Austarion

Hi Everyone,

Im new to the forms and have a JA starion running a standard motor 2.0lt motor, i have recently been running in to some oil pressure problems with the motor as the gauge when started and idle will almost max out.

So far to try and counter this is have changed the Oil to penrite HPR10(with a fresh filter) and changed the oil presser sensor that looked like it was completely ruined.

With the new sensor installed the oil pressure looks like it might be reading just slightly lower than beforehand sitting just underneath the max of the gauge (again on idle).

Replacement part details:
Brand:Fuelmiser
Part no.CPS27
Same part but another brand: http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/champion ... cps27.html

Car work histroy: unknown as im a fairly new owner.

first question i guess i have is, has the person at the store sold me the correct sensor and if so besides a shot gauge what else could be coursing this, at the levels the last sensor was reading at i would have been pretty convinced the motor would have blown the head by now.
Only other thing i could think of that would be making the oil pressure sit at current levels is if some one has changed the gear on the oil pump and used the wrong sized cog.

Anyone help that anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated,

Cheers

welcome !

first -was it always doing it?
or did it just happen all at once?

does it pop out the dip stick?

Hi Mr.Bender!

thanks for the welcome.

Yeah its always done it since ive had it, (traveled maybe 1000km in it so far more than enough to destroy the motor at the levels it reads), and nope the dipstick is fine thats what also lead me to believe that it might have been a sensor or the dipstick has the strongest hold in the world lol.
Every now and then when i have been driving the gauge will display a "normal" reading for maybe 10-15min and then go back to high readings this happened when on the highway holding 100kmph at all times on flat areas so no real reason for the pressure to spike.

other known electrical issues at this point is a bad MAP and maybe a bad airflow sensor other than that everything else is pretty solid.

Oil looked pretty dirty/blackend when taken out of the car but i checked it closely for anything that looked like it could be coursing blockages and no sign of any thickness or clots in the oil, no traces of metal either. (always a plus lol)

what would be the best way to test the gauge to take it out of the equation?

oh and sorry to the Admins for puting this post in genral instead of technical.

You could try using a aftermarket one.
and that will tell us what its doing! but i cant remember what psi it should be running. just try a search on what psi it should be on ,it was covered before.

Thanks Bender ill have a read, and see what i can dig up, besides a shot gauge any ideas on what might be coursing it? am i right in assuming that if the oil presser was really reading accurate the motor should have imploded by now or are these SOC 4g63's completely indestructible?

mate ive recently had oil pressure problems and it turned out to be a combination of a faulty gauge and sensor. the ONLY way to find out for sure that its not the engine creating too much/too little pressure is to unscrew the sensor from the engine and putting a mechanical gauge in and running the car to opperating temp. Mine was a faulty sensor and ive learnt to never trust the starion factory gauges as they are crap.

I would say about 50% of Oil pressure gauges and/or senders are stuffed!

On my 1988 model, the oil pressure never moves from the bottom. I like my gauges to show what's happening,
so I will try and get it fixed in the next week or so. First, I will see if the sender is stuffed with replacement......
apparently, Scorpion and 2.6 carby Pageros have the same sender!

If not, I will grab a 2nd hand instrument cluster from (US)ebay and try my luck replacing the gauge!

Thanks for the input guys,

really appreciate it, ill see if i can get it tested this week just to be on the safe side but after hearing that its a pretty common problem you have managed to put my mind at ease a bit lol.

After i get it tested if it turns out to be nothing ill most likely chase down a after market gauge.

again thanks for the input and the quick replys, ill keep you posted on how i go.

If you do use an aftermarket mechanical gauge to test the actual oil pressure, please do it the right way and use some braided line and decent fittings with it. It'll be a bit more expensive than using a crappy rubber/plasticy tube, but think about the cost and consequences if that goes wrong. If you kink the tube somewhere, it may not give you an accurate reading, ruining the whole exercise. A far worse problem is if the tube fractures or comes off the gauge. Enjoy the scolding hot oil spewing onto your face or lap.

thrash wrote:If you do use an aftermarket mechanical gauge to test the actual oil pressure, please do it the right way and use some braided line and decent fittings with it. It'll be a bit more expensive than using a crappy rubber/plasticy tube, but think about the cost and consequences if that goes wrong. If you kink the tube somewhere, it may not give you an accurate reading, ruining the whole exercise. A far worse problem is if the tube fractures or comes off the gauge. Enjoy the scolding hot oil spewing onto your face or lap.

I run an aftermarket electrical one for that exact reason.
I hate the idea of a mechanical oil gauge in the cabin.

Due to the lack of faith in factory guages, I had Pirtek make up a high pressure hose from the engine block (where the oil sender used to mount) to a tee piece mounted on the fire wall with 2 senders fitted. One for a low pressure lamp, & the other for an electric oil pressure guage. I had several senders fail due to engine vibration, & this mod solved the problem. :) Achieved accurary, reliabilty, duplicated warning, & no chance of hot oil spilling on me. :)

panda

people keep saying to me that electrical gauges are not as accurate as mechanical ones.. which I find kinda hard to believe.. anyone have any experience to back up or disprove this theory?

I would much prefer to have electrical gauges as I don't like the idea of having any engine related fluids near the cabin. For a while now, I've been toying with the idea of purchasing a small LCD touchscreen and trying to program it to display info I want from different sensors. Not a small project by any means, plus I haven't done any programming since I left uni 5 years ago. To top that off, LCD touchscreens are expensive, and I haven't had much spare time for hobbies recently. So right now, that's in the "some day" bin

it could be the oil pressure relief valve stuck closed.

dirtygalant wrote:it could be the oil pressure relief valve stuck closed.

where abouts in the motor would that valve sit? im new to the 4g63 so im still very much learning on how its put together.
if that value was closed would that normally be coursed by carbon build up or clots in the oil?

again thanks to everyone for the replys, at this point im planning on tracking down a after market gauge and testing it the right way, and making sure i use braided lines as suggested, last thing i feel like doing is getting my face melted off and when your playing with Oil at that tempt its no time for buget cuts.

Cheers

Johnny