Austarion

hi guys iv got a new full rebuilt forged 4g63 motor twincam hks cams turbo ect in my starion

what should it feel like when i drive it slugish or tough??

iv got boost set at 7 psi and rev limit set at 6300rpm for the first 500km
then ill put 10psi and 7000rpm for the next 500km is this right

when i give the pedal a push it frys the wheels physco makes good power at 7psi and only 6300rpm is this normal iv been told motor is tight and should feel a bit slugish for the first few hundred km's

but it doesn't it goes real good better than any 180sx or silvia iv driven with more or same power fully run-in whats up with this????

what would the compression be on a twincam vr4 head starion block be with a commetic tripple layer head` gasket be???? and a stainless steel oringed block its built tough for big boost

I think 6300 rpm would be a bit too high a revs to be running in your motor wouldn't it? Wouldn't it be more like a maximum of 4000 or maybe 4500 rpm?

yeah man 6300 when running in is BAD news. max 4-4500 i say. u want to make sure everything has bedded in before u go putting that kind of inertia into it....


and yes it will feel livelier than SR's etc as the 63 has a long stroke..

I wouldn't go past 4k and put as little boost in as possible. Vary the revs, don't just sit on the freeway. Drive like that for 1000km. Then retorque the head and drive like you stole it.

redzone wrote:yeah man 6300 when running in is BAD news. max 4-4500 i say. u want to make sure everything has bedded in before u go putting that kind of inertia into it....


and yes it will feel livelier than SR's etc as the 63 has a long stroke..

oh ok bigger stroke hey my builder just said dont be to nasty it revs to 7200 so i thought id back it of a twinkle

just set redline to 4500rpm for say 500km lets see how it goes

1000 ks of around 4500rpm up and down will be fine .

dont drive it like a girl , have you ever seen any race engine being driven like its wearing nappy's............... once cmas are run in a oil has been drained pump it , if you dont the first real time you do it will not know what hit it

The main reason for the "run in" process is to get the piston rings to set correctly. This is for optimal sealing against the cylinder wall for maximum compression and minimal blow by.

There are many theories about how to do this best, the procedure differs a little depending on whether it is a standard engine or a race engine.

First start, run it on a high idle until the oil is warm. Then run it on different loads and rpms. Do not rev past appr 5000rpm. Also try to do some acceleration/deceleration runs. Accelerate on appr. 75% throttel through the rpm regisster, the let the engine brake the speed down.

Change oil very soon after first start, I would recommend to do this almost instantly after first testrun. The quality of oil is not that important in the first start since you are not pulling any serious power from it at the time and it will be replaced soon. Some engine builders recommend mineral oil for the run in because it makes the piston rings seat better.

The main thing is not to put to much power out of it and not little either, as someone said "dont drive it like a girl".

Check this out, may help you

http://www.amsperformance.com//instruct ... ctions.pdf

to throw some heat on teh fire, I broke my engine in hard. I've heard everything, but my buddy who builds a lot of race engines said break it in like you are going to drive it. I ddi keep off the boost, but I was revving it out to 6k then hard decel and back and forth quite a bit. Rings seemed well sealed after a few hundred miles.

airbats801 wrote:to throw some heat on teh fire, I broke my engine in hard. I've heard everything, but my buddy who builds a lot of race engines said break it in like you are going to drive it. I ddi keep off the boost, but I was revving it out to 6k then hard decel and back and forth quite a bit. Rings seemed well sealed after a few hundred miles.

i have heard of race motors been done the same way with never any hasles i think ill go the safe way ill let it rev to 5000rpm max keep boost at 7psi its enough for the first 500km then ill drop oil move rpm at 5400 for the next 500km first big drive friday night going to give it around 400-500km twisty roads very hilly lots of on off ramping deramping

race engines don't get rebuilt every 200 or 300 thousand kms..

^^^ exactly.
when my dad was running his XU1 touring car in the seventies he used to freshen up the engine every 2 meetings. running in the engine was typically 5 "soft" laps of lakeside or surfers paradise tracks. he also used to build them loose as they wouldnt get a proper break in procedure....

seemed to work for him as he finished every race in the '77 season in 1st 2nd or 3rd......