Austarion

Brand new GR2 front and rear struts that are no longer available anywhere :)
Big thanks to Lives4speed off Starquestclub for grabbing them for me :)
Cant wait to get these is since mine are shot :) :)

KYB can supply every part you need to rebuild your struts - still!

groupAralliart wrote:KYB can supply every part you need to rebuild your struts - still!

You mean to convert the rears to inserts? They aren't rebuildable otherwise afaik.
And i lie as ive just found the front inserts still for sale but right rear shocks are gone!!

Lunacy wrote:

groupAralliart wrote:KYB can supply every part you need to rebuild your struts - still!

You mean to convert the rears to inserts? They aren't rebuildable otherwise afaik.
And i lie as ive just found the front inserts still for sale but right rear shocks are gone!!

Rear struts can be rebuilt with inserts by cutting off the tops & treading them for a gland nut .Any good suspension workshop should be able to do it

Threading not treading, but you are right anyway Oldie.

Yep but was quoted $350- $400 a strut to have them rebuilt here, which is more than i paid for all 4 brand new gr2s, so far as im concerned was a far better deal.

if anyone in australia is interested i convert the rear struts to insert type for $200 a pair exchange. and thats to fit early commodore front inserts, of which u can get any level of shock u want, ie cheapo's through to kyb agx, koni reds, yellows, bilsteins etc etc

lunacy those GR2's are a good shock, zaidja83 has a set in his GSR3 here in bris, ride and handling = niiiiiice

Redzone, we've been discussing that very thing. I wonder if you have a pic of a converted rear housing, or tell me about the tapered area at the top of the rear struts. See below.



So far, this is what we know and what has been done.

The rear inserts for 90-94ish Toyota MR2's can work with our cars, the inserts are 1.85" shorter than SQ units. So, adjustable units, like the KYB AGX's, Tokico Illumina, and Koni Reds(or Yellows, not sure which one) can be used.

No big deal for the front. Either make a 1.85" thick spacer(like the front KYB GR2 inserts have welded to the bottoms already), or cut the strut housing down 1.85" which also allows you to lower the car further since the spring perches will also be lower. Good for those with sleeve type coilovers.

For the rears. SHP rear struts use inserts, so the same deal can be done as the fronts by making a spacer or cutting the housings shorter.
The non-SHP rear struts are sealed, and the top of the housing bodies have a taper.

I'm not sure if the taper is shorter than 1.85"? Then there the thickness of the top part of the gland nuts that thread into the housing(after tapping) to consider.

What thread diameter and pitch tap do you use for the housings? And which gland nuts do you use? Something from another car maybe?

Have gr2 shocks myself, they have softer dampening than the stockies I reacon, rides much softer over bumps.

JustPaus_88TSi wrote:Redzone, we've been discussing that very thing. I wonder if you have a pic of a converted rear housing, or tell me about the tapered area at the top of the rear struts. See below.



So far, this is what we know and what has been done.

The rear inserts for 90-94ish Toyota MR2's can work with our cars, the inserts are 1.85" shorter than SQ units. So, adjustable units, like the KYB AGX's, Tokico Illumina, and Koni Reds(or Yellows, not sure which one) can be used.

No big deal for the front. Either make a 1.85" thick spacer(like the front KYB GR2 inserts have welded to the bottoms already), or cut the strut housing down 1.85" which also allows you to lower the car further since the spring perches will also be lower. Good for those with sleeve type coilovers.

For the rears. SHP rear struts use inserts, so the same deal can be done as the fronts by making a spacer or cutting the housings shorter.
The non-SHP rear struts are sealed, and the top of the housing bodies have a taper.

I'm not sure if the taper is shorter than 1.85"? Then there the thickness of the top part of the gland nuts that thread into the housing(after tapping) to consider.

What thread diameter and pitch tap do you use for the housings? And which gland nuts do you use? Something from another car maybe?

I lop off the top of the starion strut below the taper, and i use the (already chopped) top threaded sections of s/h commodore strut bodies (after a bit of lathe work) and weld them to the top of the starion strut. the commodore inserts are practically the same length as the starion shocks.

so no i dont thread the original strut tube, its a bit thin for that i feel, this way makes it a lot more solid. :beer

Ive driven a car with a set of Redzone refurbed rear shocks. Had a good feeling ride to it.

I feel its a good combo for a street car.

:beer

enthuzed wrote:Threading not treading, but you are right anyway Oldie.

Geez Enthused give me a break it's the first spelling mistake I've made .
If you were to correct everyones spelling on this site you would have 3000 ++++ posts to your name .Remember I will be checking all of your posts from now on for spelling errors LOL :beer

He dead ant reed at write...

-Robert