Austarion

Watch this space for update on our new venture together. I picked up his old JB today to use the engine and LSD in my JA but felt the car was just too good to end up in my rapidly expanding starion junkyard ( anyone need any parts please just ask ) so I spoke to JDSATZ and we decided to build her up as a "budget" track car. We have everything we need to put her on the road so should be a lot of fun. Next purchase is a car trailer to carry it to the track. Anyone have any tips on rollcages ? Full ? half ? what material etc ? Still using the engine and diff in my JA but we have spare everything including good engines.

Looking forward to a bit of fun on the track! New territory for me, so it should be a great way to experience the limits of the staz.

Also, it's great that this car is still being kept alive!! Has a great shell, but needs a major tidy up! Sharing the costs makes it a bit more affordable!!

:beer

good shit, glad its being saved :)

Vulpes wrote:Anyone have any tips on rollcages ? Full ? half ? what material etc ?

the smart move would be to use 350 grade tube and build to CAMS spec
look up
http://www.camsmanual.com.au/pdf/10_gen ... J_Q209.pdf

that might be some help

Is the car going to be registered? If so you might want to check out the NSW RTA rules on the fitting of cages - I think there is a basic rule that says they cannot restrict access to the vehicle. Cages do stiffen the car up and are obviously a safety factor but not something I would necessarily start with.

IMHO - if you are planning a low cost build I would forego the cage and instead spend the money ($1500 approx for a Bonds CAMs Certified cage fitted) on a decent race seat and good quality 3" harness.

For the rest I would add in a good set of Semi slick tyres and a brake upgrade on the front and better pad materials on the rear. For the latter, take a set of standard Starion rear pads to Race Brakes here in Sydney and ask them to get them rebonded with a better compound. Also go braided lines for a firmer pedal and good quality brake fluid.

Add in a stiffer set of springs and new shocks and (maybe) bigger rollbars and I think you would have yourself a nice track day toy for not a real lot of money.

If its not going to be registered strip everything out of the interior and save yourself a couple of hundred kilos and this alone will transform the car.

excellent info thanks wantsom, will take all your advice onboard and do the things you suggested. Appreciate your input.

I can get good quality braided brake lines from USA. Have a look at my group buy threads.

If i were to do a track car id make cooling a big importance.
Nice big radiator + efficient fan
New water pump
Large oil cooler with good airflow
Larger baffled sump
Intercooler to keep intake temps down

Agree with cooling issue - as big a radiator as you can - I even discarded the electric fan and put a centrifugal one. Temp never moves beyond half even with 20lb boost.

Sump, good to have, maybe not so critical - but good quality oil and change every meeting

And intercooler of course

Should add also, Daryl and Mal - you're welcome to come over and suss out my car any time you want for ideas and clues. It could save you some time and money in the long run :beer

In additional to what wantsom has said, you should also remove the backing plates behind the disc.

Interior wise the rear seats dont weigh that much, your biggest gains will be getting rid of the front seats. Also when removing sound deading get some dry ice, it will help alot. In the engine bay get rid of all the aircon gear as it weighs alot.

This car has already had some weight reduction done to it by a previous owner. You better keep that mpi setup for your track car! The only thing you will need is bigger injectors. Looks like we may have a Sydney track squad soon

you guys are making me want to go back and build one of the cheap widebodies I sold my friend.

dont let us stop you LOL

RiceThief wrote:In additional to what wantsom has said, you should also remove the backing plates behind the disc

i thought these actually helped direct air onto the discs?

S0LJAH wrote:

RiceThief wrote:In additional to what wantsom has said, you should also remove the backing plates behind the disc

i thought these actually helped direct air onto the discs?

I think they are called dust shields

S0LJAH wrote:

RiceThief wrote:In additional to what wantsom has said, you should also remove the backing plates behind the disc

i thought these actually helped direct air onto the discs?

If you look at the size of the inlet to the plate its small, the outlet is the same, you will find that having the plate there will hold heat in.