anyone know about megasquirts?

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MitsuMadness
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Post by MitsuMadness »

If you're looking for cheap ECU's, there's even fairly good model Microtech's going for around the $400-$500 mark on eBay every few days at the moment!

If anyone has trouble finding them, I'm happy to buy some and pass them on for the same price. I have a search always running for all types of ECU on eBay.

I wouldn't say Microtech is my preference, I prefer Haltech or Link personally, but yes they are more expensive. I have used Microtechs before and have a one now as well, and am thoroughly happy enough with them, and their after sales support and repairs is great and cheap too. That's why I'd chose one over a Megasquirt any day.

I had a blown ignition output on a Microtech - send to Microtech, for $120 they fix it, and run a full 24 hour test on the whole thing and confirm everything is good and then send it back. Pretty darn good support. They've also helped me over the phone with wiring issues too.

The only reason I looked at doing a Megasquirt myself at one stage was just because I wanted to be able to edit the source code and interface protocol to do whatever I personally wanted. That's the advantage of Megasquirt's, not the cheaper price, but the fact you can customise them, and edit the code, etc.

So I would only recommend getting a Megasquirt if you're into electronics, or microprocessor programming (which is what I do for a job). Then you can troubleshoot or repair it yourself. If you're looking for cheap, I'd definitely say buy a cheap Microtech (again I prefer these over Wolf, but maybe personal preference).

There's my thoughts :)
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Mick
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Post by Mick »

things are cheap for a reason, a cheap ECU will has cheaper parts and components and less QA on the workmanship/amount of labour. You not only risk the outlay of the ECU to start with, you risk the things that are most important... the pistons in your block.
Big names have a good rep for a reason, and other brands are largely unknown for a reason too.
FS: Ford 302ci Windsor. Race prepped block, Clevite bearings, ARP fixings, Hypertectic pistons, nitrided rods, knife edged crank, Gilmer drive, chrome moly rings, Yella Terra stage 3 heads, manly valves, Comp cams 294* solid roller, YT roller rockers, Funnelweb manifold, 2 inch spacer, Proform 830cfm carb, K&N 10" stack, ICE ignition. - 0437900210
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

this kind of does not apply to megasquirt though

megasquirt was never marketed as an "off the shelf" computer to run your car. Sure, resellers are doing so now to make an extra buck, but if you follow the history of Megasquirt, it's sole purpose was to be a learning tool, to teach, learn and experiment with the building of car computers.

So it's a bit like using training wheels on your bicycle. They were made to help you learn, but to be used forever.

Luckily, however, the megasquirt isn't a particularly bad piece of equipment, and has been improved upon, so it CAN actually be used to continually run your car engine.
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
Mick
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Post by Mick »

but everyones talking about them on a budget? why waste your money if its only a learning tool or a stepping stone?
FS: Ford 302ci Windsor. Race prepped block, Clevite bearings, ARP fixings, Hypertectic pistons, nitrided rods, knife edged crank, Gilmer drive, chrome moly rings, Yella Terra stage 3 heads, manly valves, Comp cams 294* solid roller, YT roller rockers, Funnelweb manifold, 2 inch spacer, Proform 830cfm carb, K&N 10" stack, ICE ignition. - 0437900210
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

because tightarses will always be tightarses rofl
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
OLD FART
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Post by OLD FART »

thrash wrote:because tightarses will always be tightarses rofl
I always thought that being a tightarse was the number 1 requirement for acceptance for Austarion membership :oops: :? :) LOL
I've had mine since 03 07 92
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THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS
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Post by Mick »

amen to that
FS: Ford 302ci Windsor. Race prepped block, Clevite bearings, ARP fixings, Hypertectic pistons, nitrided rods, knife edged crank, Gilmer drive, chrome moly rings, Yella Terra stage 3 heads, manly valves, Comp cams 294* solid roller, YT roller rockers, Funnelweb manifold, 2 inch spacer, Proform 830cfm carb, K&N 10" stack, ICE ignition. - 0437900210
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jwebb2876
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Post by jwebb2876 »

Not much point in jumping straight in the deep end, you want all the learning tools/stepping stones you can get. Besides, they're cheap, simple, very versatile and do the job just fine, so why not?
Some folks like doing everything humanly possible themselves, guess an MS wold be perfect for them.
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thrash
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Post by thrash »

jwebb2876 wrote: Some folks like doing everything humanly possible themselves, guess an MS wold be perfect for them.
yeah but in the context of THIS thread, that's not the case - he's lookin for a cheap option and getting someone else to do the work
quest wrote:
WANTSOM wrote:Personally, I find sloppy boxes very unsatisfying. I like them tight and taught to the point that if you dont have to push to get it in then its probably too old and time to get a new one :P
don't try explaining that to her tho..... just leave. lol
enthuzed
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Post by enthuzed »

Mick wrote:things are cheap for a reason, a cheap ECU will has cheaper parts...
Haven't seen him on here for a while :p

What MM said if looking for a cost-effective solution.

Otherwise expect to learn lots and spend more than a good second hand unit to sorting it!!
Reduce fuel costs by 15-20% & cut emissions by 1/3rd...
Increase engine performance & prolong engine life...
How?
Click the website button below & watch the 3 minute video.
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jwebb2876
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Post by jwebb2876 »

thrash wrote:
jwebb2876 wrote: Some folks like doing everything humanly possible themselves, guess an MS wold be perfect for them.
yeah but in the context of THIS thread, that's not the case - he's lookin for a cheap option and getting someone else to do the work
Yeah, fair enough.
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Mick
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Post by Mick »

enthuzed wrote:
Mick wrote:things are cheap for a reason, a cheap ECU will has cheaper parts...
if you've got a gripe mate get it off your chest.
FS: Ford 302ci Windsor. Race prepped block, Clevite bearings, ARP fixings, Hypertectic pistons, nitrided rods, knife edged crank, Gilmer drive, chrome moly rings, Yella Terra stage 3 heads, manly valves, Comp cams 294* solid roller, YT roller rockers, Funnelweb manifold, 2 inch spacer, Proform 830cfm carb, K&N 10" stack, ICE ignition. - 0437900210
enthuzed
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Post by enthuzed »

Keep your knickers on Mick, it's not about you. It's a play on words...

There's a gent from Melbourne called cheater parts, sometimes running an
NA sigma, other times a turbo one (same car).
He's a fabricator and he hasn't been seen on here for ages.
He was a wealth of info on car mods, particularly for racing.
Anyone know what happened to him??
Reduce fuel costs by 15-20% & cut emissions by 1/3rd...
Increase engine performance & prolong engine life...
How?
Click the website button below & watch the 3 minute video.
Mick
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Post by Mick »

sounded pretty specific mate. play on which words? i went to school too...
FS: Ford 302ci Windsor. Race prepped block, Clevite bearings, ARP fixings, Hypertectic pistons, nitrided rods, knife edged crank, Gilmer drive, chrome moly rings, Yella Terra stage 3 heads, manly valves, Comp cams 294* solid roller, YT roller rockers, Funnelweb manifold, 2 inch spacer, Proform 830cfm carb, K&N 10" stack, ICE ignition. - 0437900210
enthuzed
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Post by enthuzed »

Reduce fuel costs by 15-20% & cut emissions by 1/3rd...
Increase engine performance & prolong engine life...
How?
Click the website button below & watch the 3 minute video.
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