Austarion

So I'm ready to dyno the Staz at loooooooong last :D

But should I replace the exhaust first? The exhaust on the car looks and sounds ok. But it is around the standard factory size!

It's a Rally car, so ground clearance is important. But drive-ability is more important. I want a smooth power curve!

I've had 3 inch Mandrel bent exhausts before, and they are great. But this car is a dirt rally car and I'm curious how it will go?
I should add that it has 4.6 LSD, L300 MPI with a Haltec computer LT10s or something.

Any ideas?..............................

Cheers Jason

PS I also need something in the way of struts / coilovers!

The bigger the better!!!
Better spool and less backpressure...
Get the biggest you can fit in there!!! (At least 3")
And YES, before you get it on the dyno an/or re-map it!!!

What class are u in?

I have a 3 inch system here I could shop down mate cheap cheap

Another question!
Should I put a blow off valve on my staz? Would this affect the tune?

I have one that I got years ago, but never put it on a car!

All these things I should of done before now

Cheers Jason

flav wrote:What class are u in?

Flav our club runs on engine size, but now we have modern and Classic rules.

Turbo's were not allowed in the past but times change. You could run a turbo car in Class U. That is Unrestricted But if you win outright, it didn't count and 1st place would go to the next eligible car!!!

Have a look at our friendly Alternative to cams :D

www.amsag.com.au

I think they have a 2WD Turbo class now, but I will find out soon enough!!
Cheers Jason

starionc wrote:Another question!
Should I put a blow off valve on my staz? Would this affect the tune ??

Cheers Jason

No adverse affects on a MAP sensored car BUT on an air flow metered car it will overfuel when you accelerate after the BOV has vented to atmosphere due to the EMS supplying fuel required as per the volume of air passed thru AFM but as the BOV ( fitted after the AFM) has vented this measured air there will be a lesser volume of air to mix with fuel so it will stumble/miss a bit as it will be overfueled when you hit the go pedal.
Hope this all makes sense :)

Fit a BOV, but plumb it back to the turbo intake, after the AFM. Best of all worlds, and muchly reduced silly noise.

ProZac wrote:Fit a BOV, but plumb it back to the turbo intake, after the AFM. Best of all worlds, and muchly reduced silly noise.

Ah come on, whats wrong with a bit of silly noise :P I've got EVO and WRX's making all the noise, so I need to sound like them...... NOT


As for the AFM. I dont have one! My car as far as I know runs a MAP??
The dyno guy has recommended that I get a O2 sensor for the exhaust. It will save on dyno time and also help the car lean out or richer in high and low altitude. Thoughts?? It's $400 just for that? Is that about right?

Cheers Jason

Could you put the AFM in after the turbo, cooler and BOV? That would negate any effect a bov, pressure losses etc would have on the system wouldn't it?

I should have read the first post a little closer... I see he's running an aftermarket ECU, so presumably has done away the the air flow sensor. In that case, run the BOV however you like, plumbed back or not, shouldn't be any ill effects :).

You could be really cool and hook up a duck call to it:


;).

ProZac wrote:
You could be really cool and hook up a duck call to it:


;).

rofl

Al, I would theorize that the afm would not work after the turbo without extensive recalibration - most AFMs these days are hot wire (even though apparently the karman vortex ones used in old mitsus such as the starion is meant to be a better design..?), and so there are temperature variation measurements involved, and as you know the air temp after a turbo can vary a fair bit based on a multitude of factors.

Thrash the effect I described earlier is what happened when I still had the K/Vortex in place on the single cam.There was no overfueling missing in normal driving and it only happened if/when I was getting up it at the track at say 4000rpms+ if my memory serves me correctly.

Ok, I'm fairly sure I can do without the Duck call BOV :P

With the fuel, do any of you guys use 95 octain? I'm going to use 98 to tune the car, but will it run badly on 95?
Or should I tune it on 95?

I ask as some times you cant get 98 ie at a rally in some small town.

Any thoughts?

Cheers Jason

If it was me I would tune for 98 but have a good octane booster with the car( or with the service crew ) in case only 95 was available then dose that with booster to bring it up to 98
Nulon Pro strength will bring 95 up to 98.1 I have used that in the past and currently use Lucas racing formula octane booster.
PS beware of a lot of OB's that claim to increase the octane rating by say 7 points what that really means 0.7 of 1 full point so 95.0 becomes 95.7 RON