

I'm still trying to find the correct tooth offset for getting my timing corrected. I've managed to put it at 10btdc cranking, but then it flys to about 35btdc like that video, or 30 atdc.

I just read a timing deal on toymods with someone having the same issue. Seems like im not suppose to go above 70 degrees btdc firing angle on any toothset, otherwise I wont get full advance, so I still have a lot of screwing around to do. As for why it dies, I really dont know, but my injectors just dropped off for a second, which bugs me.

The map is 2jz base map, since I couldnt find a 1jz base map. They are pretty close though.

As for timing, its done off a 1024 point base ignition map, plus a bunch of correctional maps.

airbats801 wrote:rofl timing runs off the crank trigger and one of the cam sensors.

don’t these have to be timed up? I have never worked on one of these engines but I remember something somewhere on some engine with the crank signal supplying the signal for the ignition pulses and one on the cam for determining the engine position while cranking. When the engine cranks over it will ignore the crank sensor until it receives a pulse from the cam then it knows the engine just reached the beginning (or the end?) of the firing order and the next pulse must be Cylinder No#1 on its compression stroke. if that makes any sense. when it started did you try putting the TPS to WOT with the car in gear and the brakes on? I hear that works really well, sorts all the problems out on any ECU running any motor.

I dont know, its a 12 tooth crank wheel, roates twice per cam rotation so 24tooth basically. the timing belt is on, so its just a matter of knowing what god damn settings im suppose to use. It shouldnt be brain surgery to do this, but no one seems to have the correct settings published.

The car wont even take any throttle, and it wont stay running, and there is no drive shaft.

Someone do me a favor, go over to haltech and just knock them on the side of the head for not having a 1jz basemap.

There is a Haltech Support forum that you could ask on or try the Haltech website. Go to dealers/Australia/New South wales and find Hitman. he often has some maps available. He tuned Jason's widebody here and is very well regarded. Could point you in the right direction

Cheers
Greg

Great to see something different.

It must be firing off the incorrect mark in the trigger. The cranking signal should be stable. The computer may be conifgured incorrectly

Ash